I bought a Janome My Lock 204D a year ago. It was a little over $400. It has worked like a gem, not one issue with it. I had to take it in for "help" on the threading. But once I got that down it has been virtually hassle free, except cleaning/oiling/ etc. For an entry level serger I couldn't be happier. I am starting to think I want something fancier w/ more bells and whistles, but it's not because the one I haven doesn't work well. And this one also does beautiful rolled serger hems. I use that a lot for finishing ruffle edges. My girlfriend wanted a serger but didn't want to spend a lot because she wasn't sure how much she'd use it. And she put a note in the local quilt shop newsletter as "wanted" and had 3 calls w/in a week of people w/ used ones to sell. A lot of people buy them and can't get them threaded, or the tension right, so they give up and let them collect dust. I think that is the biggest thing to look for. How easy is it to thread (some of the spendier ones are self threading). What kind of support will you get on machine use (an advatage to buying it from a local seller rather than over the internet. They usually will help you out for free, offer classes, do maintance for a year etc....) And how well will it keep it's tension. I like having the option of a rolled hem because I use it a lot, but if you don't think you'd use it probably not a "must" have. HAppy shopping! Tanya

I looked up the datasheet for the Lightolier dimmer you mentioned and it says it's designed to work with an Advance Mark 10 ballast (Advance is a brand name, now owed by Philips). According to Phillips, Mark 10 ballasts are compatible with controls manufactured by a host of companies (see the link). My suggestion is to confirm the ballast used in your medicine cabinet and then pick a control that works with that ballast. Installing a dimmer isn't that complicated. Most come with pretty complete directions but if you haven't done any electrical work, you might be better off hiring an electrician. Here is a link that might be useful: Mark 10 Ballast

It sounds like you have a 3 way switch? If you don't then below should work if I am reading it correctly. You should have 3 black wires in your box. One is your main power in, one is your continuation to the garage and one is the overhead light. You need to twist your line in and your garage line together with a 6" chunk of wire that you then run to your switch. The black line running to your overhead light should then be attached to the other terminal on the switch. Your white wires should be twisted together. I still don't understand why you have a red line but if it was capped off then leave it capped off. To find out which black wire is which. Hook two up and make sure your white wires are together as well and then turn on the power and see what happens. If nothing turns on then the remaining black line is your power. If your garage light turns on or your light turns on then you know you have power and the line running to on of them. Mark each wire with a number to keep track and then turn off power and keeping one of the wires attach it the wire that wasn't attached before and then turn the power back on. If the lights don't work then wire you disconnected is power. If it does work then the line you kept is power and the other line goes to the light that turn on.

We need to know what space the blinds are going into and what you want from the blinds . As for the dimmers you need to find ones that work with Alexa not IMO a necessary item for better resale since not everyone has Alexa. If you give us more info you will get more help. BTW not all lighting works with dimmers so IMO adress the lighting once you are in and then get the proper dimmers.