It is probably a mixture of transplant shock, high temperatures during the summer and/or maybe insufficient water. They wilt here too now. Monitor them every other day and water (1/2 to 1g) if the wilting looks unusually bad. If it looks 'normal', you can use the finger method to add water (1g for a new small plant): water when the soil feels almost dry or dry to a depth of 4". If it feels moist or wet, take no immediate action... water next morning (if the plant has not yet recovered on its own by then). Because they are not established, this summer will be a sensitive time for them from a moisture standpoint. In future years, they will also wilt but not as often or as bad. If temperatures will be high or it will be windy, consider watering the night before. But do not go overboard with the watering as this could result in root rot. Water is needed when the wilting is extreme or when the soil is almost dry or dry. Otherwise, wait and see if they receover by themselves. I notice that some do that by nightfall, others by next morning. The finger method can always be used to tell if yu need to water. You can re-check this way when the temperatures change by 10-15 degrees and stay there. Having a good amount of any type of acidic mulch, 3" for example, will also help conserve water and minimize the loss of moisture. NB can be deadheaded at any time if you really want to. New plants will do this because the stems are "young"; after a few years the stems will be able to support the weight more easily. There is a difference between deadheading and pruning though, so just in case, I added a link below with more information. This time of the year, you should be watering -just an approximate guess- every 2/3 days. The amount of water will vary depending on plant size, whether your planting location is windy and the type of soil (sandy soil requires 30-50% more water). Does this help you? Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Deadheading and Pruning

It may need some water or the cold weather (32 or less) may finally be getting to the leaves. I do not see any mulch around the base so the soil may dry out fast if sandy and-or if windy. I recently had to water mine because they are in a protected location and sometimes light rain does not reach them well. But the lack of mulch and your well draining sandy soil would allow the soil to dry fast so check first if this is going on by inserting a finger into the soil to a depth of 4" to see if it feels dry, moist or wet. January is also the coldest month in your area so this could also affect the leaves and finally make them dry out although my aunt in Ocala sometimes reported this as late as February. Scheduled temps in the 20s will "help" dry the leaves out so keep the soil moist the night prior to cold temp dips. Water once a week or once every two weeks in the winter if winter is dry.

Diane, Hydrangea paniculatas bloom on growth that is produced each growing season so it doesn't really matter where exactly your prune - you will still get flowers :-) However, the harder or lower you prune the shrub, the greater the chance the stems that will hold the new flowers will be too soft or too weak to support them and you will get a lot of flopping. Limelight is a big plant (6-8' or more) and with very large flowers. I'd be more inclined to leave the major stems longer and just clean out all the little interior branching laterals. Each one that remains has the ability to produce flowers and that will be a lot of weight on a short plant. The blue flowers are also from a hydrangea, Hydrangea macrophylla.

I would likely plant it about 5’-6’ from the edge of the yard about half way back towards the house, preferably in a planting bed with other shrubs, perennials, or ground covers. This is a large, full plant, typically somewhere near 10’ Tall and wide within 10 years, and it isn’t easy to control size with pruning because it regrows quickly every year but often is floppier with more pruning due to large, heavy bloom heads. You don’t want it where it will interfere with sight lines to the road from the driveway, so not near the road or even close to the sidewalk. You also don’t likely want it marooned by itself in the middle of the lawn or blocking sight lines to the front door.