Kitchen hood - baffles or not and effect on air movement and noise
sidpost
8 years ago
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friedajune
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Mesh vs Baffles for hoods
Comments (23)My Wolf Pro Island hood has slightly sloped baffles (circa 20 degrees -- the baffle assemblies are out right now being cleaned, so direct measurement would be difficult). They do successfully drain toward capture devices on the sides, but we don't generate enough grease, even over a year, to cause more than a teaspoon of puddle. Otherwise, the baffles retain a film of grease (perhaps mostly peanut oil in the area of the induction wok). Commercial hoods use larger containers due to their high duty use and the typically greasy products being cooked under them. Using a commercial hood in a room with an eight-foot ceiling would require some care to purchase and fit a suitable one. Normally they are set at a seven foot aperture height. See Greenheck for better information. Commercial hoods usually have lights inside, but the ones I've seen use incandescent bulb lamps in wire cages. They are also equipped with sprinkler heads. However ..., there are ventilation companies visible on the web (at least when I looked in 2008 before the last Fed induced economic collapse occurred) that build to order and some concession to residential function is within the realm of fabrication. Also, such residential hood custom fabricators as Modern-Aire may be able to construct whatever design you wish for. There may be a premium. :) Frankly, I don't think that the NFPA-required greater than 45-degrees slope is necessary for home use. All commercial hood ventilation systems that I've seen or know about use roof mounted fans in upblast housings. The motors used are typical induction motors, and should work with any controller suitable for their current rating. (I prefer continuously variable myself.) In a commercial setting where the exhaust hoods vs. the MUA are balanced for a fixed flow rate, all the exhaust and intake fans may be single speed (on/off). kas...See MoreNeed Advice - Kitchen Hood/Makeup Air
Comments (42)Any time the flow of air (or part of the air) has to change its velocity vector (direction and/or speed), even slightly, work is done on the air, and this requires either heating or force times distance. Pressure is force over area. Velocity change occurs not only when a duct bends, but when there is turbulence in the duct or at the duct walls, or when the air is forced through a filter, around baffles, etc. Thus, there are many ways that pressure drops occur along a flow path. If not, one could blow through a straw without having to build up pressure in one's mouth. I use a large (three-foot-square) vaned ceiling diffuser to introduce MUA into a hallway adjunct to the kitchen. The diffuser is about 18 feet from the edge of the hood. This configuration was the best option relative to where I could take the air from the roof area. It is my expectation that by the time the air gets to the vicinity of the hood it is flowing relatively smoothly and low in velocity due to the size and length of the hall. Certainly other approaches would work for other kitchens depending on where the air is taken from and how a house is architected. Test kitchens use a porous diffuser panel in an adjacent wall to the hood under test. I am sure that from a functional point of view, MUA flowing out from enough toe-kick area would also work, so long as it wasn't somehow directed at the stove. For example, if a cooktop were on an island, and the entire toe-kick area were grilled using a set of registers, the MUA would flow out and then up in a way that did not disturb the rising effluent from the pans. Even down flow behind a refrigerator can work if the path behind and underneath the refrigerator is relatively open (several times the area of the supplying duct.) Never forget that perfect is the enemy of good enough, and what we are trying to accomplish is good enough capture of grease, moisture, and odor. Good enough is also user dependent, so not everyone needs to put up with the compromises that a nearly perfect MUA system would impose on a house. So, my best advice is to find a way to introduce the air that doesn't blow at the cooking zone and disturb the natural rise of the cooking effluent. kas...See Morerangehood baffle orientation - effectiveness and noise
