The texture is showing more paint, "enhanced" look. Applying more paint will not correct the problem. The surface needs to be uniformly smooth in order to eliminate the dark areas.

Thank you for your advice.

One thing I realized, after I started this thread, is that there were
some textured areas that I had skimmed with joint compound. These were
the areas around the recessed light because some patching was needed.
But when I painted the ceiling these areas did not have dark spots like
the areas that were textured but not skimmed with joint compound.

I therefore decided to skim the dark areas with joint compound using a
wide putty knife today. The problem is that I will have to paint the
ceiling again. But I don't care. If it gives it a more uniform look it
will be worth it.

My question: Whenever I've used joint compound on the ceiling I've
primed it before painting. I use Zinsser Cover Stain Oil Base Interior
& Exterior Primer. Is it necessary to prime? For paint I'm using
Behr Premium Plus Interior Ceiling Flat Paint.

Yes, you'll need to prime or it will most likely create a new different look.

At this point(after you are done patching ) it might be wise to prime the whole ceiling. Cover stain is good but not necessary. Any quality latex primer will work. I would use Zinsser's 123.

Thank you very much.

This is how most of my kitchen ceiling looked like (notice the texture):

When I painted my ceiling there was not a uniform look. There were areas that were darker than others:

What I really want is to get a uniform look, like my living room ceiling:

After skimming the kitchen ceiling with joint compound, this is how it looks without any paint:

I plan to prime my kitchen ceiling with Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water Base Primer (http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...er-base-primer).

I then plan to paint the ceiling with Behr Flat Ceiling Interior Paint (http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Prem...5801/100206081).

My question: After I paint will my kitchen ceiling have the smooth look of my living room ceiling?

It's interesting when seeking advice on something you have no clue about.

When I was doing earlier work on this same ceiling I was using Zinsser Cover Stain Oil-Base Primer.

I was next planning to use Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Water Base Primer.

But someone tells me that because I've skimmed the ceiling with joint
compound, an oil-based primer will be better for it will not loosen the
joint compound like a water-based primer would. Does anyone know whether
this is correct? Sorry to sound like such an ignorant fool.

If 123 loosened joint compound they would not be able to sell it, you got bad advise.

I think I'm going to stick with 123. Some other people have also told me that 123 will not loosen the joint compound. In any case, I seek advice but the responsibility is mine. In other words, I'm not one of those people who, after accepting advice and things don't work out, they blame those who gave them the advice. At this point I don't care what happens. I'll just give it a try. Thanks for your feedback.

Common sense tells me if you use an oil based primer, you would need an oil based paint for it to stick to the primer as water base never sticks to oil based. Never use oil based on anything unless you plan on using oil based in that area forever. In general, I find oil based a stronger paint, but it has a very strong odor and is not needed for interior walls or ceilings. More useful for porches, decks, fences, stairs, cabinets, handrails.

It's not really true that water base doesn't stick to oil based, particularly with primers. It is fine to use an oil based primer or a water based primer and topcoat with whatever you like and there should be no bonding issues.

Thanks for the responses, folks.

One last question: Just curious what the visual effect would be if one used a thick nap roller cover on a smooth ceiling.

My kitchen ceiling used to be quite rough. Now it's relatively smooth. But I still have a roller cover meant for rough surfaces. Should I take it back and get one for smooth surfaces? Will the thick roller cover ruin the job?

I personally don't like 3/8 nap. I get a better finish with 1/2 nap. 3/4 nap can be too much for smooth.

The roller cover I have right now has a 1 1/4 inch nap. Is this too much nap?

unless you are painting brick, yes, a 1/2 in is all you need

Thanks for the nap advice.

paintball y store ?? I also use a 3/4 on ceilings most of the time, but I did not want to confuse the issue further.

Yes, I made the mistake of trying to post from the Houzz app. Man, does that thing need some work! Anyway, the problem is that sometimes when a ceiling is coming out unevenly, the 1/2" nap is the reason why.

Primed the kitchen ceiling yesterday.

It looks really good! Much better than before.

I caught some imperfections so I patched them with joint compound today.
Will sand them when they dry and run the primer roller over them.

I think for the paint I'm going to use 3/4" nap instead of the 1/2". I
say this because with the 1/2" there were some textured spots that were a
little hard to get the primer in. I caught them today after the primer
was dry. I'll go over these tricky spots again with primer.

A kind Samaritan gave me some very good advice yesterday. It's not really a nap problem. For the tricky, textured spots I can use a paint brush then go over them with a roller.

It's really good advice. For some weird reason I never considered using a brush for these problem spots on my ceiling. I thought the brush was for the edges and the areas immediately around the light fixtures.

If you are not ashamed to admit your ignorance, you'll always learn something useful. The learning process never ends.

having exactly the same issue now. I think the issue isn't with the paint or brash/nap. after the textured ceiling is removed and patched with the thick compound layer, and sanded, there could be small holes that when the sunlight shines on them, reflects a shadowy looking and wavy like imperfections. One of the solutions is to use a compound mixture that is almost liquid in that area. This will close these small holes. Afterward, use very fine sandpaper (180 to 240), and prime.