Trying to save a buck
10 years ago
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- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years ago
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Starting Coleus From Seed
Comments (18)Writing about my past experience growing Coleus: Lighting: shoplight with T8 lights about a foot or two above the seeds. I leave it on most of the time, and gage by how the leaves look. Bleached - too much light. Colorful but not bleached - just right. Time to plant: (for my zone 4) Early to mid February. By June the coleus should be about the size as other coleus bedding plants, or a little smaller. I pinch back to keep them manageable and not leggy. I may stick what I pinch off in soil to multiply the seedlings. When it comes to sowing tiny seeds I don't burry them. I sprinkle the seeds on the top of the soil in a covered container. I have best luck if I start off in a small shallow container such as a clear deli container, then transplant into cells right away. (after they get their 1st set of true leaves or second.) I also experimented last year direct sowing into cell packs. I didn't like it as much. It was too much soil and moisture. Rainbow mix - I loved the variety and huge leaves. I didn't like that these don't seem to tolerate full mid afternoon sun. At least where I had them, they wilted the same time every day. Carefree mix - seem to tolerate sun much better. I wish this was a regular item I could find. I'm hoping the seed will go back in stock so I can buy some for 2015. I've also had good luck with giant exhibition this year. They looked like bushes by late August. This post was edited by fieldofflowers on Fri, Sep 5, 14 at 11:39...See MoreNew planting by nursery in June - zero mulch?
Comments (1)Most nursery's will replace the tree once. At least that is the norm in KC. A red flag goes up when you mentioned the tree is planted 5" above grade. That needs to be dug up and replanted with ball no more than 2" above grade. With that accomplished you can inspect root system and make sure everything has been removed root ball. If potted you will have to separate tangled root system. I would surmise that was not done given the facts of the already transpired events that have taken place. If you want to save your replants you are probably on you own to correct the mistakes that are hidden from view and yes you will have to add 4" of mulch to retain moisture. You are the victim of unsupervised low paid help that a lot of Nursery's hire during the Summer just to take care of these jobs. Here today and gone tomorrow. They could care less. Good luck, Dave...See MoreGreen Board or Not???
Comments (38)I just happened upon this forum, only because I'm now under contract for a 100 year old Victorian home here in town, and thought I'd look around for any useful information, and I ran across this thread. Time to dispel a few misconceptions: And I guess you know all about IRC R702.4.2 that limits 1/2 inch water resistant drywall under tile to 12 inch span? Guess we should not even need that code provision since no one would do that. Sorry, my friend, but that only applies to ceilings. As for the whole cement board/ greenboard thing, cement board MUST be used in wet areas. As of a couple years ago, it's now code: IRC Greenboard Code: The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) states in Section R702.4.2 that "Cement, fiber-cement or glass mat gypsum backers in compliance with ASTM C1288, C1325 or C1178 and installed in accordance with manufacturers recommendations shall be used as backers for wall tile in tub and shower areas and wall panels in shower areas." The 2006 IRC also states in Section R702.3.8.1 that "Water-resistant gypsum backing board [Greenboard] shall not be used where there will be direct exposure to water." As for using greenboard in the rest of the bathroom, yes, it can be, TILE OR NOT. Thinset (and mastic, which CAN be used on walls in non-wet areas) will both adhere very nicely to both greenboard AND standard sheetrock. The home builder wants to demolish that wall, make it plumb, and apply green board against the wood wall, then apply cement board over the green board. I had suggested to the home builder that I would rather put 15 lbs felt over the wood wall, then put the cement board over the felt, but the home builder said that they would not do that. So, my question is....which option would provide the best protection.....wood, then green board, then cement board.....or wood, then 15 lb felt paper, then cement board ? Even better than the tar paper underneath would be using a paintable waterproofing agent, such as Custom's Redgard. Being that it's a halfwall, you're going to get water sitting on top. You need to make sure there's protection for that entire wall (on the shower side) as well as the top. The Redgard would do that for you. We are re-doing a shower in our home. Do we need something MORE than DURAROCK cement board over the framing, topped with our thinset and travertine? Is there a barrier paper that should go on? Cement board is already up, not coming down. Anyone? I'm PRAYING you have at the very least a pan membrane that's presloped and goes up 8-10" behind the Durock!! What SHOULD'VE gone behind the Durock is either tar paper, or 6 mil poly to be used as a vapor barrier. If the Durock's up and not coming down, what you can do is go over the surface with either Custom's Redgard or Laticrete's 9235 or Hydroban....See MoreWould you keep these upper cabinets?
Comments (9)Thank you, bossyvossy and mimipaddv. I really appreciate your insight. As I look at pictures, I find myself appreciating the glass fronts more and more. I don't think our cabinets will qualify as "high end." :) In fact, we had been considering IKEA and custom fronts, but I am not sure those will work given our timeline and the size options for IKEA. Right now, I am leaning toward Omega Dynasty cabinets. Our KD thinks she can get us something very nice for less than 20K. She also mentioned that we could use Merit cabinets if we needed to bring the costs down; she said she prefers Dynasty and thinks it's built better but that Merit is also very nice. I have quotes from Kraftmaid (which came in higher than I expect from Dynasty; is that normal?), and Siteline (21.5K) and Greenfield (25K). Reviews on Dynasty seem to be good, so I can't see a reason to spend more. Best of luck with your bigger window, bossyvossy!...See More- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years ago
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rob333 (zone 7b)