Comments (5)Furnaces often are sized to deal with house air leakage and thermal conduction and radiation to the outside, but not hundreds of CFM being pulled through the house. Deliberate heating of the MUA will be desirable in Alberta. There are several rules of thumb for sizing hood air flow,: IMC linear footage, appliance distributor BTUs, and Greenheck method air velocity. The first and last are addressed in Greenheck's Kitchen Ventilation Systems Application and Design Guide, KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf, which can be found at Greenheck's web site. I recommend it as a good background introduction. I prefer air velocity (equivalent to specific flow rate -- CFM/sq. ft.) because it relates directly to the ability of a hood baffle system to contain the plume and not allow it to reflect out. However, it is based on measurements of plume velocities, which themselves derive from hot surface temperatures plus hot rising gas combustion products (in the case of gas cooktops), so there is an indirect relationship to BTUs/hr. A plume has momentum, and will reflect off of surfaces it hits as it rises. A plume's maximum velocity can exceed 3 ft/sec (180 ft/min) for gas cooking, a bit less for induction cooking. One wants the resultant velocity vector after reflection (plume plus entrained hood air) to be pointed toward the baffle gaps. If the average air velocity at the hood aperture is 90 ft/min, the velocity in the gaps will be in the ballpark of 180 ft/min (for apertures filled with baffles), and my intuition, as well as experience with my hood, suggests that this will be sufficient to ensure containment of the plume captured by the hood aperture. There is a second, more subtle requirement for enough velocity through the baffles to ensure extraction of the larger particle size end of the grease aerosol spectrum. However, that is an aerodynamic issue that we can only depend on the manufacturer to make recommendations about. Usually, residential systems do not deposit much grease in the ducting over their lifetimes so this is less of an issue than for commercial systems. In the case of a deliberate reflector system directing the plume toward the baffles, I have no direct information. (But see my response to http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3938774/best-by-broan-hood-classico-vs-centro?n=5.) What I expect dominates the containment process is keeping the effluent heading toward the baffles and then ensuring that at the baffles there is no reflection velocity (magnitude and direction) that allows escape from capture. Ideally, hoods should overlap the cooking area because the cooking plumes expand as they rise. This has to be achieved in the front-to-back direction also, particularly when the cooktop is on an island or peninsula. There are numerous threads here that discuss this. For example, for a 2.2 foot deep by 3.5 ft wide aperture (7.7 sq. ft.) befitting an island application, my recommendation would be 700 CFM actual, or 1000 CFM rated. Used with a smaller hood, this flow rate might (!) eke out some virtual added aperture size by aiding capture of plume components just missing the physical aperture. Also, it is important (see numerous threads where this is addressed) to not confuse required/desired/recommended actual flow rate with blower rated flow rate. For your 6 sq. ft. aperture example, the desired actual is 540 CFM, but the recommended rated flow rate is 810 CFM, which is not that far from the BTU-based rule of thumb of 1100 CFM. Note that rated means at zero static pressure, i.e., the blower is hanging in the open air, not in a duct system in a closed house. The big issue when going from actual to rated is what is the blower fan curve characteristic (loss in flow rate with pressure loss) and what is the house pressure drop when pulling the 540 CFM. If they don't match, then a bigger blower is needed, or boosted MUA is needed, or some of each. kas...See MoreQuiet hood for induction cooktop (and makeup air)
Comments (11)HVAC is OK if your furnace/air conditioning is powerful enough to heat/cool the number of pounds/minute of air you are going to be moving through the HVAC to the hood and thence back outside. This would be the level of designing the HVAC to work with some of the windows open, or to deal with a large house. If the furnace is not powerful enough, you can still use the HVAC to distribute the air. In that case just preheat the MUA part coming from outside. Cooling it might not be worth it. (For pounds/min divide the CFM by 12 to 13 depending on the altitude and temperature. For BTU/min/degree-F multiply this result by 0.24. Multiply by the desired change in temperature in degrees F. Multiply by 60 min/hr. The result is the BTU/hr that must be transferred to the air to heat it by the desired degrees Fahrenheit.) My oil burner is sufficient to heat the MUA through a heat exchanger (radiator), but during that period of high thermal transfer, heating demands from the rest of the house may not be answered, or only intermittently answered. kas...See Moresidpost
8 years agosidpost
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agojust_janni
8 years agokaseki
8 years ago
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