Yes, this is exactly what happened to my lemon........it actually defoliated more or less completely, only putting out decent new leaves in its second season. It is taking me ages to get the balance just right - watering, I think, was a major issue - and I am still struggling with the nutrient balance (mine is in a pot). Kans, I would also be inclined to remove the ring of turf from the base of the tree - they resent competition and need a free area at least as wide as the drip line (especially in a small establishing tree)....and after a good soak, would be tempted to apply a decent mulch (anything will do, even those grass clippings at a pinch. I think a foliar spray of a specific citrus fertiliser, applied in the evening, might be a very good idea. Don't panic (yet) - mine looked diabolical for its first 2 seasons and is only now picking up - I suspect these trees resent transplanting or any changes to their environment.

Okay, a few comments: I would use pot feet and place the pots on pavers. I would not risk having your pots sit in water. You'd have to make sure the bottom of the pots are raised higher than the top lip of the saucer to assure that water is not able to collect and cause a puddling inside the bottom of your pots. Grass rarely will migrate up the hole of a pot, so, it may be that you could just set the pots directly on the grass. Or, simply remove the grass from under the pots, and then mulch the bare ground, and put your pots on top of that. I think the saucer set up is rather complicated and could pose problems. Secondly, pebbles or rocks at the bottom of a pot does not promote drainage, common misconception. And, your potting mix is very heavy. I would not be inclined to use manure in a container, just too hot. You're better off creating a modified version of 511 or Gritty mix or simply using the Gritty or 511 mix straight. if your trees will be outside, and if you live in a drier climate. I'm not familiar with your climate and rainfall (winter or summer, how much, etc.) Mulch is fine, especially if your climate tends to be dry, but with this very heavy potting mix, you may find that you're retaining too much water, and your roots may start to suffocate. Treating CLM is a preventative treatment. If you see CLM, it's too late. Hort Oils probably will not do much good. Instead, note when you first discovered CLM, then start treating next season about 2 weeks prior to CLM showing up in your area. Your choice of multiple Spinosad sprayings (organic, every 3 weeks, 6 appications maximum done in the evening to avoid bees), or, a twice a year application of systemic Imidacloprid (non-organic, but rather benign as non-organic insecticides go, and easier to apply). Watering - no, it's not okay to have the water hit the trunks. I would change your drip heads. Instead, use two 180 heads placed right next to the trunk, opposite of each other, pointing away from the tree trunk, sprinkling towards the edge of the pot. Patty S.

Imelda, commercial orchardists in Florida (and in all citrus producing states), don't just rely on Imidacloprid. They use a series of various foliar and systemic insecticides to try to manage their orchards. The goal for commercial growers in Florida is to try to keep the trees alive a year or two longer than the average 5 year death rate. Right now, they are rotationally re-planting their orchards, and relying on several pesticides, as well as other measures (such as the one John mentioned - planting less desirable trees around the perimeter of their orchards) to try to stretch out their replacement rates due to death from HLB. The goal for our commercial growers here in California is to kill the psyllid prior to being able to feed on the tree, or incapacitate the psyllid to such a degree, that even if it does begin to feed, there isn't enough time for a potentially infected psyllid (I use the adverb, "potentially" to indicate that we do not have any infected psyllids discovered, yet in California) to inject their infected saliva back into the tree, and thus infect the tree.And, as Steve has pointed out, most certainly would not make it to tree #2, to spread the disease. Also, imidacloprid is a neonicotinoid, and one of the useful features of neonicotinoids is that they are anti-feedants, so psyllids don’t want to feed on trees treated with them. It causes the tree to naturally repel psyllids. Commercial growers have been recommended to apply imidacloprid systemically every 6 weeks, and then use various foliar pesticide applications in between that use different modes of action. Suzi, that is the philosophy behind integrated pest management - use the least harmful management option, first. Only resorting to more intense or toxic management options if the less harmful options are insufficient. You're doing the responsible thing. I was using Spinosad only to treat CLM, but now, I am compelled to also use Imidacloprid as well, since I have over 100 citrus trees on my property, and am adjacent to 157 acres of completely un-managed and abandoned citrus trees that are a giant magnet for all manner of pests. I don't want to use systemic pesticides, as I don't relish eating fruit with pesticide residuals, which is why I grow my own fruit. But, we are in extreme times, and as they say, "extreme times require extreme measures". I am very careful to apply only the recommended amounts and frequencies. I spray my Spinosad in the evening, after the bees have gone back to the hives, and try to spray only after blossom time is over (not always possible with my lemons, as they bloom multiple times). Patty S.

Hi steve, did you drill the holes on the bottom as well as side? Is miracle-glo pine bark mulch at Home Depot a pine fines? What type of potting soil? Is MG perlite mix (small print enhanced with plant food) the perlite that 5-1-1 calls for? If i keep all the plants in the nursery dirt and container for 2-3 weeks, should I keep them in shade? I will be too busy to care for them .as far as water schedule, how often should I water them in nursery pots and new pots?