I see I am the odd one out, but if it were me, I would likely not delay the completion of the project over 2" *unless* it would make me crazy every time I looked at it. To me, as long as the valves/spout/etc. are aligned, I don't think 2" off center with the tub drain will be that noticeable. I am sure it is very obvious to you right now, but in the context of the finished bathroom, will you really care? Every house has its quirks, and this could just be one of yours'. I should note that I tend to be very picky in general, but I have learned that in a major undertaking like a reno or new house build, you really have to pick your battles. All of this said, if it is very important to you and you will regret not addressing it, you are well within your rights to ask your subs to correct it. But I can imagine that if the original cause of the mistake is hard to determine (was it the plumber? the architect? the GC?) you may find yourself with a longer delay while the team decides who is truly at fault and should pay the costs. Good luck!

I think it depends on what you mean by "fixtures." Toilets, tubs, etc. are probably the same as anywhere. Faucets - that's a different story. Many of the brands manufacture special faucets just for HD and Lowes. They may look the same, but the model number will be very slightly different, and often the "innards" are different. Plastic, rather than brass, etc. They may work fine, but they are not the same quality. The prices will be low, and many (most?) people shopping there are unaware of the differences, and probably don't care. If you see a faucet at HD you like, look on the web and check the model numbers. There may be one number or letter different. Your realtor may be wiser than most...

If you do decide to remove the cast iron, rent a chain breaker. Start at the top and work down. The cast iron is heavy and if it falls on you that wont be good. If the chain wont fit around the pipe than use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel and definitely wear breathing protection and expect a lot of dust. The angle grinder works fine just not as fast as a chain breaker. Reciprocating saw, even diamond blades are worthless on cast. Also, save the scrap cast iron and galvanized so you can take it to the scrap yard, they pay a decent amount for the steel in weight, I got about 150 for the cast I took in. As far as installing drain lines, get a level that shows 1/8", 1/4" pitch so you can get that right. You dont want too much slope otherwise the water moves too fast and waste stops in the pipe. 1/4" slope is the correct one. As far as PEX, once you have a connection past the main line its fairly easy to work with. Sharp bends with 3/4" pex is hard to pull off that should be near your main branch though. Run a 3/4" to a T that goes to your water heater and to a cold manifold, then 3/4" from the water heater to a hot manifold. Figuring out the connections for the main line and for the water heater are the hardest. I used http://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-fittings/fittings/pex-fittings/metal-pex-fittings/water-heater-connector/p-1340699-c-9381.htm to connect to the the valve on the main line and for the water heater connections. They have connections with valves too if you want that, I didnt need it. I used cinch clamps with the pex, the tool to use them is about 40 dollars. Did not have a problem with the cinch clamps, once they are on they are on. Pros will want something better cause my arms were real tired after using it all day but it was fine for me to use for a big job only one time. Milwaukee has a pex tool that expands the tube and you insert a connector in there then the tube tightens down on the connector. That isnt cheap though. This post was edited by Vith on Wed, Jan 28, 15 at 13:38

romy718, I am certainly not committed to Wood Mode cabinets. I am also considering Dura Supreme. Personally I feel both of these lines are in the same range from quality point of view. I am definitely getting all drawers for lower cabinets. Yes, there are other Wood Mode dealers in my area. Some of them are just distributors of cabinets and then you are own your own. Some are quite far away. They will be expensive because of transportation costs. So I am not even contacting them. I prefer to hire a KD who comes from design-build firm. That way I won't have to hire a GC and it will save me headache of managing all those trade people. This is my first house and this will be my first and last kitchen renovation. It is quite a stressful process and I am certainly not enjoying it. I am just waiting for the final outcome so that I can have a New Year party in Dec:-) If this process gets delayed, that party may not happen. That will really suck. I may consider different switch for pendants, but it is an issue which is quite far away. First I need to find a designer :-). nightowl, When I was composing my message, I certainly did not think or realize that some Houzzers will interpret that she is THE designer for me. She is certainly a designer, not the designer. Anyhow, I am also considering hiring a general contractor. But I still need to hire a KD in order to get the final design so that the GC can turn that design into a reality. I can't save bunches on anything if a KD won't let me buy anything on my own. I hope the next KD I am meeting this coming Saturday, lets me do that. Mindy