After reading the posts, I had already tried Sprayway, Stainless Steel Magic, Mr Clean Erasers(once), vinegar and water. But never Pledge. As I only had the orange Pledge I thought what the ****, I'll try it. I used the Micro Fiber towel ( Yes the ones from Costco for cars). It was wonderful and quick. My French Door frig, my dishwasher and range look great and all in five minutes. I call my husband Shrek as he never thinks about using the handles, but now I have a quick fix. Thanks to those that suggested it.

Don't be offended, but the "Guaranteed analysis" of:Total Nitrogen (N) 0.01%, Water Soluble Nitrogen Soluble Potash (K20) 0.01%, Calcium (Ca) 2% puts the product high in the upper tier of products least likely to benefit your plant or help you succeed. It contains essentially nothing (1/10 0f 1 % nitrogen and potassium oxide is a miniscule amount) in the way of nutrients other than a little calcium, that if applied without including an appropriate amount of magnesium can induce an antagonistic magnesium deficiency. People have various views about how and when to fertilize because (easily) 99% of hobby growers have no idea how to take and keep control of nutrient management for their plants. What you fertilize with is important. It's essential that plants have all nutrients they normally take from the soil in the soil and available for uptake at all times. Most fertilizers don't allow you to accomplish that without using other products to supplement the primary source of nutrients. That's a headache and often doesn't end well. Also, your soil choice and watering habits are primary considerations in determining when it's appropriate to fertilize. E.g., if you're using a water retentive soil and are watering in sips, it might not be appropriate to fertilize AT ALL, from the period from mid fall through mid spring for fear the level of salts in the soil will rise to concentrations so high it makes it hard for the plant to take up water; but, if you use a highly aerated, fast draining soil that you're flushing every time you water, it's entirely appropriate to fertilize at low concentrations every time you water, which is what I do. I use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 because it has all the essential nutrients plants normally get from the soil, in the ratio at which the average plant actually USES the nutrients. This is a significant advantage because it helps prevent the badly skewed concentrations of nutrients that end up in your soil when using fertilizers that provide nutrients in a ratio not even close to that at which they are actually used. It's simple and has all plants need for normal growth in one solution. Al

I'm a good deal older than you and I too feel the pain. I plant thousands of onions and garlic from seed and this year I had someone younger plant about half of them. It was worth it ! Last year I tried something I had never tried before with the onions and it worked out well. I made a small trench along the rows of the onions and placed the onion seedlings all along the trenches at a 6" spacing. Then I simply raked the soil over the little bulbs and roots.

For this particular plant, one would expect the part of the plant above the distal node (farthest from the roots) to die back to that node, and the dead part would make an angular line. Let me use the image below as a visual aid: What you have is essentially the same as the image labeled 'cut made too high'. The stub left above the top bud would be expected to die back to just below the angular cut on the image labeled 'correct'. The reason the cut is made slightly higher than necessary (on 'correct') is to make sure that after the pruning cut is made, the tissue below the pruning cut cannot dry out such that it kills the bud. Now, I understand we're not talking about pruning. I used the example so you might see what I'm seeing - that the necrotic (dead) tissue seen in your images is not only lower than it would be expected, it also looks like the basal (at the base) area of both branches are affected. This could be resultant of the chill injury, but the additional die back and the chlorotic (yellow) streak that continues down the stem are concerning. The impression I'm left with is, you have something fungal going on and the disease is moving systemically in the plant. It might have started in the root system, which I most suspect, or there is some chance it originated in tissues damaged by chill injury. At this point, there is little you can do but make the patient comfortable (proper light, temps, watering, fertilizing) and wait to see what Mother Nature has in mind. We're all hoping for the best outcome. Al