Sorry for your loss. I went through the same last year and it does take some time to adjust. Having something to hold onto helps, Hibiscus are generally easy to grow so probably this one needs a good soak in water, a re-pot and some fertiliser. If you're going into winter, now wouldn't be the best time for re-potting. Unless the soil is very heavy, a thorough soaking and then time to drain should see it perk up.

likethestarsabove, where to start? I have never, ever, known a Hibiscus (rosa sinensis) to last beyond 3 months in a wholly indoor environment - even at 5 degrees N. latitude! On an open patio or verandah - yes! Trundled outdoors once a week or so - maybe. So, I want to believe that the subject plant was kept in an area where the light was very bright for several hours daily; and some outdoor air circulation was available. Hibiscus seems to thrive on outdoor air. Over time the plant and potting mix have thoroughly dried out; it may have reached the point of permanent wilt. Pruning back was beneficial; you may have pruned away all the dead branches. Scratch the bark lightly and if the exposed tissue is green, it's alive. If it is brown, or turning so, keep testing toward the base and when you encounter green tissue, cut off the branch at that point. Water lightly - very lightly; and frequently (2 or 3 times a day). At first the potting medium will have to get physically wet before water will be available to the plant itself. It has been done very successfully by putting the container under an outdoor faucet and allowing water to drip slowly on to the root ball. Overnight the root ball had become thoroughly wet; yet very little water had drained into the saucer (gravitional water). The next phase is to get moisture into the plant itself. Again it is 'slow and steady'. It helps to use water that is at room temperature or slightly warmer. Some people advocate a very dilute fertilizer solution - a 'starter' if you will. I do that only after growth is evidenced by buds sprouting - little green 'dots'. just below the cut end of the branch. Also, the processes do not occur as sequentially as I have outlined; but simultaneously. Things can go wrong quickly. That is why a bit of fussing and pandering is necessary.

I have never had a Hibiscus of my own but many years ago I lived in a German household which had three large H rosa-sinensis in the living room. The windows were floor to ceiling and the plants went outside in the summer. So it can be done.

We don't know where the OP is located. Possibly the plant could go outside for quite a bit of the year

I live in the Pacific Northwest. It's pretty cold outside this time of year. It has always been an indoor plant. I will try the light watering several times a day. Mom kept it by the sliding glass door facing west. She cut it back hard several years ago as it was over 7 feet tall (in the pot). It had two major stems coming from the root and she cut the biggest (tallest) one to the soil. I wish she hadn't, but it was growing at an outward angle and the one she left had a more upright growth. She started this tree from a cutting and, honestly, I think it's more like 20+ years old, easily. I know she had it in the 1990s. I wrote in her obituary that she was a plant whisperer and could grow anything, anywhere. It had a lot of leaf drop but seems to be growing again. It had a couple rangy sprouts coming from the stump where she cut to the soil, which I cut back. I tried to cut back to a potential bump of new growth while creating a decent shape and leaving some leaves. I also pinched some of the new growth at the ends. Here are a couple pictures. It doesn't look good. *I'm not sure that my photos uploaded. I can't see them here. I'll see what happens when I 'submit'.

I figured out how to upload. Here are two pictures. In the smaller one I was trying to capture some of the new growth.

As for fertilizer, I do have some Peters Root and Bloom, 5-50-17, on hand. Would that be appropriate?

Apart from the plant being rather tall and sparse the foliage actually looks pretty healthy. I would water as Tropic suggested, not lightly nor frequently.

Having grown up in tropical southeast Asia where I just had to stick a twig in the soil to propagate hibiscus plants I'd say whatever you've done, its going well. The leaves are looking healthy and shiny. The bark does not look like its wrinkled or peeling. I will tell you that these plants can survive long with good care.. Years and years. Its pretty hard to kill in fact. We'd wacked down shrubs and it will regrow from trunks. So don't worry.

Do not let it sit in water as you may encourage root rot. Just keep the soil moist. If fast evaporation is a problem, take a clear perforated plastic bag and wrap the bottom, pot and all. Watch for pests and insects. keep it by the window. Filtered sunlight is always best for tropical plants but with hibiscus these can be brought outdoors in summer but expose it slowly so as not to cause a sunburn. These plants do need to adjust. They normally go indoors for winter.

