Should I insulate garage walls/attic/doors?
housebuilding126
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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housebuilding126
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Attic I Insulation Help On New Construction
Comments (36)Lzerarc, I have heard of companies doing just what you describe with recessed cans & bath fans. it has been a while, because for the most part we are foaming the roofline. if ducts are in the conditioned living space then attic floor is foamed. here,it is uncommon for ducts not to be in attic..sadly. epic fail on designer/arch imo most of the thread is about open cell. as per post #4 in which OP specifies foam type. I have the same problem in getting foam companies to install 8-9" of open cell sf insulation. on a few occasions I can 'make' them install this depth, but it causes bad feelings with the company & sometimes my client. the line from the foam company is that it raises cost of install. this tatic to me bears explaining. when adding to depth of foam insulation, it does NOT double the cost. to break it down, the homeowner pays for the foam company's set up. getting truck on site, heating the product, setting up the hoses to spray and prep work. once this is done, the cost to add more product is only product cost. it isn't much more time, as spray foam install is fast. set up has been paid for. to go from 3" to 6" or 9", the homeowner only pays for the extra product, and minimal time to install. this was the discussion in going from 3" to 6". foam co would say...double the cost, homeowner would balk. once the homeowner understood that they would be paying for setup etc no matter if 3",6" or more was installed, then we could start the conversation about true costs to insulate more. as for flash & batt, it just isn't happening here. if the foam company is on sit, they aren't there to just spray 1", when they could be on another job spraying more & making more money. if the foam co can't convince the homeowner to install more foam...they simply do not take the job. now maybe if they worked for a builder & had several houses to do with flash/batt. but in my area, the foam salesmen have flat out told me that they won't waste their time doing flash/batt. IMO it isn't a bad way to go...just getting a company to make minimal money when they could be making more for the same amount of time. I'm 100% with you on no recessed lights. this is a trend I keep waiting for its death! personally why Insulation Contact (not IC Air Tight) are even still produced is something I don't understand. even when recessed lights are to be installed under porches, I have homeowner/electrician purchase only ICAT. otherwise the boxes get mixed up during install & types are mixed in the house. upcharge isn't much per case to go IC to ICAT....See MoreGarage Attic Insulation
Comments (4)OK. Since the adjacent walls to the house are already insulated, what am I gaining by insulating the remainder? My garage is not conditioned (heat or cooling) and as I said, there is no living space above. True, I may keep the temperature swings in the garage itself lower, but is there any real benefit here? Isn't it possible that once the heat of summer or cool of winter "sinks in" to the garage (which it will, albeit more slowly with full insulation) that it could actually them take LONGER to remove the heat (or cold) BECAUSE of the new insulation? My real hope here is that by completing the attic insulation, I would somehow get a benefit to the adjacent living spaces from the garage walls. Thus, I am still not quite seeing all the ins and outs of this. Also, why the blow-in type? Wouldn't R-30 between the joists work nicely? If yes, I'm thinking unfaced since there is no "heated space" to place a vapor barrier toward. Any more thoughts are greatly appreciated....See MoreCovering fiberglass insulation in garage attic
Comments (10)The paper is the moisture barrier and needs to be on the towards the conditioned (interior) side of the house or garage. This is done to prevent moisture from getting into the insulation and ruining it. You can't put something above the insulation that would trap moisture. If the joists are above or close to the level of the height of the insulation, then the best option would be to lay sheets of plywood on top of the joists. This would give you a place to stand and store items. If you have blown in insulation you could clear an area and give up some R value. If you have fiberglass batts that are too high, then you could compress them and also give up some R value. If the batts are too high, then you could remove a section and replace it with a less thick batt in the that area....See MoreShould we insulate outside garage walls?
Comments (17)I would go ahead and insulate the garage to help retain heat in the garage, and retain heat in the home as well. But there are a couple caveats: If you don't have insulated garage doors, you may still lose most of your heat through the garage door. Insulating that one wall around the door isn't going to have much impact without an insulated door. Your garage may stay warmer and retain more of the heat lost from the house with insulation, but it will not be anywhere near as warm as the house itself without being heated. Don't expect that your garage will stay 70 on it's own in the middle of winter. I guess this is the difference between living in a more temperate place like NC and where I've lived in Michigan and northern Illinois and Indiana, but 40s is plenty warm for a garage in the winter, when it might only be a high of 20-30 outside in the middle of the day and considerably colder at night. And where we have lived it has required a garage heater to maintain that temperature. Your cars won't sustain any damage at that temperature, especially compared with the third of the time they spend parked in a lot or open garage while you are at work....See MoreMark Bischak, Architect
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