Year Round Gardening in Oklahoma
ezzirah
8 years ago
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AmyinOwasso/zone 6b
8 years agoezzirah
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Plant Rotation in a Year Round Garden
Comments (7)I live in east central Mississippi and I have similar challenges. First, do you know your plant families? Brassicas are cabbage, collards, kale, broccoli etc. Nightshades are tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, etc. Curcubits are squash, cucumbers, and melons. Legumes are sweet peas, snap beans, long beans, edamame, crowders, limas, etc. It's the families you must rotate, not the specific plants. I have 9 raised beds in my garden. I use all 9 beds in the summer, but only 3 in the winter. So each summer (April to October), I devote 3 beds each to legumes, curcubits, and nightshades. I plant twice, sometimes 3 times, in my summer growing season in those beds, but I keep the same family in the bed. For instance, I plant snap beans in spring, follow them with crowders or long beans when it gets hot in mid summer and then more snap peas for a late summer/fall crop. I plant tomatoes in spring, then pull them out in July and follow them with peppers that produce until fall. Here's the thing. I don't have room to grow every crop every year, so I make choices. I rejoice in what I have, and next year rejoice in something different. During the winter (November to March), I grow a bed of brassicas, a bed of roots, and a bed of onions. All the others get a cover crop sown in them. I don't need or want three beds of curcubits most years, so I usually plant a bed of cucumbers, a bed of squash, and then a bed of okra or sweet potatoes in those designated beds. I rotate the okra or SPs around from year to year. So...I rotate the three basic families every three years, giving each family three beds each year. Winter is easier, but again, I only plant three beds so they are easy to rotate. I do try to be sure that the brassicas never follow the nightshades to avoid infestations of flea beetles. Confused? It's not that bad as long as you keep excellent records from year to year and discipline yourself to stick with the plan. And, you can always use pots to supplement. I almost always grow eggplants in pots. It saves more space for tomatoes and peppers and honestly, I think the eggplants do as well as or even better in pots. All that being said, I have found that as long as I take truly excellent care of my soil, I can get away with cheating occasionally....See Moreyear round Self perpetuating Garden
Comments (50)Very interesting thread. Reading garden chats is my kind of "porn" lol. Anyway, about the lighting and I may have missed something but you are planning to go with 7 or so 4 foot CFL's and 2 100 watt MD, or hps? I do not believe this will be enough light to grow big vegetables to fruition, in fact, everywhere I have read you need more Lumens, 5,000 isn't going to cut it except for things like peas, strawberries, small things like that. You need at least a 600 watt MH and HPS bulbs . Both of these are important as the HPS is the red spectrum which brings on flowering and the lumens are well over 100,000. The MH or metal halide is what you use first for green vegatative growth. I started with one 4 foot CFL , a two foot 4 bulb CFL, a led light and a two foot 2 bulb CFL when I started my garden. It all works fine for a small area but in no way has enough lumens and spectrum intensity to grow things like squash, large fruits, melons, potatoes, sweet potatoes, you get the picture. So then I bought a 1,000 watt dimable HP/ HPS bulbs with electronic digital ballast and man that was a game changer. Here is a pic of my garden that is only 2 months old. I also use a "Grow UP" hydroponic grow tower and it is cheap to run and extremely efficient only 25 watts to run and has a twenty gallon reservoir. I also have a "Earth Box" which is in the closet that has my tomatoes groing in it. I wish you could really see the angles but you know how cameras are. Also with the heat the MH/HPS bulbs put out you could eliminate that from your budget, .... I think your ideas are brilliant but just a huge huge thing to take on for your first, start smaller and then get bigger who knows you may tire of it. Thanks for reading....See MoreGardening year-round (Temecula)
Comments (16)Have you been to the Farmer's markets in Temecula or Murrieta, KFMDM? Maybe there is a local grower or two there. You can see what they have and ask them about their techniques. Even if they are not to talkative studying the table will tell you something about what is possible. I live on the border between Alpine and Jamul which, according to Sunset Western Gardener, puts me in and around Temecula microclimate wise. My blackberries are doing fantastic for 4 years now. They are "Olallieberries" . We get hundreds of 1/2 pints of berries from a 35 foot row of blackberries on a 5' tall 3 wire trellis. Year round is easier if you get the right varieties and set up microclimates as you all have been talking about...for instance I harvested big heads of good broccoli in October that I planted transplants I grew and put in in August under 30% shade cloth but it was a type I found that won't bolt. Finding these varieties and requirements is a big puzzle and I have only barely cracked into it. For annual vegetables, I don't find that afternoon shade from a tree or building is near as good as full sun with shade cloth...or full sun with frost blankets, and black plastic on the ground for season extension of warm weather crops. Sometimes I have shade and plastic or row cover working together, one by day and one by night. Like on my seed starting tables. Plastic to block the wind on 3 sides and shade cloth on the south side and top to keep the soil in the flats from getting too hot. Then the plastic pr frost blankets gets pull over at night to keep things warm. Depend on what is on the table getting started. If you are lucky you have something blocking the santa ana winds from your garden. Mine is out in the open so , no. Here is a link that might be useful: olallieberry This post was edited by rustico_2009 on Wed, Jan 15, 14 at 17:12...See MoreThe year-round vegetable gardener
Comments (14)I didn't prove to be an efficient springtime, cold frame gardener. Workers blaming their tools - I know, it's a poor excuse. Still, a large amount of air space takes some of the pressure off being attentive. I wasn't attentive enough for my cold frame. Yesterday was probably a good example of a day I could have gotten into trouble. It was in the 30's, cloudy and windy right up until 2pm. Then, the clouds disappeared - blue sky! I was 20 miles away at midday. I remember wondering if I should open the vent in the greenhouse when we left about 11 but it was really, unpleasantly cold! By the time I was back home at about 4:30, the greenhouse was very warm! Still, everything is right down on the ground and I knew that they were not suffering. It's still winter but about a month from now and with seedlings of all sorts by then, I will hardly feel that I can leave the yard! Steve...See Morejohnnycoleman
8 years agoAmyinOwasso/zone 6b
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8 years agoezzirah
8 years agoAmyinOwasso/zone 6b
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8 years agoezzirah
8 years agoluvncannin
8 years agojmichigan
8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
8 years agojmichigan
8 years agochickencoupe
8 years agoezzirah
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8 years agoDragonfly Hollow (z7b,North Texas)
8 years agoezzirah
8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomulberryknob
8 years agoezzirah
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
8 years agoAmyinOwasso/zone 6b
8 years agoluvncannin
8 years agoezzirah
8 years agoluvncannin
8 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
8 years agoluvncannin
8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
8 years agoluvncannin
8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agosoonergrandmom
8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agoOkiedawn OK Zone 7
8 years agoezzirah
8 years agojohnnycoleman
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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Kate OK USA (7b)