You know its healthy too when you scrape the bark and see a lively green colour. If the plant gets too rootbound then it would be time to do some rootpruning. For now however, take a smooth stick like a chop stick and poke holes between the roots so these can absorb oxygen and water. Add fresh soil into those holes if you need to.

I'd say wait for a bit before fertilizing yet otherwise risk root burns. In a couple of weeks when you start seeing recovery, add weak liquid tropical fertilizer.

a side note: I don't know where you are located but if you are in the north (my area) tropical plants tend to go into 'hibernation'. They don't exactly go dormant but they do look poorly. Its time to lessen the watering and absolutely no fertilizing. In spring when the light is longer, they begin to perk up and that's when to fertilize.

In florida however, I would be a bit more careful. The laserlike sunlight there is so unlike the climate I came from in Asia which is far more humid (hence more sunray protection) In Florida plants do need to be carefully exposed before being fully exposed to sunlight.

Well I've thoroughly watered it and rolled it to the door where I dumped out the drainage. I didn't soak the soil all the way to the side of the pot however. But I would say about 8 or so ounces drained from the catch under the pot. I did add some dilute fertilizer, similar to root tone, to one of the 4 containers of water I used. It's been YEARS since it has had fresh soil so I thought it might help. Hopefully that wasn't an error. The soil made that nice crackling sound when I watered. Now I wait to see what happens. Do I let it dry out again completely before watering? My house has very low humidity in the winter. I have central heat and air and when it's cold outside the furnace zaps the moisture from the air. We're not at that point in the weather here yet, but December and January are very cold and my furnace runs almost constantly. Any additional tips, and what to watch for, are appreciated. Thanks.

Normally you don't fertilize newly repotted plants. Thats just because if the plant get root shocked in the transplant process, it can;t absorb the fertilizer and nitrogen fertilizers can burn. But some plants have escaped this conditions and looks like yours is one of those. In the future keep in mind that you can add new and fresh soil by digging holes with sticks and adding little bits of soil at the time. and a little bit of topdressing. No need for repotting. This way the plant can continue undisturb for 5 years at least. Its only when it gets too rootbound that I would repot and do a complete soil change. (which I do for bonsai).

RE moisture.. maintaining balance is key. if it gets too dry too quickly - cover the top of the soil with moss, bark or just perforated plastic. Helps with moisture retention. You can keep it dry up to the 'dry to the touch but a bit moist beneath the surface' condition. Don't let it dry out like a cactus in sand. No.

Watch for scales, spider mites and mealy bugs and dry mildew. These are the common problems of tropical house plants.

If otherwise healthy leaves drop off- then the issue is root damaged. Nothing more to do but wait and see.

Have you done some reading on the Hibiscus forum yet? I've been lurking there lately, learning how to keep my hibiscus trees alive this winter. There are some dedicated, knowledgeable growers on the Hibiscus forum. Do a search specifically for info on tropicals indoors, because the forum also discusses hardy hibiscus, and some people live where they can grow tropicals outdoors all year.

I have a Christmas cactus that was my grandmother's, and it's a special plant to my family. I know this tree is very significant to you. I hope you are able to bring your hibiscus back to its former lush beauty as a living tribute to your mom.

Give it as much light as possible.

Jane

They can take dry air ... Though they may not enjoy it. Mine deals with my 10-25% RH indoors all winter long. I don't mist -- never have. Hibs can be prone to spider mite infestations in dry air conditions.

How much to water, IME, depends greatly on you conditions. If your indoor winter temps are quite cool (temps in the 60s or less) and if your winter days are typically overcast, then you should not water heavily nor frequently. You want the plant to enter a dormant-like state. If, on the other hand, your indoor winter conditions are warm and you have a plethora of bright sunny days and can place the plant by an unobstructed window, then deep, more frequent waterings can be done.

Thanks! I had a few leaves turn and drop, then noticed that some of the leaves appeared to be getting chomped on. Pretty sure I had a mite infestation. I sprayed with a dilute detergent solution then rinsed with plain water after 20 minutes. I really soaked the leaves and put a towel over the soil. So we'll see if that helped or not.