Danielle, on Park Seed ($2.50) they say Limelight plants grow to 3' x 3' but on Specialty Perennials ($3.95) site they say plants grow to only 18" tall. I'm confused...maybe Park Seed is reflecting "size at maturity" in zones 8-11. I know my plants didn't get much over 18" but since they weren't in full sun the stalk laid on the ground reaching for sunlight. Anyway, I'm going to order a new pack of seeds AND dig up the Limelight tubers I've got. I'm going to get that lighter foliage one way or another...LOL. Pat, thanks so much for the seed offer :)...collecting the little black bb's from these plants is fun except I drop more than I catch when I tap or tip the flower cluster! Leslie

HELLO AGAIN EVERY ONE, after my post on Sunday I discovered a few typos after I printed my tome out. Additionally I wanted to respond to saydes post. FIRST THE TYPOS-THE MAJOR ONES ANYWAYS: A. When I was talking about using a 6-burner module in a 4-burner range I stated you must " jump small blades 4 and 6 together and then ground them to a screw on the range. Not a big deal." IT SHOULD READ SMALL BLADES 5 AND 6. B. LEGAL DISCLAIMER: "BUT YOU KNOW WHAT YOU GET FOR FEE" SHOULD READ WHAT YOU GET FOR FREE. C. When discussing the procedure to re-build/mount new flat top igniters, item #9, I stated you should put one or two washers under the screw so the igniter sits flat and thus stands straightThe washers should be placed under the old reused mounting flange so the igniter sits flat. The screw will go through the old flange, new washers and into the burner as it did with the old igniter. D. The new flat top igniters will have a mounting flange that sits 90 degrees from where you want the old flange to be glued. This new flange will just sit on both sides of the burner and will not interfere with anything at all. In fact it will probably make the new/rebuilt igniter more stable when attached to the burner. This will be very oblivious to you when you do a dry run as per #6 E. When I was discussing how to figure out which wires ran to which igniters if you got those wires mixed-up I said " the igniter will click, and you will know it is "wire/circuit x" so just mark that on the burner holder. In the next sentence I said plug the igniter wire from burner 3 to small blade 3, test it and you are all done. WELL IN ORDER TO DO THIS TEST TO FIND OUT WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHICH IGNITER ALL THE IGNITER WIRES WOULD HAVE TO BE PLUGGED INTO THE SMALL BLADES AT ONE TIME and YOU WOULD ATTACH THE BIG BLADES ONE AT A TIME, TEST, LABEL(the burner) REMOVE AND GO TO THE NEXT ONE. AS TO THE SMALL BLADES SINCE THEY ARE ALL PLUGGED IN YOU WOULD JUST REARRANGE EACH ONE SO IT WOULD BE ON THE CORRECT BLADE, IE: wire/circuit #1 to small blade # 1, etc NOW AS TO saydes post. There are two distinct problems. One being the igniters, which is the device mounted on the burner which sparks and the second being the ignition module which is the electronic device which produces the energy for the spark and monitors whether or not the burner is still lit. It is very hard to tell from the guybanks web site which ignition module(s) is new or old as the four of them listed, 2 white,( one obviously Invensys) and 2 blue (one of which I know is a Tytronics), all have multiple Viking ranges associated with them. The part I received (PA020042) was labeled as having been made in 2005. However the 4 igniters I received were all made in May of 2008 so I assume these are the new Viking igniters. So to answer your questions: yes, you can fix your Bluestar once and for all using the new Viking "flat top igniters" and Tytronics ignition module. As far as Vikings igniter problem I would say they have it fixed as long as the model you purchase has the flat top igniters. Viking appears to have switched from Invensys ignition modules to Tytronics, so as long as the Tytronics work better or are of a better design or quality then I would thing that problem is solved, although Im not sure if there is a Tytronics replacement for every Viking model. For those of you who dont want to go through the hassle of switching from Invensys to Tytronics, well now you have a place to buy them, somewhat less expensive and much more response( from what some posts say) Guybanks ships orders out in a day or two by USPS.

