Warmer fall good for establishing trees?
lone_elm_z6
8 years ago
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wisconsitom
8 years agolone_elm_z6
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
suggestion for specimen tree that looks good winter/spring/fall
Comments (6)I get tired of all my plants putting on their best show in spring, so i enjoy something that appeals at other times. One that I enjoy is Heptacodium. It flowers late, and is very attractive to bees; always some action on the tree. It has kind of cool peeling bark as well as an attractive branch structure. Once it is done flaowering, the red bracts are often attractive on the tree well into fall. Its foliage is otherwise unspectacular and fall colour is just yellow. Hamamelis cultivars ('Diane' or 'Jelena' for instance) bloom very early, in January here, and are spectacular when they catch the afternoon winter sun. In summer they fade into the background with just green leaves, but have spectacular autumn colour. They sucker too, though, but the suckers are just right at the base. Many plants commonly grown as shrubs can be trained as trees. I've seen Purple Smoke bushes that are trees, and I also have a Hibiscus syriacus (rose of sharon) 'Red Heart' that is trained as a tree, and again, because it flowers late in the season, it is always a much appreciated feature. The bees love it too, and the grey branches make it an attractive winter presence. Vitex is another shrub that can be a tree, also spectacular late in the season. KarinL...See MoreRoot Pruning To Save An Established Tree
Comments (11)Lou, I would be very interested in seeing the state of the roots for the tree you dig up. So if you are of the mind, post pictures of what you find. The first Sugar Maple I planted did not survive, so when I replaced it, I took the dead plant and cleaned the roots as an educational experience. Having this stump, and a good deal of research online about ornamental tree production taught me allot about what to expect from my new plantings. Particularly in respect to most trees in containers are containerized, and not grown in that container. Meaning, they are field grow, bare root harvested, most roots removed, then planted in a container, then given a growing season to recover before being shipped out that fall or early the nest spring. This was absolutely the case with the tree that did not survive. This solved allot of my questions as to why I was seeing the pattern that I was from previous years growth. Namely why the current years growth was so much less than previous years. Also taught me that the replacement will not behave normally for at least 2-3 years if not more. As for my own tree, I do believe it can be saved. The ground rarely freezes very deeply, or for a prolonged period, so it will have time to recover some before spring. Visually overall the tree looks good, but I recognized problems due to a pause in growth when it should not have, growth rate did not increase this year over last, growing leaflets paused turned black before growth again resumed after a few weeks, oddities in the trunk etc., and just did not grow as much as it should have. Fertilizer is not a problem, as the lawn gets what it needs, and it does not show any sign of nutrient stress, and I do I keep the grass away from the tree. I have also been working to improve the soil, and now beginning to find a small population of earthworms, along with some fungi appearing after rain. All of which tells me I'm making progress with the soil and it's ecology. I don't expect it to grow as fast here as for you in north Texas, but I'm sure it can do better than it did. It's nice to know what yours have done from a personal experience, it gives me a measuring stick to to speak. Anyway, I for one would appreciate hearing what is happening with yours particularly since they are from the same grower. Hope your others turn out to your liking. Also if you seedly does not change, and is consistent in a variety of environments, you just may have something worth developing. Arktrees...See MoreEstablishing a good worm population
Comments (23)Equinox, just curious as to why you would towards not on the silica powder? As far as the comfrey patch location, well that looked just like everywhere else out here when they were planted. The whole area there got a few inches of manure and few more of fresh wood chips not too long ago. Comfrey loves nitrogen and will take straight fresh chicken manure which is a feat for most plants. It will grow in poor soils though too and that makes it attractive here. When we plant them I dig a hole 2 feet deep and put a cubic foot of steer in the hole to give it a good start sending down its deep roots. This plant will root from 8 to 12 feet deep I am told. Once established they accumulate minerals and nutrients from deep down and bring it up to the surface. A couple other amazing things about comfrey is that they fix nitrogen through mycorhizal relationships and among all the nutrients they produce is B12 which I understand is quite uncommon for terrestrial plants. A drawback is though this variety does not reproduce through seed it will from small root fragments and once established it seems is quite difficult to remove, like crabgrass tilling just spreads it and I would be hesitant to garden much around it as working the ground would likely encourage its spread. I do plan however to try a wide bed with a row of comfrey down the middle. This will be