Found the following descriptions at Bay Laurel Nursery in California- BUTTE ALMOND Price: $ 23.95 The most productive almond variety; originated from a cross of Texas Mission and Nonpareil. Well-sealed, semi-hard shell, slightly smaller than Mission. Blooms and ripens just before Mission, ripens late Sept. to early Oct. Medium-sized, vigorous, spreading tree similar to Neplus. 500 hrs. Pollenizer required; interfruitful with Mission, All-In-One, Nonpareil. Available on: Lov MISSION ALMOND Price: $ 23.95 Late blooming almond. Hard-shell nut with short plump kernel. Ripens late Sept./early Oct.; productive. 500 hrs. Pollenizer required; interfruitful with All-In-One, Nonpareil, Price, Carmel. Available on: Nema Also, more reading revealed that almonds take 180-240 days to mature the kernals on the trees. That's why they don't do as well in N California, or even on the coast. Here is a link that might be useful: Bay Laurel Nursery

Here is one I didn't know about. Looks like they LOVE the high summer rainfall, and deep sandy soils of southeastern Virginia! The best Cryptomeria I've ever seen on the east coast (probably, anywhere! I've never been to JP or CN) was somewhere in Norfolk but I doubt I could ever find it again. http://bigtree.cnre.vt.edu/detail.cfm?AutofieldforPrimaryKey=660 Time for those folks to install a lightning arrester for that tree! Or make sure the church spire is well grounded so that it diverts the charge LOL.

FWIW...and only because the thread was already bumped. My coast redwoods saw the lowest temps they've ever seen in my garden. They only had light mulch and no special protection. Low of 6F (-14.5C) last week w/snow before the brief thaw, then lows of 3F (-16.1 C) a couple nights ago in a severe advective freeze with incredible winds, and 8F last night. 8' 'Soquel', several years in ground (5 IIRC), fully established: absolutely no sign of damage 4' 'Swarthmore Hardy'/'Chapel Hill', 3 years in ground: very minor dieback of oldest needles 2' 'Swarthmore Hardy'/'Chapel Hill', 1.5 year in ground: somewhat more extensive needle injury, still 18" 'Atlanta', 1 year in ground (first winter): minor signs of injury on a handful of needles. Would appear to be at least as hardy as 'Chapel Hill' Yes I'm aware more damage could show up later; but from my general experience other than a few special plants (olives are notorious) if there isn't sign of damage in 24h and there isn't the likelihood of bark injury (there isn't) you should be ok. My most tender experimental BLEs are showing damage. BBoy the Azara I argued with you about has about 50% foliar death...whether the stems were killed to the degree that it will be killed off I don't know yet, probably won't be sure until spring. My Escallonia 'Appleblossom' has shown rather similar damage in past cold winters and comes roaring back in the spring, so we'll see.

Magpie, what part of California are you in? Up in the wild you know how big these get. In yards its a little more under control. I would still try to give the fella AT LEAST 20 feet from my house. My main concern is always trees falling on the room your grandkids may stay in. Are these huge retaining walls holding up a 100ft tall cliff or just the standard 4 foot ones to let your driveway be more level? If your neighbors have some it probably grows pretty well in your area. Are they out watering 80ft trees to keep them alive or anything crazy like that you may want to avoid? Naturally the first year or two in the ground you are going to have to water with anything though. "Our soil is decomposed granite, mostly," Is your yard similar to your neighbor's where redwoods grow? Assuming so I wouldn't mess with it. If your lot was the last one and there is some backfill issue you might have to. Once again, what if you find a tree that by the time it is 80 foot tall needs you to dump a ton of xxxx wonder fertilizer in the yard or else it will die. **************** I am envious that you can grow these.