Refinishing: kind of original finish on 1880 table? Shellac? Lacquer?
linnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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sloyder
8 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Refinish Dining Table
Comments (10)The guy's suggestion could actually work. Could work better than RAF, even. Skip the steel wool, though, OK? If it's dirty with waxy yellow buildup, clean with naphtha and a rag, until no more yellow comes off. Allow the solvent to evaporate, at which time you'll think it's ruined; it will look absolutely terrible. If you need to cover scratches, select a minwax color accordingly. If you just want to get rid of the dry look, you can use clear mixwax finish (they call it natural). Apply with a cloth or brush, wait five minutes and remove every bit you can with a clean dry cloth until the surface barely leaves a streak w/your finger. Rub hard. In 24 hours you can apply a coat of a paste wax, like Johnson's or Butchers. This is an old favorite trick I have used on varnished floors that were worn and scratched, but could not bear another sanding. The minwax adds a very thin layer of it's resin, colors in the scratches if necessary, and gets rid of the dry look. If you wish to use a more conservative approach, just clean and apply paste wax. That is 100% safe and reversible, it just will not do anything for the scratches. If there are bare spots, nothing will help them get a matching finish without adding some more clear finish, whatever that was originally, and spot refinishing is not possible to teach on an interwebz forum. RAF is about as appropriate for "fine furniture" as a scrubby pad is appropriate for cleaning a Corot. Casey...See MoreRefinishing piano
Comments (26)Sorry if I'm hijacking this thread, but you guys seem to know a lot about piano finishes. My hubby, being helpful, has used a myriad of furniture polishes on my Yamaha grand. It used to have a satin finish but now has greasy streaks, etc. I remember once a repairman, who did a beautiful job of fixing a ding from a move, using something like paint thinner for the final finish - along with very fine steel wool. Was it really paint thinner? I am not going there with the steel wool, but would paint thinner get the yucky stuff of the finish or would I be asking for trouble? The piano is at least 34 years old....See MorePlease help me refinish my dining room table!
Comments (6)1. What should I use to strip the original finish > Use a chemical stripper containing Methylene Chloride in a well-ventilated area. Use protective equipment such as gloves, apron, and goggles. An organic cartridge respirator would also be a good idea if you have any doubts about the ventilation. 2. Once the finish is gone, I am assuming it is okay to sand out all of the nicks in the wood? > It's hard to tell from the photos, but the top may be veneer or solid woods. Harden, I think, uses a lot of solids, but most mfrs' table tops are veneered to retain flatness. If it's solid, you are safe to sand. If it is veneer, then, no, only do a light sanding with 220 grit. Consider the dents character marks or "distressing" that you did not have to pay extra for. 3. Do you think this is Walnut? How do I match the finish to the rest of the items? Should I take a chair into Sherwin Williams to have them match the stain? > Walnut does just fine without stain. In fact, stains can muddy the figure and make it look less attractive. 4. What type of protective finish should I use after staining? I am thinking it may have originally been shellac (finish is very cloudy in some areas) > It is most likely lacquer, the most common commercial finish used in the last 60 years. Lacquer can degrade over time and light exposure (like all finishes) and be more prone to blush. What I would do: - Apply two light coats orange shellac. This will do two things 1. Bring out a lot of the luster (chatoyance) in the wood. 2. Seal in any potential contamination from silicone oil (Pledge polish any time over its life) - Apply several coats of a wipe on varnish. A readily available source would be General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal. That is a wiping polyurethane. If you want a more high-brow finish, you could use Waterlox. A non-poly choice would be Sherwin Williams' Fast Dry Varnish. You can brush either of the latter two with 5-10% thinning or wipe with 50% thinning (equal amounts of varnish and mineral spirits)....See More1st peek at refinishing process of vintage baker's table
Comments (30)Well I've stripped 3x, denatured, sanded, and steel wooled. I've got the three small drawers, one large drawer and one bin done. It's kind of a light tan tight grained wood. DH still thinks it's poplar. I think it's maple. There was a vote on the woodworking forum for mahogony but it's not beautiful enough to be that in my opinion. It's pretty, definitely in great shape but I"m still unsure whether to paint or oil finish leaving it natural. I don't think I'd want to stain it. I'm goign to try to take a pic but with the flash it'll probably not come out true to it's color....See Morelinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agosloyder
8 years agolinnea56 (zone 5b Chicago)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoklem1
8 years ago
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