I never use foam to air seal. seen too many 'sealed' holes that aren't sealed with foam. it just expands too rapidly to get where it needs to go, and as it expands so big...you can't see the original hole to make sure it is sealed. use caulk, doesn't have to be silicone. my go to caulk is Dap's brand Alex Plus with 35 year life. water clean up, smooth caulk. I prefer the clear over the white, I've used white that was too dry, maybe old...but enough to make me not purchase it anymore. there are quite a few holes in the housing of the bath fan. but they are best left alone. close it up too much & it will shut off (safety feature) from overheating. bath fans have UL ratings, and are designed to have insulation around and on them. take the cover off inside & verify that the fan is UL rated. the real reason I'm suggesting that you take the cover off from inside is this. the oversized cut in the sheetrock. this is where you'll get bits of cellulose & its fine 'dust' entering the house. I use Hardcast brand #1402 mastic tape to seal ceiling penetrations. the tape sticks well to multiple surfaces, is strong & last long term. if you have a hvac supply house, check with them for the mastic tape. it is pricy, but is worth every penny. I use it in many applications. here are a couple of pics. the first one shows why caulking these openings doesn't work long term. the second a supply box mastic seal at box to ceiling, done from inside the house. best of luck

That would be a fail there, dealing with the flex tube, which would cause constant clogs, how does it connect to the real drain line? Looks like it just terminates there and there is nothing to actually seal the connection. Probably have constant sewer gas leak there. Surprised you havent had water leaks either. I understand the difficult access and the flex tube is probably all they could use, but they really would need a reducing fernco to seal the rigid and flex. Expect to continue to have clogs with using that flex. And it is technically an S-trap which might siphon water out of the trap causing sewer gas. If it is possible replace the flex with rigid, should be enough space for a P-trap. Then there is the venting and S-trap issue, connect the drain to a vent before it goes down using a sanitary tee. Just a lot of fail here, and hard to fix without access to a proper vent.

Thank y'all for all the information! I may throw some paint on these gourds and just roll some tangle trap on/in it just to see how it works. Definitely meant eggs not seeds! lol So if I just knock them off the plant, that's enough to ensure they don't get to the vine? Assuming they can't migrate, maybe interplanting is helping somewhat! I counted today and have 60 squash. Definitely too many to keep up with egg squishing for a long time and at this point, row covers wouldn't work for my current set up but will be something I look into in the future. Could I provide some type of home for some mason bees or something under the row covers and opt out of hand pollinating? That'd be great if it could be that easy! :) Has anyone tried Bt for SVB? I know it's not listed as effective against them but have read some anecdotal evidence that spraying & injecting work. Any one try this method? I was thinking if I do a combination of seed squishing (while it's manageable), gourd traps, & Bt I might stand a good chance @ beating them this year! I may try replanting in July just to see if it will work too! Everything usually starts to die from heat around then but I may have some other plants large enough to shade the squash sprouts/seedlings while they get started. Its starts to cool a bit towards the end of Sept so they should have time to pick up production once the heat wanes and before the Dec freeze.

I'm going to guess provogal lives in Canada. I don't know if some variations of his shows are still being shown, but there's a Toronto-area general contractor named Mike Holmes who has had a series of TV shows about building and remodeling on cable stations. Holmes on Homes was one of them. He's become quite a local personality. Among the many things I learned was that there are certain peculiarities of Canadian construction compared to US techniques and one of them is "cold rooms". These were very common in older houses but I'm not so sure about newer construction. Sometimes under the front porch, sometimes in the basement, these were areas for food storage. You can imagine with how cold winters are in Canada, arranging for "cold storage" isn't too hard a task. Such cold rooms are not common in general construction in the US, except maybe something like root cellars in farmhouses, etc. Is having one useful these days with larger refrigerators and less home grown food to store? I wouldn't think so.