I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess.

Hi TD and thanks. We do have other gas appliances, and still are considering the gas generator backup so I feel that the dual fuel system is still of most interest. At present, one major dilemma is replacement of all of the ductwork, which was suggested by the Carrier dealer with the high prices, and the Trane dealer who miscalculated, waited weeks to give an estimate and did so only after I called them numerous times. They also have not yet gotten back to me with the corrected estimate. Also the latter really did not want to give me the equipment specs. The Lennox dealer has been very responsive. He initially recommended replacing only some of the ductwork, but thought we could leave the trunk lines alone for the most part. So one of the elements, which adds quite alot of expense, is whether or not to replace all of the ductwork. The Lennox dealer would be willing to do that, but it would add over 4k to the cost. Any thoughts on that? All the dealers commented on the adequacy of the duct system after a rather cursory inspection. When I questioned the Carrier rep. further he indicated that he could tell just by looking at a few spots that the ductwork was "too big in some lines and too small in others), and the branching from the main duct was not done properly. Also any thoughts on a good Lennox package? Is the package suggested by their bid adequate? It has I think a single speed (coil? compressor?) paired with a 15 SEER unit. He calculated that would give a 14 SEER used together. I have tried to find another Carrier dealer who services my area with no luck. The only other Carrier dealer is a national chain store. I had scheduled a visit for them to give me an estimate at the very beginning of this process; however, the appointment was cancelled with no follow-up. I called them back to reschedule and the earliest appointment that they have would be mid-June--I hoped to have installation complete by then! THe Lennox dealer said that had previously offered Carrier, but that the distribution center for our area was so unresponsive that they had many concerns about dealing with them because they had problems obtaining parts in a timely manner. The Carrier dealer also said that the distribution center did not carry some equipment such as the Carrier 14 SEER heat pump. Unfortunately, we live in a small town, and even the dealers from whom I am receiving estimates are in other surrounding towns--no one competent in our community! Thanks again for all of your help. Regards, Beth

tigerdunes, Thanks for your input. I posted some incorrect info on option 2. The correct coil should be: CNPHP3117ATA with the 58CVA070-12 Infinity VS gas furnace instead of: CSPHP3017ATA HI-EFF R410A Evaporator coil. Regarding option with with AC instead of a HP, I have this information: 58MVC060 95% VS furnace 24APA524 15 SEER CSPHP2112ATA evap coil inf t'stat $6847 before C&R ($4647 after C&R) So the AC option is about $150-$300 less than the HP options, mainly due to equipment rebates and an additional electric rebate. From a conservative perspective, I'd swing to option 2... but hate to give up that 95% furnace for so little difference in price! The Carrier contractor says he doesn't see any problem with installing the 90+ in the attic, since the line is only 2-3' and goes down an interior wall. I wish the 80% option was significantly cheaper so as to make the conservative choice easier to make. I'll check on the addition of a pleated filter media cabinet, but am not sure I'll be happy with the additional cost. We don't currently have issues with indoor air quality and haven't had issues with the existing blower motor. But maybe the new system is different in that regard? Regarding the heat strips.. are you suggesting getting rid of the gas heat altogether upstairs and just use a heat pump backed up by heat strips?

OP, do you know how utility rates (gas v. electric) compare in your area? Gas rates USED to be cheaper in my state until gas companies were deregulated. After that, gas prices went way up, and electricity is now much cheaper! My present home is total electric. Before this I lived in other homes in which dryers were powered by gas. I can honestly tell you that my electric dryers here have always been just as gentle on clothes. In fact, some gas dryers I used when my husband was in the military were harder on clothes than my electric dryers here have been. So, IMHO, there's no automatic advantage to either one. For me, utility rates would be the main consideration. After that, the type of dryer -- I would not have one which did not have sensors to prevent over-drying. My present dryer also has cool-down in every cycle, and all laundry comes out wrinkle-free. (I know you only mentioned clothes dryers, but I did want to mention that the gentlest drying of all is air-drying.) Hope this helps.