Let me just add a bit of “traditionalist history” here. Large apron front sinks had a functionality that goes beyond a typical basin sink. Farm house sinks tend to be deeper than a modern sink. They are typically wider, as others have said, they enable you to wash large pots, pans, cooking sheets, and even the baby. in the old days, there weren’t dishwashers, indoor plumbing, or for that matter hot water heaters. These large sinks, and the materials they were made from allowed water that was hand drawn from wells, rivers and streams to be boiled and heated. The materials those sinks were made from insulated that hot water, keeping it hot. The depth of the sink allowed it to become a “cleaner” place to spritz up with hot water, rather than drawing multiple buckets to handle a tub. As most in the old days were people of modest means, and even today farmers aren’t millionaires, protective elements were often incorporated into the designs and functionality of these sinks. The apron, by its nature and design, served the purpose of directing spilled or splashed water away from cabinets, drawer fronts, and doors on the surrounding cabinetry, which was often more expensive and more difficult to replace or repair than the floor. So, aside from the aesthetics, and given the expense and composition of the materials, laminates, and finishes on modern cabinetry, the apron front does help in preserving your cabinetry...

great advice, just a little comment. You can always google and hit the "images" link. Looks at lots of images so you get a real sense of "normal". Also, think of this. Normal succulents grow in lots of sun and some heat (mostly), so they grow in tight rosettes so that the leaves shade/protect each other and huddle together to conserve water and energy and cooler air. If your plant is spreading it's leaves apart, so that light, and your eyes, can go into all it's nooks and crannies, that is generally not normal and =etoliation. A bare stem on older growth is usually normal too....and will harden or brown up in response to the exposure. Sometimes this kind of thinking things through can really help you get a feel for things, so you don't always need to rely on technical wordy influences. Wordy advice is awesome when you're learning, but I love that feeling when you can feel your plants:-) I really I think that is at the heart of why we crave succulents.

I would suggest planting your hydrangeas in the garden and watching to see what color the blooms are in that spot. Hydrangea colors can be very variable depending many factors. Color can depend on soil, sun exposure, ph of soil and the genetics of the plant. I propagate hundreds each season and I can plant a clone of a plant in two different spots in the garden and get different colored blooms. You can chose to try to control the color but it is a challenging pursuit. Most change colors depending on the age of the bloom - almost like magic. To me the charm of the plant is this property. Some will change slowly and others seem to change daily. I have one Ayesha that is blue while a clone of the same plant is pink although it is only about 30 feet away from the mother plant. If the color is really important to you then you should buy the plant from a grower near your location with a guarantee that the plant can be returned if not as advertised. If you buy your plant from a box store, then there is no way to be sure that the color will be as listed on the tag. Potted florist hydrangeas bought in grocery stores and box have been grown for a particular color - most potting soils will produce pink blooms, I guess they sell better, and when they are planted in the garden they can turn blue. Most hydrangeas eventually turn blue in my garden under the canopy of fir trees while under the maples in the front garden, there are more pinks. Some plants are listed as 'not dependent on ph of soil for color' or something like that and those may be better if you have to have a specific color in mind.

coneflower is a large group .. and you just have to find the right one for z5 .. and it will last a long time ... if you can join a local garden club.. and take some of their local june/july garden tours.... i bet you will find a longer lived coneflower that will thrive in your area ... and you might even find someone who will rip one right out of the garden.. and hand it to you ... eventually .... you will learn to deal with your clay ... and once you do... it will not limit your plant selections ... it might take a decade or two.. lol ... and again.. the garden tour will probably lead you to peeps with similar soil ... and you can learn how to deal with it ... ken