Woodrok; I have a different take. If you had a real cold winter, lower teens, I would not be at all surprised if Moro does not bloom. Blood oranges have had more freeze damage in the Harris County (Houston) Master Gardeners orchard than regular oranges. If your tree has been in a pot for a long time it is not unusual for it to skip bearing and have rank growth for several years after being put into the ground. Souf; I think this business about phosphorous on citrus trees generally does more harm than good. Most of the best citrus fertilizers have 3-1-2 proportions for N-P-K. The scion variety seldom determins how you fertilize. That is more a function of the rootstock. If you have trifoliate or one of its hybrids for a rootstock, high phosphorous is usually harmeful in that it often makes minor and micronutrients highly insoluble and you get chlorotic trees in anything but ideal pH soils. Example: Iron phosphate is almost inert. Meaning it just lays there. That also goes for manganese and zinc and especially for moly. Citrus trees are not tomato plants. A. They don't need high phosphate. Mulching with a good non-wood or non-bark mulch will provide more P and micros than you need. Best use mulch from twigs and a little pine needles. B. If your pH isn't correct work on that. It will release the nutrients already in the soil. C. Check your water too! If you have an old farmed out or deep sandy soil you may need a little extra phosphorous, but just a tiny bit more. If you have heavy clay, you probably have more than enough.

You need to be patient. Citrus are relatively slow growing trees. Make sure it has enough food and water and sun and it will grow at a rate consistent with its rootstock. It is hard to force a tree to grow faster than it wants to.

From what I've read, Moro's bloom earlier in the season. My Moro has only put out new foliage growth this year. The first flush was uniform, like yours, but another flush of growth is starting at specific sites now. I actually pinched off this flush of growth because it's focused on one side of the tree (and I'm trying to encourage balance). Josh

Agri-fos works well for root rot in the ground. It should be available in most good garden centers or independent nurseries. I believe you can do a soil drench once or twice a year. Also maybe put in a trench drain just outside of the mulch circle. You just dig down about 10" or so, about 7-8" wide and the theory is that the excess water will drain from around your tree and into the trench. You may only need to dig it on lower side. It's like a temporary french drain without the pipe and rocks. You may only need it until the tree is larger and the trunk thicker. Trunks tend to slope out and downwards with age. Or if it's an on going issue, maybe do a permanent french drain just in that area and move the water further away to a better draining area.