Silicone to close gap between countertop and undermount sink
Ann
8 years ago
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Ann
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Acrylic undermount sink with laminate countertop?
Comments (11)Nolamom, sorry for the late reply. I hadn't checked this thread for a while. We used a Corian Counter-Seal ring. The KD says something seemed to have changed in the adhesive Corian tells the fabricators to use, as during a 2 year period about 5 failures like ours happened (2007-late 2008). The fabricators swore they were using the approved stuff and were certified, so it wasn't their fault. The Counter-Seal people said it was past the 1 year warranty, so it wasn't their problem. The KD quit selling the undermount rings as he couldn't afford to cover more new counters for replacements. I just saw some ads for a new overmount sink that has a very flat thin lip, so it seems to almost look and work like an undermount sink. Here's the info--it's from an article on CNET. "How about an easy-(and inexpensive) to-install overmount sink that gives you the look of a flushmount? That's what you get with MicroEdge, the latest offering from Blanco. It's an ultrafine rim--1.25 mm--that installs over virtually any counter material for a precision, near seamless edge. The sink isn't cheap--you'll spend around $600--but the install is standard enough that you can do it yourself or hire someone to do it for you for far less than a flush or undermount." I'm was actually glad I didn't see these sinks before we ordered the granite, as I might have given in to my DH's desire to just replace the sink section of the laminate and do an overmount sink this time. If granite/quartz isn't an option, these new sinks might be workable for OP. Good luck!...See Morequestion about silicone seal between counter and undermount sink
Comments (10)Thanks, all, for these messages. I think the grout is epoxy, as stoneonecorp guessed, because he mixed multiple small batches and worked very quickly, and I didn't see anything sand/cement-y involved. And I'm glad to hear that non-experts can redo that caulk sink seal with no apparent trauma. I was surprised when he told me that *I* should caulk over his grout seal. This is a guy who was recommended *very* highly by a lot of people: I called every single person on his references list and asked a lot of very critical questions. No one, not a single person, said, "he expected us to finish up the job; he told us to caulk our own counters." ISn't that part of the installation? Anyway, I think I know the answer to that. And given that he whined when we asked him to come back and re-seal the sink (which he messed up the second time as well as the first time -- all the while complaining that no other homeowner had ever asked him to do this, and that the sink is not his responsibility), I don't want him back in my house, because I think he's a jerk. So: sounds like I should recaulk the sink seal and caulk over the grout he laid. Yes? I'm going to use clear silicone and masking tape, so it looks nice. Any other tips, advice, cautions? Pamkcs, did you just rip the old sealant out with a screwdriver and clean what was behind it? As before, thanks in advance!...See MoreUndermount sink w/wood countertops?
Comments (39)We are getting ready to refinish our wood counter tops. They are over 10 years old and received no maintenance during that time. Except for heavy wear areas (i.e., the outer edge in front of the sink), all the damage is from water: dish drainers to the sides of the sink, the path between the sink and the dishwasher, around the faucet (which has a very small leak), and where the counter meets the sink. The latter two have mildew rot. Notice that the sink is smaller than the cutout in the counter, leaving a lip for water to accumulate (the hole was cut using a template included with the sink - they probably use larger holes today). I would agree with riverspots and andersons: had we given it regular maintenance (recaulk, recoat, and replace faucet gaskets every 2-3 years) it is possible that it wouldn't need to be refinished now. Note that, to maintain the appearance, you have to recoat BEFORE the finish cracks. If afterwards, you'll have to settle with the visible defect or refinish the entire counter. The butcher block counter was original finished with an indoor polyurethane. This time we will use a marine coating. And we'll find a dish drainer that doesn't get any water at all on the counter. Also, if your installing wood, try to avoid faucets that mount directly on the wood....See MoreBest type of “sealant” 2 use b/t undermount sink & quartzite counters?
Comments (7)bridget: It depends. See if you can see some silicone squeeze-out between your sink flange and stone bottom. If you do, you've got a good seal and can just remove all the topical silicone. If not or if you're not sure, you'll probably have to drop the sink, re-silicone, and reinstall. If there isn't any silicone, I'd test for silicone bleed before caulking....See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
8 years agoAnn
8 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoIowacommute
8 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
8 years agopractigal
8 years agoAnn
8 years ago
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