Get the Mdl number of the evap coil. I would like to look it up. What about new lineset or flush old? If flushing it's important that size is correct to new condenser spec. Post back. IMO

Delta, Moen, and Kohler are all well regarded on this forum for the most part (there are always some duds and some unhappy customers). My plumber recommended any of those 3 brands when I asked him earlier this year. We have had Moens for years and have been very happy with them. I don't know as much about American Standard. I'd stay away from Glacier Bay from what I have heard. My plumber recommended buying from a plumbing supply showroom instead of the big box stores, but when I called Moen they verified that the faucets were the same as long as they had the same model number. I bought our main kitchen faucet from the showroom, but when it came time for the prep sink faucet, I bought it online for a significantly lower price. Look for a faucet that feels heavy, and if possible try them out in person before you buy. The installations at the big box stores leave a lot to be desired. That's where a plumbing supply showroom can be very helpful -- and it's a reason to give them your business, if you like to try before you buy. (I didn't have to try out my prep faucet since I just got the little version of the big one, which I love.) If you need to trim the cost a bit more, go with chrome instead of satin nickel. Yes, it's shiny but it is also classic and (in my experience with our Moens anyway) is pretty bulletproof. Check out the faucet reviews at the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: Faucet reviews at Starcraft

@MissTKO2015: It sounds like you are looking for a 36" integrated refrigerator, want to reduce the amount stainless (even consider white), a. Consider this Thermador model instead : T36IB800SP Similar price, but without the extra exposed stainless and can be fully integrated. b. Are you open to floor models? Showrooms are often reconfiguring their spaces this time of year as the new models come in. Just a warning on the budget -- make sure you price out your panels. Depending on who is doing your cabinets, they can get very expensive (>$1,000). I ended up with the Viking (based on a Whirlpool design) because it was a good deal and they have a trim kit available. I had DH's budget dictate to fit into. The finish level on the exposed surfaces is generally better (the quality and thickness of the stainless steel) than other standalones but the standard pricing is unfortunately at a premium (roughly 3.5K instead of 3K for the KA standalone). KA, JennAir, DCS, and others make derivatives of the same base platform at different prices, but not all of them offer a trim kit (extra). I was concerned with the amount of stainless and chose to panel the DW, put the MW in a cabinet (with pop up door), and went with a powder-coated hood.

Moisture between the glass would not be caused by poor installation. Rather, it would be caused by a defective manufacturing issue or due to some type of unusual situation where the normal wear was affected. For instance, extreme variations in temperature due to orientation or something going on regarding the interior of your home. I design and specify windows for homes in Florida almost all of them on the water or close by. Sierra Pacific offers a 30 year warranty on its 2605 finish and 20 year warranty on its patented Coreguard wood treatment and I would consider those windows. Andersen performs well too but they reduce their 20 year warranty to 10 years when on the coast. In my 40 year career, I have had great success with Andersen and SP and would run away from Pella if you are looking for an aluminum clad wood window. Just my opinion based on more than a hundred installations.