The Japanese use a method of developing an open center after training the tree to central leader for first 7 or 8 years and then cutting out the center. The trick is to remove only over sized branches (scaffolds should never be more than half the diameter of the trunk at point of connection to the trunk- 1/3 in vigorous cultivars. Once tree begins to bear you can take out the center and crowding branches. In Japan they are capable of getting the same productivity from vigorous rootstocks (aproximately 111) and even higher quality than the best Euro dwarf orchards. Of course they spend a lot more time pruning.

At some point, usually around the third year, the rose puts up a strong basal break. This looks like a real basal, and not like the twiggy juvenile growth. When it has maybe 3 or 4 of those, the twiggy growth can start to be removed. If they are still in pots, I hope they are fairly large pots.

Which branch would be the best to bring upright? Two are quite long (5-7 feet) with good size diameters but also likely to break. One is shorter (3') and bends easily. There are several others in the same categories. Once I bring one upright I assume I should cut it off at the top of the pole/where I want side branches? I will also cut off all other branches. Thanks! Ginny

First, in the world of Japanese maples, Emperor 1 is not a dwarf. Its popular listed mature size is 15' b 15' but it can (and often does, at least here) get twice that size. Second, one wants to approach pruning or trimming a JM with a very light hand. After 3 years, the removal of lower branches is appropriate but not a requirement. Aside from that, I wouldn't remove anything. It is not mature enough or dense enough to need a crown reduction or thinning yet and the form looks dead on. This is what a mature Emp 1 should look like: Finally, you can remove the stake it is attached to. It is no longer needed, badly applied and is not helping. The tree looks to be planted out in the open so staking to train growth (especially after 3 years) should no longer be necessary. Also, there are dedicated forums here that address tree issues that are better venues for these questions. You will get more and better informed answers if you were to post in either Trees or Maples.