I believe dogs have an instinct to keep their immediate area clean. Dogs that are kept for too long in enclosed areas may develop a habit of eating their poop, absurdly enough, to clean it up! When you see her eating the poop and scream, she may be linking your behaviour with the poop and not the eating. So the next time she poops, she figures I better get rid of this right away, or my human will be unhappy. You catch the dog and scream, and thus the cycle begins again. Puppy mill dogs may have learned to eat poop from their mother, who ate THEIR poop to keep their area cleaner. It might have a mineral deficiency and need different food (these dogs will usually also eat other non-food items like dirt or carpet fibers). The dog that pooped might be passing a lot of unabsorbed contents of their own food that makes the feces smell attractive to your dog. She may think she is simply eating dog food somebody left out for her. When you come screaming, she thinks "that woman wants this tasty food, I better eat it right quick before she gets it!". Sometimes dogs that do this are bored. My brothers dog will play hockey with frozen poops so my brother will chase her around the yard in the winter (when the birds are all gone and the squirrels are sleeping, she has nobody to play with). The dog starts to play, owner sees it and freaks out, trying to take it away. Dog is in his joy, being chased and having a fun game. Whatever the cause, there is a common theme here. We may not have caused the problem in the first place, but our reaction to it makes them do the exact opposite of what we intended. My grandparent's shi had the same issue. Impossible to housebreak, poop eater. They were going to have to give it up, as they were "snow birds" and couldn't see asking somebody to take on this kind of dog, even for a short visit. Since I work from home I offered to take the dog and see what I could do. Based on that, this is my suggestion: On the training end, literally taking the dog out every 20 minutes. If it did anything, instant incredible praise (your neighbours should think the dog just unearthed a golden nugget for you) and instant treat. If there are any messes in the house, they are quickly and quietly cleaned while ignoring the dog completely. Do not look at the dog, do not scold, nothing. And no attention at all for at least 5 minutes. In the house keep the dog leashed to you at all times. If it tries to wander away it probably has to go outside. After eating and drinking, after playing, upon waking from even a nap. Watch for the dog looking around, sniffing, walking in a sort of figure eight pattern. All signs the dog has to go. Every day with no accidents in the house, increase the time interval a bit (like, to every 30 minutes). Don't forget, go out with the dog and the second it squats, it is the BEST DOG YOU HAVE EVER MET. Dancing, singing it's praises, and don't forget that treat. Ignore any accidents, and go back down to 20 minutes. As for the poop eating. Ignore it until she is doing better with the training (going OUTSIDE instead of inside). No kisses, then ;). Keep the yard as clean of poop as possible, clean all accidents as quickly but as quietly and low key as possible (you don't want the dog to think it is a race for food). Crate the dog only when you are going out, and go out for as few hours as possible. Send a fruit basket to the neighbours. The second you come home, CARRY the dog outside. When it does it's business, be fricken JUBILANT and don't forget that treat. The crate is not to be used for punishment or time out, or for when you are tired of watching the dog. The crate is for when you go out, and for over night. The dog goes into the crate when you go to bed, and is taken out immediately when you get up (outside, pee/poop, happy dance and treat, leash and back in). Their dog wasn't ready to go the whole night yet, so twice a night I got up. If there was no accident in the crate, brought the dog out. If there was I cleaned up the mess and brought the dog out. No lights, no talking (except for jubilation if it peed or pooped outside). I gradually phased to once a night, then she could go eight hours. Now she can go from about 10pm to almost noon, I am told LOL. Send the neighbour a nice floral bouquet. If you want you can add to the above, the second the dog squats to pee outside you say "go pee". The second it squats to poop, say "go poop". Using that technique I can take my dog out, snap my fingers and point to the lawn and say "go pee" or "go poop" and she will. Pretty handy when you have to leave for a long drive, before going the vet, and so on She wasn't a poop eater, but pugs can be notoriously hard to house train and that method worked for her. If your dog is not excited over treats (and many shi's aren't) perhaps you know of a toy that she LOVES to play with, and trade a few moments of playing instead of a food treat. If you can't take that kind of time (by the way, it took three months and she still occassionally samples - but is fully housebroken) and it is causing disharmony in the family, please don't feel bad about giving the dog up. You did what you could, and gave it a good home as long as you could. If a trip outside yields nothing, quickly and quietly bring the dog inside. No talking, no scolding, no praise either.

"C'mon Mongo, I want more than that please. Should I keep the walls with the RedGuard and cement board or am I nuts for not demoing the whole thing?" Sorry about that, I didn't know you were looking for feedback. When I see a failure like that I prefer to demo everything and start anew. It does depend on the reason for failure though. For crappy work, I prefer to demo. If the leak is a result of some other fault, then I can see merit in making a partial repair. Your wall studs look okay once you get above the pan, so in your judgement if the walls are fine you can probably save them. The photo of the northern wall with the tile popped of shows what appear to be uncompressed thinset ridges. If the tiles popped off easily, that might be cause for concern. However, if I know going in that I'm going to try to save the wall tile, I'll try to avoid cutting the existing tile backer board right along the bottom edge of a course of wall tile. If the backer gets demo'd right to a grout line and new backer gets filled in to that spot, there will be a grout line right over a seam in the backer board. The grout on that line may be more prone to cracking. What a mess. Good luck with it!