That's how my old house was too, but it was an interior wall. Do you think we can do it on an exterior wall (which is what this house is)?

Too bad its an outer wall. I guess it depends on your climate. Where I live on the prairies in Canada I would need insulation in that outer wall. Mind you it might cut down on the fridge running so much! But even a weight bearing wall can probably have it done so long as the wall is framed with a header just like a doorway.

We're in a severe climate...probably best to insulate it. Hmmm.

Did you already purchase the fridge? Our Electrolux only needs an inch of clearance. It's designed to go into a 25" deep opening.

The doors need to extend out past the walls of that alcove as well as past the drywalled wall next to it. "Counter-depth" only refers to the refrigerator carcass/box - not the doors. To allow the doors to open fully, they need to extend out past the surrounding walls, counters, cabinets, other appliances, etc.

You're showing us a front view - a side view would be much more useful. How much of the refrigerator carcass/box walls show? It doesn't look like any part does, in fact it looks like you may have issues opening it - especially where the wall is! Didn't your KD put in either filler or a tall cabinet b/w the refrigerator and wall?

If that wall on the right is much deeper than the refrigerator carcass/box, you will need anywhere from 6" to 12" b/w the wall and the refrigerator, depending on that wall's depth.

You probably saw Erica L's thread, it is on page 1 below yours. Just in case you didn't, here is the link...

http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3693456/freaking-out-about-counter-depth-fridge-sticking-out-past-pantry-cabs?n=100

You should read her thread because it discusses the whole 2" clearance verses counter depth issue. It does seem contradictory. Naming it "counter depth" to me is misleading. For instance, in Erica's case her GE cd fridge specs says the case without the doors is 24 3/8". Now on top of that you need to allow 2" air clearance in the back according to their recommended specs. So how on earth can they say it's counter depth? Go figure!

If you want the sides or "case" covered by a panel or cabinetry, it needs to be bumped out further the the normal 24". I guess somewhere around 2-2 1/2". I'm not an expert, so I could be wrong. But in Erica's case that's what happened from what I gather.

As a side note, is that a wall to the right of your fridge? You need space so the door can open fully.

edit: counter depth is more like 25 1/2" so I guess technically they can say that, but with the back air clearance they say is needed, then it is not.

See my slideshow for building in a refrigerator

http://s182.photobucket.com/user/Buehl/slideshow/2008-2009%20Remodel/Kitchen/220%20How%20to%20Build%20In%20a%20Refrigerator

Oh, and if you don't install it properly - including specified air clearance - it will probably void some or all of the warranty.

Beuhl, that slide show is awesome. I'm going to re post that in Erica's thread as I'm sure that will be helpful. I agree with your advice of how not following the 2" clearance could void warranty. In Erica's case, her "professionals" are saying it's okay to jam it up against the wall! Ugh!