How do i achieve over 50% humidity?
Liam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years ago
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humidity vs. relative humidity... do we really care?
Comments (1)Any humidity reading given as a percentage is a relative humidity reading. Absolute humidity readings are rarely used and would be given in absolute units like g/m^3. Digital hygrometers are notoriously inaccurate. They're usually not as far off as yours seems to be, but maybe you have a dud. If you can feel the humidity, your 55% reading is probably the one to go by. I'd toss the gauge reading...See MoreHow to paint over 50 yr old polyurethane (shellac?)
Comments (3)Thanks, paintguy...I did try the sanding and it came off pretty easy. Although I ended up with "sparkle dust" all over the floor, the hand sanding didn't cause it to fly everywhere so cleanup was relatively easy! My husband said it's actually varnish, not shellac. The primer went on easily, hopefully the paint will too....See MoreWhat do I need to do to achieve this?
Comments (16)Hollysprings, Thanks for the input! Let me try to answer your questions. The current cooking area inside the cove is 58.5" wide and has a 30" gas unit with 14.25" landing area on each side. The gas connection and a 120 V electrical outlet for the ignition are behind the base cabinet and are perfectly accessible, as far as I know. I am doing 2 12" units not because I have no other choices but because I want both gas and induction. I love induction but having gas is a "must" due to power outages. I know people said they'd use their outdoor grills, but after Katrina, having gas indoors is non-negotiable for me. I figured that at any given time, I was using only 3 out 4 burners on my gas cooktop b/c the fourth one becomes unusable when I have two of my large pans on the cooktop. That was my reason for having 3 burners (instead of 4): 1-burner gas unit and 2-burner induction. And honestly, that is all I need most of the time. I have one of those "large small kitchens" with 9' between the cooktop center and the sink. I do most of my chopping/cutting over the sink and I am one of those "cook as you prep" people, so I am really sick and tired of running between the two all the time. That is why I was going to have one additional 1-burner induction unit on the peninsula which is on the same wall as the sink. For re-sale, I was going to replace the two 12" units with a 28" or 30" gas cooktop. My current vent is an in-line box sitting right under the ceiling. It has a working motor (thus, wire). It is simply old, weak, and dirty with no good way to clean the filter. The ceiling itself over the area is not brick but a regular ceiling, as far as I can tell, covered by a piece of plywood. According to an electrician I consulted, the duct starts as a round 6" duct, then becomes an 8" and then a 10" one going to the outside. I have an attic above the kitchen and easy access (according to those guys) which should make wiring simple, should it not? The last guy who came over (who was highly recommended by many and sounded like he really knew what he was doing) said he could build a custom liner (like a soffit) inside the cove. It will not be a hood, just something to surround a commercial liner with a blower. The cove opening depth from front to back is 15" or 16" (don't remember for sure) and - after a long search - I have found several 12"-14" deep blowers with decent power. Also, most of them are "deep" only at the bottom. If I bring the curve down, I can "borrow" additional depth below the brick. The total depth is ~19". He said he'd done it before but he did not say how much that "soffit" would cost (it was going to be part of the overall quote). I am not very clear how it is done, that is why I was concerned about the cost. I am not sure I have addressed everything you said. Have I omitted anything? Also, I have read on a website that an easy way to cover a brick wall with plaster would be using plaster sheets. Is it a viable option? Seriously, I am not "married" to that brick. :-) My original plan was to tear the structure down. I even had an elevation done accordingly. But then I started second-guessing b/c some folks tried to talk me out of it and also because - literally - everyone who comes to the house, starts "wow-ing" about it, LOL. And I was one of those people myself when I bought the house. :-( That is why I want to be absolutely sure that tearing down is the best option. I do have budget constraints so I am trying to "optimize" the cost to get "the best bang for the buck". Not sure if this makes any sense. :-)...See MoreHow do fans work now? Do I need a humidity sensor?
Comments (1)The timer may be a better option. Humidity sensors are generally hit 'n miss or become that way over time. What I do with them - when I had them and took longer hot/warm showers (only do short, cool ones these days) - is to turn the dial until the fan comes on, then when I finish, turn it to the high humidity setting until it turns off, and then turn back slightly again until it turns on and leave it there....See MoreLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoshavedmonkey (Harvey in South Fl.)Z10b
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a) thanked shavedmonkey (Harvey in South Fl.)Z10bsuzabanana (6b Boston/N. Shore)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a) thanked suzabanana (6b Boston/N. Shore)Liam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years agoLiam Coldwell (Zone 9a)
8 years ago
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shavedmonkey (Harvey in South Fl.)Z10b