Why are wasps and hornets not the #1 recommended organic pest control?
A J
8 years ago
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grubby_AZ Tucson Z9
8 years agoUser
8 years agoRelated Discussions
really trying to grow organic-but the pests!!!
Comments (8)Assuming we know for sure the problem is leaf borer? rather than leaf miners (which are easily tolerated unless they go after edible leaf crops) then could you please describe the damage being done? Is it affecting production or merely appearance of the leaves? If actual production is affected, the old stand-by of a weak dish soap in water spray works well. If it's only appearance then the plants need their leaves more than they need to get rid of the miners. Leaf miners are cyclical and will soon disappear. Tolerance of less-than-perfect appearance in the organic garden is one of the most difficult lessons to learn but well worth the effort. ;)...See MoreOrganic Fertilizers and Pest Control
Comments (33)Hi reptile girl: Let me say that I understand your feelings of being critizied and your question ignored. I read your original post then everyone thereafter, then back to yours. I'm hoping I can help you feel less attacked and perhaps give you a better understanding of how this site works. I also had an experience of feeling attacked and I barked back, then several people jumped on me etc. This is what I hear in your original posting: you are very proud of the hard work you have put into your garden of choice, SYG. You continue to give info about your efforts to provide the best growing mixture and fertilizers that have worked for you. You were not looking for any additional information about soil structure, how you should change the way you garden, etc. you are a happy camper with what you have accomplished and should be. The one question that you asked was what organic fertilizer could you add to your garden to insure the best possible crops. Instead you got bombarded with advice, corrections, suggestions, critisims etc. These are my thoughts that I hope help you; first it is helpful to understand that the people who hang out on the Garden Web are extremely knowledgable gardening people either through university or years of experience or both. These people can help you with virtually any question or problem that you may have. Also just by reading in several different areas you will learn so much more than you can imagine. Now all these experts are great resources but just like a professor, they are quite willing to share their ideas, thoughts, tried experiments and so on. And just as professors in the same subject area, they do not all agree with each others view point or practices. Often many of the postings are the experts discussing between themselves the positive & negatives of what has been written. One thing can be said about this site, there are many generous people who are willing to share their views and that's great. What you probably should do in the future is ask your question, that's it. By putting down so much info, everyone got on board with their ideas, stuff went back and forth and you ultimately felt attacked. They really are not attacking, they are very eager to share their knowledge to be a benefit to you. If you visit again and have a concern or question, I'd suggest giving only pertainent info that would help the other readers to give you exactly what your looking for, no more, no less. Those of us who reply to a post should probably take an extra minute to understand exactly what info is needed and offer only that unless the poster comes back to ask for more info. Efforts to help all who post are truly generous with their time and talent but I can see the flip side, so much response with so much advice and/or critiques can be overwhelming to the newbies. I hate to see & read the sniping back and forth that escalates to a point where some really nasty things are said. I think that before we offer so much advice, we may need to realize that not everyone wants or needs all of the knowledge that we are so eager to share and are then offended "after all we've done" when the writer says "enough." I hope reptile girl that you can see this site in a new positive way. My one big piece of advice comes from a Russian grandma that lived next door years ago. She had several potted rose bushes that produced gorgeous roses and all she did was throw left over vegetables, fruit skins, virtually anything into a pot, covered it with water and left it heat for many hours. What was left she poured on the roses. It sure worked. Last year I had quite a science experiment in my frig. plus stuff to go out to the compost pile. I gathered it all together and decided to put some of the scraps into my blender w/some water and spin for awhile. When I was done I had two big bowls of gunk that I poured on my two Deodor cedars. Within days those trees were sprouting all kinds of new growth on all the branches and both trees became substantially fuller and taller. I thought it was hilarious. Maybe I should repeat that routine and try it diluted much more in several other areas of the garden. I may be on to something. Good luck with your crops, it is fun and rewarding when you can actually feed yourself from your own garden, plus I'm sure the nutrition levels are so much greater than the average found in stores....See MoreGH pest control
Comments (40)You're not going to be able to totally get rid of your bugs until you've had several hard freezes outside. The ones that are outside are going to get back in. The best you can hope for now is to keep the levels down. The fogger machine works because the bugs can't get away from it. When you coat the tops and bottoms of the leaves at the same time and all the surfaces on the bugs get coated with something that either penetrates their bodies or smothers them, it's just not good news for them. Of course you have to keep at it every few days because ones that are in egg stages still hatch and have to be killed too. No--I didn't get the cheapest fogger they had because I needed higher volume to fill my larger greenhouses. I didn't see what size your greenhouses are. Maybe a smaller one would work. Another plus is that you don't have to be in there at all while you fog, always good when working with chemicals. Your most infested plants, you should get them out of the greenhouse. If destroying them is not an option, cut them back, and pull all the leaves off of them and give them a dormant oil spray like for a fruit tree and then put them back. You need a good coverage with any spray, but especially a dormant oil spray. It works by smothering pests and eggs and it will damage soft stemmed plants, but it sounds like they're damaged anyway. It's a last resort option. Rotate your sprays, different brands of sprays