DC Metropolitansnowmageddon: how to protect my new trees
avamom2012
8 years ago
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viper114
8 years agoavamom2012
8 years agoRelated Discussions
I dont get it. I covered my trees to protect them from frost/snow
Comments (21)Umm, no. You posted this Friday, April 9, at 12:00 So dh spent about 4 hours yesterday morning putting up wood stakes around each tree and took gigantic, thick, black contractor trash bags and placed them over the stakes so they didnt come into contact with the trees. So the trees were covered Thursday morning. The Weather Channel reports Thursday's weather in Cassadaga as: April 8 Actuals 72°F 42°F 0.42 in. It's not that I really want to make a big deal about this, but consider it a learning experience. I've spent a lot of time over the years trying to convince people that there are significant differences between roses and tomato plants. I've never before met anybody who seemed equally confused about the difference between a maple tree and a tomato plant :-) Basically, while pure water freezes at 32 °F, if you start putting stuff in the water, like salt or alcohol, the freezing point gets lower and lower. Hardy plants put various sugars in the water so they can stand below freezing temperatures. Snow isn't an issue unless it's so heavy that mechanical breakage becomes a problem. According to my car, it can snow any time the temperature is below 40°F. It can definitely snow at temperatures well above damaging cold. To put this in some perspective, I keep a bunch of roses in pots in the garage because they would not handle my winter temperatures outside. When they go out in the spring, they are usually about 2-3 weeks ahead of roses in the ground, and used to conditions considerably warmer. In other words, they are going from about zone 8 to zone 5. They handle freezing temperatures just fine, and I only bother bringing them back inside for forecast lows below about 27°F. That's to give some wiggle room in case it really goes below about 25°F. For something I expect to be fully hardy here, like a tree, I wouldn't start worrying unless it got noticably colder than that....See MoreHow to protect newly emerging leaves on Lychee trees?
Comments (15)Hello nullzero, thanks for the helpful information. Your lychee tree is absolutely beautiful, what variety is it? I have also noticed that the particular microclimates are very important to keep in mind. I mulch my soil with Kellogs and E&B Stone Organic compost, I also innoculated the root zone with redworms, earthworms and leaf litter. I personally feel that wind protection is much more important than increasing humidity because a couple years ago, my Sweetheart Lychee had an absolutely beautiful growth flush in the summertime. Search "My small but dense Sweetheart Lychee". Notice all the bone dry weeds on the ground, San Diego was in a severe drought at the time and I did not mist my tree with water and the growth flush was the best I've ever had on the tree. After paying very close attention to how Lychee trees grow in SoCal, I have noticed that Lychee trees that are grown next to other large trees that act as wind breaks, have beautiful large canopies. An example of some beautiful lychee trees in SoCal can be seen at Exotica Nursery in Vista. Although the trees are neglected and in need of pruning and weeding, the leaves and entire canopy are absolutely beautiful on most of the trees. Some of the smaller trees look like crap however and these smaller trees are planted next to other small lychee trees that won't provide much of a windbreak. Planting Lychee trees next to a wall or house can be a good idea to help with wind damage but we should also remember that the decrease in light may reduce your final harvest. For some of my smaller lychee trees, I'm considering growing them in my garage under flourescent lights untill they have a canopy about the area of an opened up umbrella before hardening them off and planting outdoors. Simon Simon...See MoreHow to protect your new things, and how to let go...
Comments (73)Oak my Christmas tree scratch is about 3' long and right in the center of the room. The floor was about a month old and I was still waiting for my area rug to come in. As I was taking down the tree I VERY gently laid it down on the floor so I could separate the sections. As I picked up and packed each section, I saw the scratch. I could NOT believe such damage could be done by what must have been a branch gently sliding across the floor. It made me absolutely sick. I had planned to keep an area rug down most of the time, but I thought I'd take it up occasionally, because the floor is stunning without it. It's not a deep scratch and since it's under the rug I haven't tried to work on it, but I can say that none of my kids ever did any damage that horrified me the way that scratch did, lol. And there is no doubt that the majority of damage in my house, has been caused by my husband, who simply is not as careful as he should be. I'm glad I was the one that made the tree scratch because it was an early and valuable lesson as to how easily it happens. Because I KNOW how careful I was, I don't blame anyone else for an accident. Madtown, I'm relieved to hear you have reasonable expectations of your babies! I should mention that one reason my kids never damaged anything is that my house was furnished with them in mind. I didn't have any crystal or fragile things out where they could get broken. I didn't have polished wood surfaces anywhere. I frequently watched them play and often took note of the freedom they had because we had wall to wall. They could stack their wooden blocks almost to the ceiling and there was no problem when they fell down. As I think about it now, if I'd had the wood floor back then, I'd have had to restrict an awful lot of healthy, fun activities we enjoyed in the house. Speaking of which, baseball in the living room began when my eldest was two. My husband would blow up a balloon, give him one of those fat bats, and they had a great times playing like that for years. Then he graduated to wiffle ball, using throw pillows for bases. One night when the kids had gotten pretty big, too big to "run" the bases anyway, someone hit the ball really hard straight into my forehead while I was engrossed in a book. It made a very loud noise though it didn't hurt a bit. There was a collective gasp from the four males in the room, followed by all of us laughing our heads off. We all have a vivid memory of it. I hadn't realized how hard the kids had begun hitting the ball, so that night I reluctantly declared an end to indoor baseball out of concern for the windows and the TV screen. There is no question that how you can use your home is directly related to your concern for material things. I wouldn't trade those years of USING our home to the extent we did, for all the money in the world. The years went by so fast, and now sadly, I have the most unwelcome freedom to indulge in delicate furnishings....See MoreHow we protected our ash trees from emerald ash borers
Comments (23)Regarding Imidacloprid Drench, soil inject, or trunk inject. Large trees must be proactively treated, before EAB causes noticeable damage. And if already showing decline, one must apply god-sent Tree-age product until tree recovers. Imidacloprid product must be applied just after ground unfreezes, which is usually April for us in the Midwest. Since peak uptake is needed between end of May and First of July, because Imidacloprid only kills Adults feeding on leaves, and Borer larvae's first two "Instar" stages. So Imidacloprid must kill off all young stage borers, before they reach damaging 3rd and 4th instar stages which Imidacloprid can not kill. Anyone in fear of killing off Honey bees or Earth worms, which settlers both brought over from Europe in 1700's. Must remove any flowering plants under treated tree that might also uptake drench or soil inject. Another proven option is applying Organic Tree-azin and Aza-sol produced naturally from India's Neem tree. Presently these are only approved products available in Canada. All the above only lasts one year, but Tree-age G4 can be purchased and applied by any common tree owner that lasts two years. If anyone would like to learn how to trunk inject themselves, using assembled parts costing under $2 bucks. Just contact me! Know that ALB Asian Longhorn Beetle had been totally eradicated here in Chicago. Since ALB spreads so slow, compared to EAB. Public should also be aware that 99% of Nursury trees arrive today with root flare already too deep in rootball. And require "Root flare excavation" before dug out of field, or installed on parkway. Also be aware that all young trees require "Formative structural pruning" to retain "Apical dominance" completed every few years until age 15-20. And also understory fruit trees with "modified crowns". Enjoy!...See MoreNHBabs z4b-5a NH
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