Australian Brush Cherry W/ Brown Splotchy Leaves???
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8 years ago
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halocline
8 years agoRelated Discussions
brw deck w/ cabots ato gone bad
Comments (3)Sealer does not last on ipe especially in high sun. Don't sand, use my Restore-A-Deck system to clean it and recoat. It will even out and look fine....See MoreCallistemon (bottle brush) dying off
Comments (8)Hi funnelweb, appreciate your reply but Phytophthora is a serious issue in the bush and we have to be careful. On the issue of "is it or is it not" a fungus - and this is a sidetrack to the real issue - Phytophthora is a member of the Kingdom Chromalveolata where as a fungus is a member of the Kingdom Fungi - in the evolutionary process both are thought to have had a common ancestor but took different evolutionary paths. And yes, scientists are still arguing over the above points. The real issue with Phytophthora is stopping the spread - I live in an area with no recorded Phytophthora infestations and yet often work in Phytophthora infected sites and the last thing I want to do is bring the disease into my area. In applying Phytopthora protocols to ensure I am not responsible for the spread I have to assume that every site I work on is Phytopthora free and thus I apply the correct practices at every site to protect that site. Never assume that Phytopthora is everywhere - it isn't. Do you know for certain if you have Phytopthora on your property? Has this been confirmed by the authorities? If yes, what steps do you take to ensure you don't spread the disease to areas that are not affected? Phytopthora can be spread by soil particles on your boots, do you think about that when you go for a bushwalk? The chances of Phytopthora spreading from Australia are remote as most Australian natives are propogated in the USA by seed or cutting, not be Jumbos loaded with 6" potted plants, and even then the soil would have to be treated to be Phytopthora free. I really don't think we need to be putting the fear of Phytopthora into "jeeboo" or any of our other overseas friends who are discovering a passion for our wonderful Australian natives....See MoreWORTHY *W* daylilies 2017
Comments (37)Debra, Whistling Oyster is a tall bitone in my garden, very well-branched and good bud count. I like the height of the scapes (around 3 feet here) and the fact it blooms early in the season. I get the darker purple tones here but I've seen it elsewhere more leaning toward maroon but still an eyecatching daylily. Blooms are about 5 /12 inches so not a large flower. Flowergirl....sorry, I didn't catch your question before this. I do not know the name of the Japanese maple in the photo (there are actually two in that bed) because when I bought them they were end of the season clearance at Lowe's, marked down to just $12 a pot and had no labels. They also had no leaves so everyone passed them by....but I knew their potential and what a steal they were! Five years later, those little bare 'twigs' are gorgeous trees. For those interested in the Windham daylilies, YES....Carl Harmon of Harmon Hill farm here in New Hampshire sells them. Carl is a friend of mine and sells terrific plants (go to their website....they have lots of pictures!). Dan Matzek, the hybridizer, lives here in NH so these are cold-hardy daylilies. Do not be put off by the bud counts listed.....often times they have better bud counts than that. It's just that in the north bud counts are usually not as exceptional as in warmer climates so he was conservative. The Windham series was named after a town in NH in case anyone was wondering....See Morerenter with brown tiles in kitchen... need ideas for colors/cheap fix
Comments (24)Thank you for all of your help and knowledge. I'm pretty new to this and you gave me excellent info and links. You also made me realize that the floor isn't the worst of the problems or the first thing I should focus on: it's those cabinets! I had no idea they were a known quantity. Ick! Regarding the cabinets: the easiest thing would be to temporarily remove the doors entirely as one blogger did, but honestly... I need somewhere to store my stuff. I already have about 20 square feet of open shelving and I've put everything attractive there, and used wire baskets with canvas lining to contain a lot of the less attractive. Even if I were to remove the doors 1) the gross interiors would still show; and 2) one of the cabinets is a deep corner one, which is just not going to look good at all (IMO at least). This post (a link from the brilliant Kylie link above sent by @nosoccermom--truly the best treatment of this subject I've found) is by a DIY owner who just painted the "wood" trim. Easy-peasy! But the white of her melamine was truly white, and as Kylie notes, it would be hideous to paint the "wood" white and leave the rest beige or try to match (matching to tobacco stains, omg whathaveigotteninto). Which leads me to two issues: I really need to use some heavy duty TSP/ammonia/OXY/goo be gone type cleaner to see if I can actually get them any whiter (not a lot of renovating experience, but I'm a great deep cleaner!). Part of the problem is that my landlord has painted all the trim white, which makes the beige-nic-whatever-ness so much grosser looking. I've cleaned them with regular kitchen cleaner and they're definitely not greasy, but maybe there is some level of filth that still needs to be stripped off. That's step one. If they're not white, I need to talk to my landlord about simply painting them white: just the beige area wouldn't be hard to do from what I've seen with the right product and some time/care (flat surface, right?--not the whole shebang including the "wood", and would definitely improve the look of the place. I think he'd be amenable. If not, maybe I could try finding some contact paper or adhesive to attach something that is either white or blue and truly removable. And clean well when I do move (don't worry @nosoccermom!). :) Question: is the "wood" on these cabinets actually wood? One blogger suggests that it is, in that she suggests a quick "helping" fix can be to use this product. It doesn't feel like it, and parts of the edges are crumbling. Even if it's not, is it possible to treat it like it is and stain it (after cleaning etc., of course)? Does anyone know definitively whether it is in fact wood on this type of cabinetry? The idea of adding hardware is great, thank you (@nosoccermom again!) I'm actually headed to Ikea this weekend and they have these pulls for (e.g. two 15" for $9.99). That's do-able! Larger pulls actually installed in the face of the cabinet would have a better "pull the eye away from the horror" effect per Kylie, but I know I can drill and then putty up these when I move. Maybe I'll talk to my landlord about putting in something more tho--if I pay for it he might be cool. They can't get worse. So in short, going to start with the cabinets, since I know that needs to be fixed and is the worst eyesore. As for the floor, I've said above I really don't want to put down any sort of rug, but I have found well-reviewed recycled plastic, reversible rugs from Fab Habitat like this one: (tried to make a collage lol--a link to the product here). NB: often listed at ridiculously high prices--a comparable FH 6x9 on Houzz is currently $329. They're machine made, out of plastic straws. But other stores (and the manufacturer) sell it for much, much less). And I already have an outdoor one that I've decided doesn't fit in my cyan-ized living room--just wish the nap was lower (can you seal a rug like a floor cloth so it has no nap? I bought it for a steal, I really don't care...), but maybe I'll do it :( If anyone has more advice I'd LOVE it! No Anglophile "pro" decorators tho, please! That elitist post bugged me all night :(. Thank you all so much. What a great community! :)...See Moretapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agohalocline
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agohalocline
8 years agohalocline
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agohalocline
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agohalocline
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agohalocline
7 years agohalocline
7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agohalocline thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)halocline
7 years agohalocline
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)