Minwax will work. I would seal it first. Get the Minwax sanding sealer. This will make it a bit easier to sand before you apply the poly and the sealer helps you arrive at a smoother surface with fewer coats. I have used Old Masters stains a million times and have topcoated with all different brands of clears and never had issues.

I'm glad to know you guys don't like deglossers over sanding. I'm a professional decorative painter and always choose hand sanding on furniture pieces but have been tempted a few times to try a deglosser. I also agree that sanding and thoroughly cleaning trim in preparation is not a fun job, lol. A few years back I had a client who had a paint crew come on and put latex over oil painted trim...absolute disaster....ended in a lawsuit. I have pretty good luck with sanding and a bonding primer like 123 or C2... But a recently repainted a cabinet that had been done in oil and I did have some adhesion issues....I remember wishing I had just repainted the darn thing in oil. I believe one of the companies makes a non smelly oil based primer now, but I tried one and didn't care for the way it laid out...brush strokes. 123 levels out nicely, which is why I use that a lot. I would think using an oil based primer would be another way to eliminate sanding, though. Many of the oil primers say they can be topcoated with latex. Which always seems odd to me too! Maybe because they dry to a flatter sheen, gives the latex something to grip. I agree that the easiest thing is to thoroughly clean and repaint with oil like Ben Moore satin impervo, but aside for the yellowing factor, the op was considering a zero voc paint so oil is not gonna give you that....and the whole hassle of cleanup, of course. Oh, and when you see a primer that says it requires no sanding- ignore that. If you want to ENSURE latex sticks over oil, sand, and clean well. I was lazy painting over my own oil trim with 123 primer, and where I sanded it stuck well, and where I omitted the sanding, it didn't.

There is one thing and one thing only that factors into whether or not your white oil based paint will yellow - and that is daylight. For example, a windowless closet that you keep closed. The two sides of the closet door will literally be two different colors. The inside of the door and all the inside trim will yellow due to lack of exposure to beams of daylight. While the outside of the same closet door looks as fresh and crisply white as the day it was painted. It can be difficult to predict what areas painted with an oil base white will yellow because daylight is hard to track - how much do you need to avoid yellowing, once daylight enters through fenestration how far into the space does it reach, ??? etc. What I would like everyone to do is let go of the urban legends about oil based paint because they simply are not true. Today's oil is not like the oil paint of long ago. Every brand, at every price point of oil base paint has the potential to yellow based on the quantity of daylight that falls on it. Oil based paint is no more durable or scrubbable than the top grade modern water based paints. It fact, it can easily be argued that oil is LESS durable than water-based because at a molecular level it is rigid and tight, is not flexible and cracks under duress. Versus modern water-based resins that are flexible and can expand and contract with substrate. I would never, ever, ever in a million years specify oil for an exterior. Ever. My last house was about 4,000 square feet, 10 foot paneled doors, dentil and detailed moldings throughout, blah, blah, blah. All painted with high gloss white oil-based paint. I would never, ever, ever in a million years specify oil for an interior. Ever. :) Yours truly, funcolors P.S. I had to have two sets of French doors repainted before we put that house on the market. The painters sanded so there was zero gloss left, swept and wiped the doors down, and put one coat of acrylic in the same color of white directly over the old oil paint. I literally broke out in hives over their not wanting to prime first. Did not believe it would work or come out okay. Know what? It was fine. Perfectly fine. The water-based bonded to the deglossed oil like a champ.

Here's an article for oil VS water https://homeguides.sfgate.com/oil-vs-latex-kitchen-cabinet-refinishing-72017.html When I resurface furniture I prefer oil primer & oil paint due to it's durability and quality of spread. I have more success with oil over water base when painting wood. White is tricky due to yellowing sheen, however there is some oils with less sheen that are made to avoid yellowing. I have heard water base has become better over the years, but I personally have not found a product yet, I could guarantee. With my clients, I will not risk the possibility of something going wrong with painting cabinets. Technically I could, I have sold lots of painted furniture & I specialize in airbrushing. But, a kitchen is used everyday with lots of moving parts, so I shy away from the potential risk. If my clients really want to paint cabinets, I suggest a reputable cabinet refining company with warranty. I will not put new countertop on until after 3 months have gone by & any faulty paint problems like chipping, peeling, ect has been ruled out. Patience pays in this situation. I am more cautious & think about the future results & durability than a quick remodel. The reason why is I have met several clients who needed to redo their kitchens due to a failed paint job not wearing well in 3+ years. They tried fixing & fixing & said never again. They wanted new cabinets. Unfortunately, they had to get new countertop, too. Of course, I'm helping people with problems with paint jobs. I'm not getting calls from the people who got a good, durable paint job. I only suggest painted cabinets to sell or flip a home to show better. I would only have factory finish spray cabinets in my kitchen, because factory finish is superior. I cook daily and hard on my kitchen. I would paint a vanity or built in that is not taking a beating , but not a kitchen. So, to sum it up, I go with the Pro refinisher who warrants his work or new factory painted cabinets. Whatever you choose, I wish your project success.