Angel, There are two types of blueberries that grow in the south, Southern Highbush and Rabbiteye. There are different varieties of each and if you are growing one type you would need 2 or 3 varieties in each type for cross pollination. (2 or 3 varieties of Southern Highbush or Rabbiteye Blueberry). They need well drained acidic soil (5.5 to 4.5). Rabbiteye tends to be easier to grow than Southern Highbush. If you have sandy or sandy loam soil that is acidic, you can grow them in the ground. If not you have to grow them in containers and use a complete fertilizer for acidic plants. If you water has a high pH you may also have to adjust the water to be acidic by adding some type of acid. We have blueberry farms here in our sandier soil. Many of the varieties were developed in Florida and it will depend on your soil if you can grow them in ground. If the soil has limestone in it you probably will not be able to grow in ground. I grow them in container due to lack of drainage. They do not like wet saturated soils. I think cranberries are a northern plant. Probably cannot take the hot sun.

actually, upon closer investigation, I don't think its either suggestion yet, i'll get another picture for scale too. Soleirolia soleirolii seems to have some height to it, this just crawls across the ground ... and is all in clumps, not 'viney', can't see any vines, just clumps while crawling flat. but the Lysimachia nummularia is close, but seems not quite right This post was edited by mrsray on Sat, Oct 4, 14 at 17:29

Carol, I'm glad, too, that y'all were home when it happened. I wonder what it is about y'all's little neck of the woods that keeps attracting the lightning? I put in my muskmelons a couple of weeks ago when I pulled the snap peas. They have not grown very much in the endless heat, drought and hot, dry wind that plagued us for so much of May, so I am hoping they will perk up now with the abundant rainfall, slightly cooler temperatures and (hooray, hooray!) lack of strong winds. I'm growing Carole, Super 45 and Hale's Best Jumbo. I planted the watermelons to grow as a sort of ground cover under and between okra plants since that worked out so well last year. If I remember them all correctly, I planted Blacktail Mountain, Yellow Doll, Yellow Baby, New Orchid and Tiger Baby. They're all small refrigerator-sized melons since I was afraid we wouldn't have enough rainfall to grow the big melons and I didn't want to irrigate endlessly all summer. Actually, I try to avoid watering watermelons at all after the fruit is sizing up for fear I'll water too much and ruin their flavor. I may have planted Sugar Baby. I no longer remember for sure if I actually planted it or just intended to plant it. For winter squash, I planted carefully-selected varieties that should withstand the onslaught of SVBs: Old-Timey Cornfield Pumpkin. Long Island Cheese, Seminole, Tahitian Melon and Waltham Butternut. I might plant some winter melons if the SVBs take out the excessive number of zucchini plants I planted. We're getting far too much zucchini (who in American doesn't get too much zucchini, at least until the SVBs arrive?) but I wanted to shred and freeze a lot for zucchini bread, cake, and cookies before the SVBs took it out. Now, with it all producing so well all month, I am tired of it. Where are the SVBs when you need them? (Note to SVBs: if you arrive, feel free to attack the zucchinis but please leave my yellow summer squash alone. Thank you.) Larry, I take watermelon (and all other)DTMs with a grain of salt. For me, and I think it likely is because of our heat and our intense sunlight, many melons produce a couple of weeks earlier than the DTMs, which are just estimates anyway. I'd think any watermelon planted now should have lots of time to produce well. Our first frost, at the very earliest, should be at least 120 days way. My soil is not watermelon soil either, but I've always had really good luck with melons in well-amended clay. Even last year with all that incredible heat, the melons did really well. Hi Ezzirah, I think it is likely too hot for brussels spouts to make their sprouts now, unless this week's brief cool spell helps them out a bit. When I grow them, I usually grow them in the fall because the cooler fall temps as they mature are more conducive to flowering than the hotter temperatures they encounter as spring warms up and summer arrive. In a perfect world, Brussels Sprouts mature and produce the most tasty, highest-quality sprouts when the air temperatures are in the 55-65 degree range, or even a bit cooler. When's the last time your daytime highs were in that range? If your weather has been like mine, it was a long time ago. If you plant them for fall, start them from seed indoors and set them out about 10 weeks before your average fall frost. To give your fall transplants the best chance of producing, you would want for your brussels sprouts plants to be about 6 weeks old (and 7 or 8 weeks likely would be okay too), and have at least 6-8 true leaves and be healthy. Starting with plants that old in summer should put your plants at the right age and size to be forming flowers (the sprouts we eat are flower buds) in fall's cooler temperatures. You have to keep summer-transplanted brussels sprouts moist for the first couple of weeks, and may even need to shade them to get them through the hot summer weather and to allow them to quickly become well established. After the pampering that first week or two, they usually can hold their own against the elements. However, you'll need to keep them moist at all times because they are not terribly deep rooted so can dry out quickly. For me, cabbage does just fine even in the hot weather. Some years I don't even harvest it until June or July, but in other years it is harvest-sized by May. I think it is likely your cabbage still will produce just fine for you, but not so sure about the brussels sprouts. This has been a hard spring for cool-season crops since the cool season was not very cool for very long. I still have potatoes and carrots in the ground but likely not for too much longer. I think some of my potatoes have begun to die back this week, and based on their planting date and DTMs, I think it is time for them because they are a pretty early variety. I've planted southern peas in the raised bed in the Peter Rabbit Garden where the onions were growing until I harvested them a wee bit early to get them out of the ground before the hail fell. Then, even though it hailed within a couple of miles of our house, no hail fell here. With the onions though, I think it was better to be safe than sorry, so I'm glad I went ahead and harvested them. Dawn

Wow! I got my seeds! It took a little detective work to figure out what swap this package belonged to, but once the fear of having lost my mind were over and i started pulling out my seed packets and recording them, the pleasure stretched out to 181 packets of a great variety of seeds, thanks to all of you, my new GGF(great and generous friends). you guys are de bom! The assortment is awsome considering that there was no want list matchups at all. Cathy, awsome job sorting our packages, I only got 2 of my own seeds, and the rest was just pure pleasure to receive and record! Thank you. Chris