Welcome to the landscaping forum and the world of gardening, but like Catkim I agree this might not be the right place for you to start your trip up the gardening learning curve. Your space is "designed" and it is gardening, not design, that you now want to do. We tend to stick to design questions around here, but lots of the other forums on GardenWeb focus on the plants instead. Learning about plants will involve learning about their behaviour (which is seasonal where I live, maybe less where you do) and what the boundaries for their use are. They are living things, and have needs and limitations. Just like dogs poop, trees have roots! And just as you can't get a cat and expect it to learn to fetch (OK, the rare one you can!), you also can't have flowers that don't at some point die off and leave you looking at bare ground, dead foliage, or a woody mass of stems. My own gardening learning curve was greatly helped by gardening magazines. I imagine there are several published in and for your area, otherwise there are national magazines that sometimes address your climate. What's nice about magazines is that they address what is going on in your garden now, and they remind you when to do things to be prepared for the coming season. So even if you buy a stack of older magazines at the thrift store rather than a subscription to current publications, try to read the magazines in the months for which they are intended. Gardening is, for better or for worse, a seasonal activity. You can also only buy things in season, such as bulbs or seeds, so making a habit of visiting local garden centres regularly will also help a lot. They usually bring in plants when they are blooming or at their showiest, so you can learn a lot and find things that address your flower needs at that moment. There may be specific design questions that come up as you garden, for example where to put trees and shrubs. Those you could certainly get help with here. KarinL

Hello all again: I now have it half full (Leaving a 2.5 gallon airspace) and I am getting the same results. I think that perhaps this sprayer might work differently from the 2 gallon hand carry sprayers. Right after pumping the sprayer, I opened up the sprayer, as if to add more liquid (The fill hole is not the same hole the piston is in...) and there was no woosh of air when I opened it, and It was still able to spray with the same pressure (Even while it was still open). I was hoping to be able to use this tank (or convert it because the Least expensive other option I could find is $90 from Harbor Freight or Northern Tools (I Think they are the same company) for a 15 gallon that I could tow on my trailer. I understand that my total Cost will end up being the same, but since I already own the backpack sprayer I was hoping to save a few bucks, but what I was wondering was the feasability of using a pump. If the tank does not actually pressurize, then pressureizing it with an air pump would not be fruitfull. The Area I need to spray is about 1000 square feet, but I need to spot spray, not area spray. I do not think I would use more that 5-10 gallons of Herbacide in a Whole season, let alone in a couple of applications, so I think that the 15 gallon sprayer would be overkill

There are 3 possible reasons that backing off the coil helped. 1. The coil's plunger has a rubber piece on the bottom that has become deformed. Sometimes the rubber swells out and closes the gap between the plunger and the hole it covers when the coil is not engaged. Take a very sharp razor and trim the swelled out part. Be sure to trim it very level or it may fail but this time in the open position. 2. The diaphragm is bad. When the diaphragm goes bad it begins to allow more (or in some cases less) water to pass by it than the coil can handle. Small micro holes in the diaphragm, plugged holes in the diaphragm or the metering hole in the diaphragm are reasons this may happen. When I said before your diaphragms were bad this was a broad statement. Taking apart one valve and checking the diaphragm may have fixed your problem by removing sediment or dirt that was causing too little water to bleed past the diaphragm. 3. This one is rare and hard to fix but in rare cases (happened to me the other day for the first time in 2+years) the hole the plunger covers has moved up. This hole (in most valves) is a plastic or stainless insert that the plunger closes off. For some reason this insert moves up just a tiny bit. Now when the plunger gets pulled up by the coil there isn't enough clearance between the hole and plunger and the valve will not open. My guess is your diaphragm(s) will fail on you again sometime soon, one day to 2 years, and will need to be replaced. The job is very simple just be careful to not let any dirt get in the valve or screw holes. Good luck, Tom

Texas Extension page on growing avocadoes in Texas. Note for instance: Avocado varieties fall into one of two pollination types, A and B. They differ in the time of day (morning or afternoon) when the male and female flowers can reproduce: Type A flowers open in the morning as receptive females and close in the afternoon. They reopen the following afternoon for pollen shed. Type B avocado flowers open in the afternoon as receptive females, close overnight, and reopen the following morning to shed pollen. In important avocado-producing areas, orchards are inter- planted with varieties of both types to ensure good pollination. In South Texas conditions, the flower phases overlap enough that pollination and fruit set are rarely a problem. https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/farming/texas-fruit-and-nut-production-avocados/