its hard to come to any conclusions WITHOUT A PIC ... a 10 foot transplant took huge stresses in the digging .. moving.. and planting ... winter was probably minor after all that ... [and even worse.. if it was grown to 10 foot in a pot] i hope you have PERFECTED WATERING ... see link for a discussion after reading such.. if you want to discuss/compare how you are doing it.. feel free ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

it was stressed from the original planting... maybe too much water if you have clay soil which pooled rain ... or too little water otherwise ... and then you dug it up in the heat of july.. fully leafed out ... please... STEP AWAY FROM THE PLANT .... from now on.. you are only allowed to insert your finger in the soil.. let it NEARLY dry in between good soakings... AND PRAY.. AND CROSS YOUR FINGERS .... you might want to get another in sept for planting in october ... if you want to increase your odds ... but again.. its a maple... it may look like carp for the rest of the year.. and come back just fine next year ... i often suggest that we kill more stuff with to much TLC ... your redigging may have been a substantial application of to much TLC ... do you have a warranty???? and if so ... then you might have gotten the right suggestion from the nurseryman .. since he will stand by his suggestions ... i hope it all works out for you .. an i hope you can take the kidding around .... ken

TJ, This is the only one in the area, there are many silver maples in the neighborhood that are unaffected. I do not use lawn service. David Tornado, After coming out in the spring, a couple of branches turned yellow and lost their leaves and then the entire tree turned slightly yellow and about half of the leaves dropped. Did not loose the remaining leaves but all leaves stayed on the tree and turned brown. Leaves after several weeks are still on the tree but dried brown. David

Right^. But in doing so, many weakly-attached "suckers"-really just new branches-are formed wherever the cuts were made. I say weakly-attached, but even there, in time, enough new layers of growth are laid up and around these that they too eventually become more sound. The problem is-and here I go with the technical stuff again-silver maple is a poor compartmentalizer, which as a practical matter means that wherever a stub cut is made, decay is very likely to get started. So, if it seems like I'm telling both sides of the story, it's because I am. As beng said, silvers can and do usually just keep right on growing following such treatment, but at the same time, there is at the least, a temporary stage where there may be some poorly-attached branches, and these branches or suckers-same thing really-will grow very rapidly and in a crowded fashion. If it were mine, and I wanted to retain these trees in the landscape, I would do so but keep an eye on the structural aspects, for safety reasons. No tree has a warranty that it or a part of it won't fail, but the worst of powerline-clearance practice does lead to many more such events. +oM