Please help me "Bonsai" my Jade Tree

8 years ago

Hi,

So looking at this Crassula Ovata Hobbit tree today I think it needs some prune when weather gets warmer. It had three branches that almost the same height. So I cut one branch off back in last summer (you can still see the cut in the picture). Since then it has grown another small branch from the lower part of the main trunk. What I want to change is the slingshot look. Also look closer some nodes are far apart on the branch (etiolated) -a result of new england winter. what would you do, cut both, cut one, do nothing, where to cut? any tips/suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

turning 90 degree

another 90 degree

once more

top view

Featured Answer

breathnez

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

Rockdale, I wouldn't prune anything until you are satisfied with the thicknes of the trunk base. More growth above will require more roots, and the trunk gets thicker to accommodate the increased need of moving more nutrients/water up and down the trunk.

Looking to the future of the rest of the tree, taper is important. I would consider the left branch to be a sacrifice- grow it now, with plans to remove it when trunk base is thick enough for your taste (same for the posterior branch).

The right branch is thickest, and you have taper going from the trunk, to where the nub is, to the rest of that branch. Also, this will give you some movement in the trunk since it curves to the right then straightens up again.

The principles involved are geared toward making a small plant look old and large. Thus, a fat trunk with taper, and branching that in general is about 1/3 the thickness of what it branched out of. See this thread for some examples(in the first picture, the jade furthest to the left has the trunk movement and taper I mentioned, as well as the decreasing diameter of branches).

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Comments (7)

rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
I can't help with much, just one suggestion:

when pruning, cut close to a collar on the branch, leaving shorter stub. It will heal much faster and the scabbed part will fall of, leaving nicer trunk. I have done it very incorrectly in the past too, and it doesn't look that great - it will be 'repaired' this spring - the long stubs don't seem to fall off:

Here is a more difficult pruning, between branches, that has been cut closer and healed - I think it looks much better and even better as time goes on:

As for etiolation, not much can be done - it will not revert. Most of us (in cold regions) have same problem, and use supplemental lights.

I have this Crassula ovata Gollum/skinny fingers that has relatively compact growth - it has never been pruned-shaped, so I'll follow your thread for any tips:)
Rina
nomen_nudum
8 years ago
During summer and depending on how you sun it The prior cut ( with the longer nub ) will probably harden off during summer and decrease the chances of newer growth.

If me I'd let the bottom growth stay on and all the single leaf growth as long as possible. In a sense to say allow the smaller new growth to continue growing to help fill in the sling shot look.

Also If your handy with wiring wait until the bring in time (fall) and wire the older growth in the more desired shape you want Tip : I water first wait two days then wire for easier bending of thicker branches.

Tip two : At this time of the year older tired leaf drop and drying is normal inside in your zone I tend to thumb the discolored dry wrinkled foliage off as soon as possible but I also let older discolored foliage hang on as long as possible..

IMO ( if not already ) place in a nice south window, mid window if wide or mid window section if not A. few inches away from window ( 8-12 inches) for a while until it can be bought out.

If you bring outside for summer use a slower transition to help new growth to grow . If climate is like late spring though summer last season don't be afraid to yank it back from outside or move it to a late day sun if things become to warm and dry.

Uncertain of your indoor lighting but lighting could/ should also be used to enhance the indoor growing.

Side note : Not to bad looking on the top tips Rina considering the date stamp in pic and all.
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rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
nomen

Just to make it clear - top 2 photos are 2 different plants; they were pruned some time before but I don't think I have photos of them at pruning time. Just wanted to show the difference between the 'long' stump/amputation, and much more flush one - which I think looks better :)

Edited to add: I did find photo of the plant in photo #2 about 6 mo (?) after the original cut - it is flat on top, but in time, the flat of the cut is slowly (very slowly) disappearing:
Rina
Rockdale (RI Z6)
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Rina: thanks for the tip of the stub cut. But in my experience that it will fall off eventually if give enough time?

Nomen: I will leave the bottom growth stay while cut these two(or one) branch off. If I leave them all on, it will become 3 branches which it was before. (that's why I cut the 3rd branch off in the summer). I got you about the light. I just need to get rid off more plants so that I can move this one to the more premium south window in winter. All my plants go out for summer.

Anyway, this is what I plan to cut. (when weather gets warmer).

The main trunk is 1 and half inch in diameter. 11 inches from top to the top of soil. Other GW friends, please share your thoughts? Thanks a lot.
rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
8 years ago
Yes, it probably will, it will take quite some time thou. Sorry, didn't mean to point out 'pointless'
Rockdale (RI Z6)
Original Author
8 years ago
Thank you ez for the detailed information and the linked post provide me some inspirations. Is this the movement you talked about on the right branch? A couple more questions: How tall should the tree be? Is the a proportion between the thick of the main trunk and the height of the tree? Again, thank you!