Thank you harvestman for your valuable input. After reading through your response to me, I feel I have a bit more explaining to do. I would also like to mention that last Winter was an unbelievably cold one. Ongoing -20 to -30 actual temps, should that be any consideration here as well. Because of deer problems, I have kept my scaffolds up a bit to alleviate some of their browsing activity on both foliage and fruit. I open prune as well, in order to get the optimal sun exposure on the fruit of this variety. That's a big part of what it takes to get the Honey Gold variety to sweeten up favorably for my palate. The canopy is therefore in somewhat of an umbrella effect. Hopefully this will explain some of why you don't see much foliage in my photos. Canopy is higher up from where my scaffolds are joined to the main trunk, which is where this problem was mostly taking place down lower. So yes, is a low foliage factor in that area. This tree is on M-7 rootstock. I like the semi dwarf so I can keep them trained for maintaining off of an 8 foot standard ladder. So maybe this helps to explain why I was inquiring about some grafting option for on the main trunk too. I want to be able to train several new main scaffolds. Right now this tree has two balanced scaffolds opposite to each other. I had to eliminate the other two that it previously had. Most likely there are not any dormant buds on the mature portion of the main trunk in the vicinity where the new scaffolds need to be situated. I will definitely double check that when I am able. I don't live where these trees are situated. They are out of town out on an acreage that I own. Below is a pic of the exact tree in question, I thought I should at least show a few leaves - lol. In this photo, one main scaffold has already been removed from the back side. The forking branch to the far right seen here was the next to go after this pic was taken. I actually did an extended stub cut on it should I want to go with a cleft type graft at that particular spot. I'm thinking I would like to start any newly grafted scaffolds above the remaining existing ones, but below the main canopy. So possibly still go with the side grafts for here or ??? FYI - these Honey Golds were my first attempt at growing apple trees. I have definitely learned more training and framework techniques since these were planted. So in fact would like to take this opportunity to say thank you to all who post and advise here on this site. It has been a very informative go to place for me for the last several years. Any additional input or evaluations from you harvestman or any of the other fine folks on this forum would be greatly appreciated. Mike/Q-3

Lop off the top... that is pretty much what i thought i'd have to do to the big one at least. Never thought or read about the hinge straightening method before although i did wonder if something of the sort could be done. I even got an email from Oikos tree crops about their mulch mats and wondered if i should get a couple. I think i might. What is the best time to have a go at the big tree? It is any time of year or right about now is good? I'd like to keep these trees fairly small, i had thought they were dwarfs before i knew that both standard and dwarf were most always grafted. Growing up, all i had ever seen of apple trees growing on family land were seed grown except the one 3-in-one my grandfather had cobbled together himself many, many years ago. The big one is almost too tall to get the spray onto all the way to the top, so i won't miss losing any height. Also, is Bonide Fruit Tree Spray a good spray for these trees? I didn't know what exactly what to look for when i decided i needed to do something. I knew the trees had problems, but i didn't know where to begin looking them up. So i got what i hope is an effective broad-spectrum remedy. Is there something better i can get and something i can use right off? I first used the Bonide just as the leaves were unfurling and again when the flowers were all pink but not opened. The petals are falling, but not fast and they are turning brownish orange. There are even some buds that haven't opened yet... is that normal or a sign of an issue? I'm supposed to use the Bonide again when the petals fall but where it seems to be taking an extended time doing so, i'm wondering if the starting fruit will get attacked by something in the mean time. I tried finding a pictoral guide to pests & diseases of apples, but i didn't find anything i could use. I bought "The Pruning Book" by Lee Reich the other day, it won't arrive for a while in the mail. I have looked at other orchard books but i don't want to end up with less than helpful information... books are not cheap in any media. I was looking at the trees this morning and i was thinking... would it be stupid to just prune off anything that isn't flowering? Like the obvious suckers just shooting straight up. At least on the small one. I'd need a ladder anyway! Thanks for putting up with the rambling!

Thanks for your replies! I believe you both are correct about root problems. The trees have been in the ground for 3 years, but they've been in less than ideal conditions. They didn't have any mulch till a couple months ago. They also had only a couple drippers (2 hours with 2 1-gallon drippers, or 4 gallons per tree) on them that were close to the trunk and they got frequent shallow waterings. My soil is like concrete when it's dry. So I think the roots couldn't grow outwards. Now I have 4 drippers that circle around further from the trunk and I'm giving them deep waterings (4 hours with 4 1-gallon drippers, so 16 gallons per tree each time I water). I also added 6 inches of mulch and I also wet the entire area with the garden hose to get some activity going. I can chop off the top half of the trees if that's what you suggest.

Sunscald is the most likely cause, but there are other ways sections of tissue can die. Fungus decays the dead tissue over summer. A healthy tree walls off the dead tissue, so hopefully the fungus dies out after the dead tissue is consumed. The result is a canker spot like the one i n the picture. Some people bridge graft over extensive cankers on trunks, but I think that one will be okay as long as it doesn't get more damage on the good side. You might want to checkout the recent post on trunk protection. Here is a link that might be useful: Trunck Protection