Refinancing Question
10 years ago
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- 10 years ago
- 10 years ago
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Refinancing house and taking money out
Comments (40)Hi Wierdo, Look at any financial dilemma from a reverse point a view. If your house was paid for, would you spend 6k for a loan to pay off your CC's? Just a thought... GREAT POINT... but, have YOU actually done that? Lets! Imagine you have a $250,000 home free & clear. The home value rises or falls regardless of whether the equity is used. Let's say you have $60,000 in credit card or other consumer debt. (Not unrealistic for the kind of people YOU are referring to.) Let's say you've "seen the light" and have mended your evil consumer spending ways... tightening your discipline and behaving responsibly from here forward. You're paying 8% - 12% - 18% up to as high as 34% INTEREST.... (again, regardless of whether your home value rises or falls.) Let's imagine you are paying 18%* interest on credit cards... (*we're being kind here.... the types you are referring to are usually higher than this,) your credit SUCKS, and the BEST you can qualify for is 8% mortgage* interest rates. (*We're being conservative... there is no more SubPrime lending, and currently the highest rates for ANY mortgage financing are in the mid-7%s... but let's set the hurdles as high as we can for me here...) Let's ALSO imagine your closing costs to access those funds are a whopping $5,000* (for $65,000 total.) (Again... massively conservative. For a $65,000 loan it won't be near this, really.) Your AMORTIZED payments are $476.95/month. Your INTEREST payment portions are $433.33/month. your INTEREST SAVINGS over the consumer credit INTEREST-ONLY costs are $466.67/month. If you *ONLY* pay exactly the SAME as if you were paying ONLY THE INTEREST on the credit cards, you ELIMINATE ALL of your debt FASTER! (You wouldn't be eliminating it on the credit cards at all!) If you pay $100 more (as though you were attacking the credit card debt itself,) it would take you; 50 years if you didn't refinance to optimize the use of your equity... but only 17.5 years if you did it the smart way and used your equity at a lower cost. If you pay $500 more than minimum interest, it would take you; 10 years without refinancing. 7.3 years if you do refinance. Math matters! ;~) Cheers, Dave Donhoff Leverage Planner...See MoreRefinancing Question.....
Comments (2)Hi Missymar, A) No, you are not obligated to the refi at all. You can walk away (call the loan officer to let them know, though...) B) Frankly, you kind of took on a silly exercise... as getting a new non-owner mortgage on your rental (in order to re-use your VA eligibility) would have been more expensiveto you than to simply keep the owner-occupied priced VA loan in place on the rental and get a conventional primary-residence mortgage on the new place. FORTUNATELY the offer to buythe rental saved you from making that mistake... but *IF THAT DEAL FALLS THROUGH*... now you know to leave the VA financing just as it is, and get a regular conventional loan on the new place. Cheers, Dave Donhoff Strategic Equity & Mortgage Planner...See MoreQuestion as I research refinancing rates
Comments (9)Hi jbs, Since that's the case, it seems to me that I'd be safer researching lenders on my own than to put myself in the hands of a stranger whose motives may not be in my best interest. What methods will you use to determine if a retail clerk has your best interests in mind? Why would you trust your ability to suss out retail clerks but not wholesale brokers? Are you aware that retail clerks are fiduciary agents to the BANK (and not to you,) and that ONLY wholesale brokersw have the legal capacity to act in your fiduciary interests (and are actually REQUIRED to do so in many states)? In regards to your comments regarding financial balancing, I'm a little fuzzy as to your meaning. You have assets, liabilities, and defensive instruments (insurance) in your family household portfolio. All of these have an effect on everything else, both individually and jointly in concert. Mortgage financing is usually simultaneously the largest liability in a portfolio, the most powerful aspect of leverage (married to your largest working asset,) with the lowest net interest costs, and the most powerful protection to equity. The amount of unleveraged equity entrapped in your real estate (if unbalanced against other asset classes you may have in retirement accounts, etc.) can have a HUGE effect on delays in retirement, or risks-of-loss created. Trying to structure a mortgage while ignoring how it balances out against the other assets and protective instruments in your overall portfolio can be significantly detrimental. I'm guessing it has to do with my desire to convert to a conventional loan - I know from your past posts that you aren't always a fan of that. Not at all... I have no problems with conventional financing (that being loans that are sold to Fannie & Freddie.) They are just one of many potential ingredients to a portfolio. However, in our current situation of having the best house I can imagine (but still below our means) and steady (as can be in this economy) jobs, locking in a fixed rate while they are as low as they currently are makes a lot of sense to me. We are in our early/mid thirties, so the chances of us staying in our home for another 15-20 years is very high. Sure... in fact, due to the government markets intervention, fixed rate financing not only has no cost premium, it is CHEAPER than virtually all other alternatives. The fixed interest protection is currently basically 'free' relative to alternatives, so no reason not to take the least expensive financing available within your best-fit portfolio structure. If you have a differing viewpoint or that's not what you were alluding to, I'd love to hear what you have to say. As always, thanks for your advice. Hopefully this post explains better. Please feel free to ask more questions if you like though. Cheers, Dave Donhoff Leverage Planner...See MoreRefinancing after one year
Comments (23)Sorry I have been really busy and although I saw this question I have really not had time to comment until now (thanks to a small case of insomnia). There are generally two types of refi mortgages, and lots of modifiers you can put on them. (1) Typical loans with typical closing costs and (2) no closing cost loans. I will give the pros and cons and an expert opinion on them (and yes I am aware that I am proclaiming myself as an expert.) In either case, it never matters how long you have been in your previous mortgage. How much time you spent in your previous mortgage is a reflection of how good your previous mortgage was and should not be used to consider whether or not to refi, it is the very definition of a sunk cost. First, no closing cost loans. Loans that actually have no closing costs will typically charge a slightly higher interest rate, usually .25 to .5 percent higher depending on your situation. The bank recoups the necessary fees by getting these interest rate premiums. A general rule for no closing cost loans is, if you can get half a percent lower then it is time to refi (worth the trouble). The time in your first loan doesn't matter, you are paying less interest for the same amount of money, with no fee hurdle to overcome and really nor does the time you plan to stay in the house matter. Typically you will have to pay for an appraisal and you may have a few other small fees. If you are following this advice be sure that it really is a no closing cost loan and not a loan with closing costs rolled into the loan. Second, the typical loan with typical closing costs. These loans have a slightly lower interest and charge fees. These fees may be rolled into the loan, so sometimes they look like no closing cost loans. The determining factor on whether or not you should refi with a closing cost loan is how much longer you plan to stay in the house (again note that how long since your last mortgage is not a consideration.) A quarter point interest savings are about $246/per $100,000 financed for the first year and drop by about $8 per year. So if you are going to be in the house even a few years mortgages with closing costs rolled in tend to overtake no closing cost refi's. Now for the modifier. You are asking about a cash out refi. Which I really don't like. Banks will charge you extra for the cash out option. You can avoid the upcharge by taking out a home equity loan now and refinancing both loans in a few months into a regular refinance. I don't know the amount you paid for the house, and if it is low enough it may not be worth the trouble of doing two loans over the next few months. But with the upcharge for cash out, you are essentially paying a decent amount extra in interest on the entire amount to get a 30k extra, if that loan is high enough the extra interest fees tend to turn them into pretty crappy deals....See More- 10 years ago
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