Trying to save a buck
10 years ago
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- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years ago
- 10 years ago
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Garlic Farms
Comments (2)Don't know where you are in Ohio but you could also try Bobba Mike's in Orrville or on the east coast, Cornerstone Garlic Farm in NC or Cayuga Garlic in NY. If you're just trying to save shipping, a local farmer's market might be best if they know the variety since it'll be suited to your area....See MoreNew planting by nursery in June - zero mulch?
Comments (1)Most nursery's will replace the tree once. At least that is the norm in KC. A red flag goes up when you mentioned the tree is planted 5" above grade. That needs to be dug up and replanted with ball no more than 2" above grade. With that accomplished you can inspect root system and make sure everything has been removed root ball. If potted you will have to separate tangled root system. I would surmise that was not done given the facts of the already transpired events that have taken place. If you want to save your replants you are probably on you own to correct the mistakes that are hidden from view and yes you will have to add 4" of mulch to retain moisture. You are the victim of unsupervised low paid help that a lot of Nursery's hire during the Summer just to take care of these jobs. Here today and gone tomorrow. They could care less. Good luck, Dave...See MoreGreen Board or Not???
Comments (38)I just happened upon this forum, only because I'm now under contract for a 100 year old Victorian home here in town, and thought I'd look around for any useful information, and I ran across this thread. Time to dispel a few misconceptions: And I guess you know all about IRC R702.4.2 that limits 1/2 inch water resistant drywall under tile to 12 inch span? Guess we should not even need that code provision since no one would do that. Sorry, my friend, but that only applies to ceilings. As for the whole cement board/ greenboard thing, cement board MUST be used in wet areas. As of a couple years ago, it's now code: IRC Greenboard Code: The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) states in Section R702.4.2 that "Cement, fiber-cement or glass mat gypsum backers in compliance with ASTM C1288, C1325 or C1178 and installed in accordance with manufacturers recommendations shall be used as backers for wall tile in tub and shower areas and wall panels in shower areas." The 2006 IRC also states in Section R702.3.8.1 that "Water-resistant gypsum backing board [Greenboard] shall not be used where there will be direct exposure to water." As for using greenboard in the rest of the bathroom, yes, it can be, TILE OR NOT. Thinset (and mastic, which CAN be used on walls in non-wet areas) will both adhere very nicely to both greenboard AND standard sheetrock. The home builder wants to demolish that wall, make it plumb, and apply green board against the wood wall, then apply cement board over the green board. I had suggested to the home builder that I would rather put 15 lbs felt over the wood wall, then put the cement board over the felt, but the home builder said that they would not do that. So, my question is....which option would provide the best protection.....wood, then green board, then cement board.....or wood, then 15 lb felt paper, then cement board ? Even better than the tar paper underneath would be using a paintable waterproofing agent, such as Custom's Redgard. Being that it's a halfwall, you're going to get water sitting on top. You need to make sure there's protection for that entire wall (on the shower side) as well as the top. The Redgard would do that for you. We are re-doing a shower in our home. Do we need something MORE than DURAROCK cement board over the framing, topped with our thinset and travertine? Is there a barrier paper that should go on? Cement board is already up, not coming down. Anyone? I'm PRAYING you have at the very least a pan membrane that's presloped and goes up 8-10" behind the Durock!! What SHOULD'VE gone behind the Durock is either tar paper, or 6 mil poly to be used as a vapor barrier. If the Durock's up and not coming down, what you can do is go over the surface with either Custom's Redgard or Laticrete's 9235 or Hydroban....See MoreThey don't make my electric panel cover any more - what now?
Comments (8)Panels are typically offered with the choice of cover for flush or surface installation of the panel. Surface mount has the panel projecting from the wall on which it is mountedSurface mount covers will have flanges bent to wrap around the edges of the panel enclosure. Flush mount covers have flat edges to lay against and overlap the wall surface. And the inspector should accept the flush mount cover for all applications. The flush mount is easier to fabricate in the shop. The moniker "Baltimore rehabber" makes me suspicious about parts of the story. This may be a case where the real story is that a disgruntled renter or foreclosed owner removed and discarded the panel cover for spite and the poster, perhaps a flipper, is trying to repair that on the cheap. I do not object to that activity, but I especially treasure the truth. I suspect that most saying they want help here also want to be told the truth. Here is a link that might be useful: Pael mount...See More- 10 years agolast modified: 10 years ago
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rob333 (zone 7b)