I find it strange that so many people are trying to grow northern vegetables following a northern calendar in FL. No wonder you're having so much trouble! I'm in central FL 9B and I grow stuff all year round - but what I grow changes with the temperatures. For example, this past year in the cooler months (late fall/winter) I grew lots of leafy greens like lettuce, chard, cilantro, garden and red sorrel, bok choy, radishes, carrots, and peas. I've got a few pigeon pea "trees" (they live for ~5 years and produce pigeon peas year round. They are drought tolerant and infertile sand tolerant). I've got straight Myakka sand and I haven't been amending. To my surprise, quite a few plants were very happy in my infertile sand. The only thing I do is occasionally add some coffee grounds once in a while or some diluted urine. I'm now in the process of making and charging biochar to long term improve the fertility of my sand since any compost I added in the past disappeared almost immediately (to be honest, it disappears in my compost bin before I even really get a chance to use it). In October I started tomato plants from seeds - now that it's March they are flowering and fruiting. Everglades tomato is a FL native tomato that can perform even during our crazy hot and humid summers. There's also Floradade tomato, which was developed in south FL specifically to cope with the brutal summers and can handle up to 100F. I've got those sprouting now (mid March) so we'll see how they do. There are at least 10 other tomatoes I know of that purportedly thrive even in FL summers but they will not be the tomatoes everyone knows in the north. If you want to grow northern tomatoes, just do it in the spring; most tomatoes will drop flowers by June due to the heat. If you can keep the plant alive through the summer (usually by shading it from afternoon sun) they will start producing again in the fall when temps cool down. I've also got sweet and hot peppers, sweet potatoes, cowpeas, eggplant, callaloo (amaranth), garlic chives, lagos spinach, New Zealand spinach, Ethiopian Kale, Malabar spinach, Roselle, Cranberry Hibiscus, Chaya, and Moringa for the summer. Rule of thumb for FL gardening: Southeast Asian + Caribbean veggies do particularly well in FL summers and "northern" veggies grow well here in the winter. As for fruit trees... stop trying to grow what does well in the north and grow what does well here. I've got a monster guava that I never fertilize or water and can deal with the occasional cold snap. Mulberries also do particularly well - they are basically zero maintenance (no extra watering, fertilizer, thrive on neglect). They fruit multiple times a year (mine are flowering now). There are plenty of other options if you look.

I am trying to do the same with honeysuckle and grapes. Would it help if I tied dried grape vines harvested from a previous location, and now I was thinking of using vines or string to train the vines onto my new outdoor open framed room. Now how do I find the right tree to grow from the center of four lattice walls with 2 4 foot side entrances. Mosquito season will be here soon. should I put the netting on it now and if so what should I use? (Did I just high jack this thread?)

Many plants won't bloom their first year after planting - if that vine looks huge to you now, you may be underestimating its potential size, that isn't huge for Gelsemium sempervirens. If you are fertilizing, consider a low-nitrogen fertilizer for best flowering - water as needed to keep the soil barely moist all through spring. Lime won't help the plant to flower, this vine should be fine in acidic to neutral soil and isn't dependent on alkaline ph.

Sounds like my Eskimo. He loves to chase the balls etc. but picking them up is MY job! He also loves to jump on the bed and drop the ball to the floor and wait for me to pick it up for him. Then there is his toy box - holding as many nearly non-destructible toys as possible - if there is such a toy for a Jaws and Claws of death Eskimo. This is a dog that will stretch himself silly to reach under the bed with his very long legs to grab a Croc to play with, but will stand with his head over his toy box and cry for me to give him the toy of his choosing. Yes, I know he has me over a barrel. At 4 years and 4 months he is finally beginning to mature - as much as Eskies do - babies until the end - but Eskies become very used to a routine, and this is part of his routine. He was also considered the runt of the litter, was pushed away by his mother and beaten up by his siblings - guess he never forgot. But the ugly ducking became the swan - he is one hot looking boy-toy! I hope you have better luck than we did in teaching your pup to put the ball back in your hand.