a strict no till, start from seed and remove at the surface to keep from disturbing that roots and try and keep it behaving. I love the idea of having it so handy for chop and drop mulching. Francoise, yes we are looking at many different trees and shrubs. Some beneficial others more ornamental, our plan there is try everything and keep what works :D We have dozens of different types of seeds that are going in the fridge soon for their stratification period so spring is going to be quite interesting this year. You are also absolutely correct on the many strategies note. Much like a compost pile, the more variety the better. I am of the mind of the forest garden and intend to really push companion planting and interplanting throughout the garden and property rather than traditional row crop gardening though that will surely see its place too. Yes Pete, a pony or mule might be nice. We do have quite a few horse folks around though so I am going to make a point of seeing what might be available there and cut out the whole nother mouth to feed at least until we have better ground to do something like that on. Have to say I think of all I have read on rearing worms I relate to your style closest. Benign neglect is my kind of style for sure. The way i see it te more of what I do that is simple and somewhat self sustaining the more I can do and keep going. Otis, see above for probably more than you want to know about comfrey. There are other things like its fantastic ability to produce green material that breaks down quite quickly. A bucket stuffed full and capped for a few weeks will end up a black sludge that can be diluted and used in the garden. Lawrence Hill developed these Bocking sterile varieties and yields of 100+ tons an acre have been written about. With favorable conditions the entire plant can be cut to the ground giving up 5 to 8lbs of leave only to be regrown in weeks allowing for 5 to 8 cuttings a year. Thats 25 to 64lbs of nutrient rich leaves per plant per year. If we use an average of 40lbs every 50 plants will produce a ton of material that can be used in the compost pile, fed to the animals (worms included), made into liquid fertilizer or directly placed in the garden as mulch or compost. The last growth should be allowed to overwinter as they are a great shelter for many beneficial insects and spiders. I have read as many as 250 spiders might winter over under a single plant. That last foliage also helps support and shelter the plants own roots. Understand all of the above is from what I have gleaned as this is our first year with these plants. I will say though that from what I have seen so far I have little doubt in the validity of the information out there regarding comfreys use in the garden. About water, we have a very good well. Our water is about 100' and when it was drilled was measured at 100+ GPM. Our pump is 25GPM used to fill a 10K gallon tank. It cost about $0.35 1K gallons to get it into the tank and about the same to put it under pressure 40 to 60PSI. The tank is close to 500' away and maybe 15 feet of head so i am thinking about putting in a second line as a gravity line for irrigation cutting the cost of already cheap water in half. The one issue we do have with our water is that is is hard. i need to get a test done (we did years ago but honestly I dont remember the results as we mainly were testing to make sure it was safe) to see if there is anything we can do for it. Soaker hoses clog in a few months and many types of drippers suffer the same fate. Other than that drawback though water should not be any issue especially if we can get the material into the soil to hold the water where it needs to be for plants to flourish....See MorePlanting new tree in established pachysandra bed
Comments (3)once a year.. shapren your shovel.. and just re establish the weed free zone ... come on.. you can do it .. lol .. now.. no way in the world.. i would plant in a tree this time of year ... i would .. in the pot its in now ... pot it into a much larger pot [no root disturbance].. and backfill the pot.. so it wont blow over in every wind .. and the bigger pot will keep the smaller pot cooler ... i would then plant the tree in the proper planting time for your area ... in my MI.. it april BEFORE it leafs out ... just because you buy it ... does not mean its the right time to plant it ... also.. i would never put a tree on irrigation ... after a good soaking in.. they simply dont need that much water .. once a week.. insert finger. and find out if it needs water .. might be a month, with good mulch.. before it needs to be watered again .... see link for planting and after care ... or.. just wing it.. go ahead.. plant it ... live and learn ... ive done that.. win some. lose some ... especially if you have a guarantee from the store ... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub...See Moreedlincoln
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agolone_elm_z6
8 years agobengz6westmd
8 years agoLogan L. Johnson
8 years agoMike McGarvey
8 years agolone_elm_z6
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agoMike McGarvey
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agoMike McGarvey
8 years agolone_elm_z6
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agohairmetal4ever
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agoMike McGarvey
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years ago
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