In order to get a picture of the difference between soluble fertilizers and organic fertilizers, imagine cell membranes as the fabric chain link fences are made of. Soluble fertilizers moving through cell walls might be considered something like you pushing ping pong balls through the holes in the fence, while organic molecules are more like trying to push basketballs through. The basketballs would have to be broken down into smaller pieces before they would fit. If there is no one standing by to break the basketballs down (if there are reduced populations of soil biota to break down the large organic molecules) no basketball parts get through. MG houseplant fertilizer is probably not a good choice. I believe the % of NPK is 8-7-6, or very close to that. Plants actually use about 6x more N than P and about 1.5x more N than K. If you choose a soluble fertilizer, you would be better served with something in a 3:1:2 ratio. 24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6 are all very popular 3:1:2 ratio soluble fertilizers. Dyna-Gro makes 9-3-6 Foliage-Pro soluble. It's not easy to find, but it's the best I've seen because it also includes Ca and Mg (usually lacking in commonly found soluble blends like MG, Peters, Schultz .....), and it contains all the essential elements in the ratio plants need for normal growth and in a very favorable ratio to each other, also an important consideration. Al

Yea! A new garden - always lots of fun. Are you using an existing plot? Soil preparation will be key. Take the time to do a soil test through the state extension office. Hopefully the weeds & grass will not be too much of a problem for you. The first year is always the hardest but as you eliminate weeds and grass, each year seems to get easier. Okay on to your actual questions ;) Tomatoes: I've grown mostly Roma tomatoes because I like them for both fresh eating but mostly for making sauces and salsas. But this year I thought I'd seek out a typical round variety. I wanted it to be a good producer with fruit that is not prone to crack or disease. I've settled on Better Boy - not an heirloom but predictable and a good producer with decent tasting flavor. It is recommended by the ISU Extension. For a list, google Iowa State Extension Tomato Recommendations. You'll find a link labeled "tomatoes" that will pull up a pdf file. There are a few other recommended varieties that you may want to look up. Last year was a horrible tomato year - very wet and cool. I'm hoping this year is much better! As for peppers: California Wonder have done very well for me. As have all the hot & moderate heat peppers that I've grown (jalapenos, serranos, peter peppers, anaheims). I'm adding a large orange bell pepper into the mix this year :) Onions: I usually buy the sets at Walmart. If you get plants through a supplier, they are supposed to produce bigger bulbs. Just make sure your getting the right onion - they are day light sensitive.

Hi daryl. Styrofoam is actually the blue insulation sheets that is a higher density than foamed polystyrene, which is the material disposable white coffee cups are made from. There is normally no ambiguity when people call the food safe foamed polystyrene cups, "styrofoam". But for rafts both materials are possible. You mention "organic" hydroponics is what you'd like. I just thought I was alert you that there is/was a controversy going on whether real (blue) styrofoam was generally a good thing to be using in rafts, and this by the organic and chemically averse crowds. The scandal I believe somewhere in SoCal specifically about the use of the blue stuff for rafts, as the manufacturer officially said it was not recommended. On the other hand, I may be wrong but the foamed polystyrene (popularly misunderstood to be also called styrofoam) has not had such a scandal that I'm aware of. There is a difference in material properties and formulation, as well as extent to waterlog. I personally do no hold an opinion as to whether Dow is simply being a pain in the butt, or whether the large "wholesome food" operation that got caught up in the scandal is somewhat deluding themselves about the use of the blue product they originally claim the company said was ok. I do use the blue stuff in one project where I wanted a stronger capacity and less crumbling. Both materials have their pluses and minuses and both can be used for Kratky or raft. For floating though, if you wanted to buy the blue stuff, check out on Google what I'm talking about just to make sure you get the material that makes you happy. Best luck! This post was edited by PupillaCharites on Tue, Mar 4, 14 at 5:52

Hi lillivewire87: I would like to tell you a little story which may help you. Last spring, I lost all of my tomato seedlings due to an infection of some sort. I have been pre-sprouting my seeds and growing them on under simple canadian tire fluorescent lights for many years, so I thought I would have to head to a nursery, but a friend of mine told me not to. He said tomatoes grow very fast so you should be OK starting them now. It was May 17 when I set my seeds to sprout in paper towels on my TV box. Over May 21-25, they were all well sprouted, planted up into 4 inch pots and placed OUTDOORS. I planted Yellow Italian, Sophie's Choice, Red Beefsteak, San Marzano , and 42 Days. By June 24, they were healthy little seedlings, and were planted in the ground. My harvest was a bit late, started mid-August, but I had a full harvest, lots for salads and sauces, and still have some canned. I don't know what zone you are in and what your frost dates are, but I am in Zone 5a Ottawa. But that experience saved me lots of hassles: daily trips to the basement to water; making sure I watered with chamomile tea to prevent damping off; sprinkling cinnamon to keep fungus gnats at bay; and that most time consuming task of hardening off!! I have lost seedlings to hardening off because I forgot the seedlings out too long. I will not be growing tomatoes under lights anymore. You may want to consider this as an alternative and save yourself lots of work and worry. Good luck!!