work the same way. For example some attack the nervous system. If you use a spray that attacks the nervous system 3-4 times in a row, even if it's a different brand, then it'll quit working as the bugs adapt. I put a link on there for you to a chart, the chart starts on page 3 of the link. What I did was to print out the chart and then take it to my bug killers and look at the chemicals on the bug killers, then when you find what class they're in, write the class on it with a big magic marker number on the front. Then you rotate your sprays according to action and class. Use a calendar to schedule and rotate your sprays. Write down what you used, what strength you mixed it and what date. Insecticidal soap is a good one to use in between sprays if you can't remember what you used last time because it's not one they can get used to at all, but good coverage is the whole key, so therefore the fogger really helps. I've been doing this for a living now for 3-4 years and I had terrible trouble with bugs the first couple of years until I got the fogger and got my spray rotations happening. Yes, it will cause the humidity to go up, but you can always heat and vent it back out. Just don't water too much either. It sounds like you also have problems with high humidity, overcrowding and possibly overwatering. Good luck, and if you need any support, you can e-mail me, too. Here is a link that might be useful: insecticides modes of action...See MoreOrganic solutions to pests and diseases in plants
Comments (15)My getting horse manure mid-summer this year was worth it: Only 1 rose-slug out of the entire garden (50+ roses), that's on the hill where I could not apply horse manure. Previous year of NO horse manure I had at least a dozen rose slugs. High-phosphorus ATTRACT pests. Yves Seedling got DOUBLE-DOSE of Dr.Earth NPK 4-10-7 ... I was absent-minded so I applied that twice. That's the only rose which was attacked by thrips ... I killed 5 thrips on that rose, after seeing one deformed bloom. Yesterday I saw one grasshopper on that rose, so I chopped that pest into half with a scissor. I was cutting blooms for the vase, so I inspected all my roses: none of them have grasshopper, except for Yves-seedling. Yves Seedling is in its 3rd year, no thrips whatsoever in previous years .. it's a dark-red rose. Re-post the info. Here's an Abstract from Cornell University, entitled "Effects of manure and chemical fertilizers on insect pest populations on collards." http://www.researchgate.net/publication/223371840_Effects_of_manure_and_chemical_fertilizers_on_insect_pest_populations_on_collards Department of Entomology, Comstock Hall, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY " This proposition was examined using collards grown in five treatments: two with fresh manure at two levels (12 and 220 ha−1); one with ‘sheet composted’ manure at 220 ha−1; a chemical fertilizer treatment (785 kg ha−1 of 13:13:13 NPK); and a control treatment with no added nutrients. Population densities of two flea beetles and two lepidopteran pests were monitored weekly. During population peaks, flea beetle densities were significantly higher on plants receiving chemical fertilizers than on plants receiving similar amounts of macronutrients from manure. Flea beetle, imported cabbage worm and diamondback moth densities were significantly higher on untreated plants than on plants receiving any added nutrients. Flea beetle densities were also significantly higher on plants grown with ‘sheet composted’ manure than on those grown with fresh manure. " *** From StrawChicago: As to rose-midge, the only time I had that was when I did my oat-meal experiment in 2013 fall: mixing oatmeal with fluffy potting soil, and topped Golden Celebration with that in the fall. That created a perfect moist & fluffy environment for rose midge to hatch. I saw midge flying around that rose, plus deformed blooms, so I read Cornell University research which stated that too dry, or too wet would stop midge. So I put my soaking-wet-clay on top, and FLOODED that area many times per day. That took care of rose-midge for good. No other roses affected, and no midge in my 2 decades of growing roses. This year I topped my roses with DRY & alkaline RED-LAVA-ROCK and pea-gravel. Here's a good article on Rose-midge control: http://www.pghrosesociety.org/rosemidge.html "The only reported effective non-chemical control for rose midge would be daily removal of affected new growth tips and destroying the debris. This prevents of larva from dropping to the ground and pupating into new insects. Do not compost the remove plant material for this will allow the life cycle to continue in and around your garden. This requires diligent daily inspection of the new growth to detect the infestation and remove the plant part before the larva (sometimes referred to as maggots) fall to the ground. There is some anecdotal reports that removal of any mulch and loose soil around the plants in late fall will remove the embedded larva which burrows about 1-2" below the surface. Again this material must be removed from the garden or anywhere within 150 feet to prevent return of the insect. The only scientific study published in the horticultural literature on in subject of rose midge control appeared in 2006 authored by Dr. Janice Elmhirst ... The two biologicals tested are commercially available, one being AVID (with the active ingredient abamectin derived from the soil microorganism Streptomyces avermitilis and the other DOKTOR DOOM®, a ready to use permethrin formulation. The predators were a nematode (Steinernema feltiae) and a predatory mite in the form of an unidentified Hypoaspis species. The chemical control was Matador (lambdacyhalothrin), which is similar to the active ingredient in the Bayer chemical products mentioned earlier. The results of this study were interesting in that the predatory insect approach actually had a higher level of midge damage than the untreated controls. The best result came from the Doktor Doom product with less than 2% damaged rose growth. The next best was the chemical control with approximately 4% damaged tips. The Avid did better than the control but not by a significant amount." http://www.pghrosesociety.org/rosemidge.html...See Moretheforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agopeter_6
8 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
8 years agoA J
8 years agodirtguy50 SW MO z6a
8 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
8 years agorgreen48
8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
8 years agoelisa_z5
8 years agoA J
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoelisa_z5
8 years agoChris (6a NY)
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8 years ago
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