The fact that the plug shows a "whitish" color, AND you have intermittent "popping back through the intake", AND that you can "somewhat smooth out the running" by partially closing the choke, all confirm that there is not enough fuel reaching the engine. The plungers do sometimes get gummed up and reluctant to open fully (and sometimes, not at all). You can try removing the fuel solenoid and soaking the plunger tip in a small container of spray carb cleaner. Fill the cap from the can with cleaner and stand the solenoid on its tip in the cleaner filled cap. Prop it up so it can't fall over. Soak it like this for a few minutes then push the plunger into the solenoid body a few times. The plunger should have a slight resistance or spring pressure when pushing it in. It should pop back out when you quit pushing it in. Repeat the soaking and manual moving of the plunger a few times until it operates freely. You can "bench test" the solenoid by using a 12VDC source (the tractor battery will do) by connecting the body of the solenoid to the negative pole of power source and the wire lead of the solenoid to the positive pole of the 12VDC source. The solenoid plunger should retract into the solenoid body when 12VDC is applied, and pop out when the current is taken away. You might have to push in ever so slightly to get the plunger to retract because in some cases, the plunger will be sticking further out of the body with the solenoid removed from the carb than when it is installed. This is because the design calls for the spring to actually PUSH the plunger valve against its seat with a bit of spring pressure. If the plunger does not "jump into" the solenoid body as soon as you apply 12VDC to it, just give the plunger a little nudge to get the plunger close enough to the electromagnetic field for it to "grab hold of" the plunger. The plunger should remain retracted for as long as the 12VDC is applied. While you are into this carb, check to make sure that the main jet is not partially clogged or varnished up. It is also essential that you have a good, free flowing air filter in place as well. While in this case it appears that your engine is "starving for fuel", you must remember that the fuel is "drawn out of the bowl by venturi effect". If you do not have good FLOW (which equates to induction air velocity) through the air filter, the venturi effect will be weak and so will the volume of fuel. Another thing you want to make certain that the cooling shrouding and fins have not been converted to a mouse haven over winter. These critters will carry all sorts of stuff in to create their condo. This can completely block the air flow from the fan. Overheating will also create a "lean burn" condition (just before everything siezes up).

If the mower was running well before this happened, it's not a "given" that the carburetor needs cleaning. But seeing as this machine is circa 2005, a good carb cleaning certainly might not be a bad idea. It is also important to determine whether the control cable is still secured at the correct position by its anchor clamp. If the cable outer housing/sheath has moved under its hold down clamp, the "mowing position" setting indicated on the control panel will not place the actual carburetor into proper corresponding position. That scenario could mean that even though your control panel setting indicates the "mowing position", the carb itself may be in "choke mode". And even if you do decide to do a carb cleaning, the control cable anchor clamp needs to be checked for proper operation and cable adjustment after installing the carb. Another thought on the situation is that what you are now experiencing is due to the cylinder head gasket having failed completely. This post was edited by mownie on Fri, May 2, 14 at 11:19

OOPS! Sorry archangel2003, I read the line "I am looking any ammo I could use to nudge a repair towards warranty coverage if they get "iffy" on me." and I immediately confused you with another member WHO IS working on (or at least "should be working on") a document to suuport his "warranty claim". My sincere apologies to you for my "jump to the wrong conclusion". Having said all that, I will add that "the best ammo" you can have is to buy only the OEM filters and use only the OEM recommended oil (or buy the OEM branded oil) while the machine is still covered by the factory warranty. Also, save all receipts for purchases of all items you buy that are for the scheduled maintenance services. Keep a "logbook" to record dates and type of services done. If the machine features an hourmeter, record the hourmeter reading in addition to the date. Make sure you actually do all the scheduled maintenance services at the OEM specified intervals, or do them sooner than specified. Doing it early is OK but doing them late just gives ammo to the potential factory rep who might potentially deny your potential claim. Wow, that was a potent sentence! Another bit of "icing on the cake" would be to scan all your receipts and your log book into your computer (or create a "logbook document file" in the computer (using the word processing software in the computer) in case the dreaded event would require e-mailing to the factory or "third party". Heck, do both, your attention to detail would work in your favor with a rep or a jury. Since you just bought this machine, it is the perfect time for you to plan for keeping records of maintenance. Just remember that the record keeping could one day be as important as the maintenance itself. So do both "faithfully".

I think you are right "trying" to keep the see saw balanced using an hourly exchange instead of "$ per hour". I would opine that if he spends 4 hours working on your car (for example) you spend 4 hours of your time working on his problem (should that ever happen). The rates of pay, or fees, or charges, or whatever you want to call it.....are largely subjective (to all kinds of marketing pressures/factors) and are really just somebody's opinion of what the traffic should pay. But as you stated, 4 hours (of someone's finite lifetime) spent for your benefit is 4 hours they could have spent doing something for themselves instead. So, if the scales would ever be balanced, it would have to be in "raw time", not some arbitrary $ amount. The tougher (for me) aspect of bartering time is trying to categorize persons that I might be "bartering with". Some persons are simply enjoyable to be around, no matter what I'm doing for them (or they are doing for me) and I place a higher value on the mutual friendship than could ever be expressed in monetary terms. Realistically speaking, this subject is much deeper and complex than what can be addressed in brief. The subject almost always has some factors rooted in benevolence, and even "familial altruism" (when it comes to relatives and in-laws/outlaws.