My raised terrace or balcony dilemma. Connecting house to the garden
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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started your balcony gardens?
Comments (64)Very nice, Petrushka! -I would love to see that plant stand you did (I can't really make it out under all that lush foliage ;-) I'm running out of space fast, and I'm looking for new ideas as how to maximize the space I've got.... even if just to spur new ideas! (I just bought a lemon verbena and a strawberry mint the other day, and saw several other mints I would love to get my hands on) -As it is now.... if I get anymore, something else has to go: "I'm looking at YOU, puny basils and YOU, Abyssinian Gladiolus!" I've had luck with overwintering muscadet lilies in the past... It always survived the winters... It was in my biggest container, but I don't think it had to be as large as that. I just placed the bulbs on top of the soil, and then gave them a THICK layer of mulch. SOme winters, the biggest bulbs wouldn't survive, but I think that might have had to do with watering. But the smaller bulbils would always make it, and also give blooms. -Perhaps the big ones actually DID make it, but where just under fertilized... I'm not sure... anyway, the story is, that they kept blooming every year, without protection. Muscadets ARE orientals, but I have no idea whether they are hardier than other orientals or not. I just bought them, while in bloom, because I liked the smell, and they were cheap and showy ;o) I also did the small pots to larger pots to big pots thing this year... Since I'm at home from work atm, I tried it out... but I don't think I'll be doing that again. I'm not very good with seedlings, unless they are fairly hardy, and can be direct sown. This summer I will sow some hardy perennials, and a biennial, (plus wintersow to make sure some of it makes it), and then in the future, all sowing I'll be doing for the balcony will be tomatoes and a direct sown squash, given they are a success this year. How you guys keep up with it, is beyond me, but I tip my invisible hat for you! Again, lovely balcony! VG...See Morepics of my garden
Comments (27)hi ham01. this is my first season with the beds, we have clay based soil (it is terrible), to help fill the beds i mixed it with dried grass clippings (cause that is what i had on hand) and added a few yards of loam through out, i have never ammended the soil before and i really just wanted to fill the beds. since then i have learned about lasagna gardening and i have started a compost bin. i don't think i could be more excited about making my own dirt, it is just as much fun as the garden.... my cukes are in a bed that is primarily loam. although i have successfully grown them in the clay. make sure yours get adequate watering, we have been in a long dry spell that just ended last night into today (it must be our first rain in 1 1/2 mos.) last year mine didn't get even watering and they were SO bitter we actually threw them out (too bad i didn't have the compost then...) here is a link from another post that i thought was so interesting in diagnosing your veggie dilemmas, maybe look at that, it sounds like there may be something wrong and it may not be your soil at all. good luck. sarah Here is a link that might be useful: identifying veggie (cukes) diseases...See MoreMy First Garden
Comments (32)Kirsty, Before you yank out your peas, try starting a thread just about the peas. Link one or two pea photos and ask a simple question like "what is wrong with these peas". Then, Dorothy and others who routinely grow peas will see that thread, and hopefully they can tell you what is going on. I think it probably is disease caused by the very wet spring, but also might be heat-related. Since I seldom grow peas, I don't feel qualified to state with confidence that it "is this" or "is that". I hate to see anyone rip out a maturing crop without taking time to be sure that the likelihood of getting a good harvest is diminishing. If that is powdery mildew on the peas, you can treat with any fungicide, organic or chemical in nature, that is labeled for use on edible crops. I would never attempt to transplant a tomato that is in the ground at this point, unless it is still very, very small (and yours are not). With tomato plants that are very overcrowded this early in the season, you have several options. 1.) Leave them as they are, have fun harvesting from the wild jungle this summer, and plant with better spacing next year. This isn't as bad as it sounds. If your worst garden problem is that you planted too early and have to crawl into a jungle to harvest your 'maters, then that's not such a horrible problem, is it? 2.) Take a cutting from every other plant. Root the cuttings in water or soil (your choice) and start raising replacement plants. When I raise cuttings, I put one variety per container and label it with masking tape labels to keep the varieties straight. A week or two later (once your rooted cuttings have nice roots), remove evey other plant (it's OK---you already have your replacements for them growing). By removing and composting (sorry!) those plants, you've given the remaining plants twice the space to grow, enlarge and fruit. Then, after peas, lettuce, brussels sprouts, broccoli and other cool season crops come out (it is hot enough that they should be finishing up soon now), plant your cutting-grown plants in those empty spaces. That way, you'll have great tomato plants for fall and your spring-planted plants will have more room. 3) Or, after you've got cuttings going, instead of pulling up and trashing the plants, you could cut the plants back HARD, removing all but about the bottom food of growth and then dig them up and attempt to transplant them. The key is to cut them back so the roots are not too stressed from the shock of transplant + trying to support a large amount of topgrowth. Keep them watered well the first month (moist, not soggy) after they were transplanted and they should regrow and produce for fall. If not, you have back-up cutting grown plants. This only works if the bottom foot of the plant has a lot of healthy foliage. Otherwise, if the bottom foot is all stem and few leaves, they likely will not survive the transplanting process. 4) Leave them exactly as they are, but prepare for their continued growth. First, remove the branches, limbs, and suckers from the bottom 12-18" of the crowded plants. This will open up that lower area for better air flow which is a key issue and will help your plants avoid summer diseases like Early Blight. Then, mulch heavily under the plants to keep weeds down and to reduce soil splash and disease. (Diseases in the soil are splashed up onto the tomato stems and leaves when it rains or when you use overhead watering.) To keep the plants from falling over and taking down their cages, stake them. You can use whatever you have handy to serve as stakes. When I need stakes, I go to the lumber area at Lowe's or Home Depot and buy a bundle of construction stakes. They usually come in 2' and 3' heights, and sometimes in 4'. Currently, I am using the ones that are 4'tall. Stake each cage with one or two stakes to keep them from falling over. I hammer the stakes into the ground with an ordinary hammer, and attach the stakes to the cages with zip ties. If you find more bargain cages on sale, buy enough that you can turn each small cage into a tall cage. Use zip-ties (found in the electrical section of hardware and home center stores) to attach one 'new' cage to each existing one. So, you're attaching the top ring of each new cage to the top ring of each old cage and the legs of the new cage are sticking up into the air. This will allow your plants to grow upwards for 2 or 3 more feet and will keep your plants from becoming such an unruly mass. Trust me, this is a great solution for your current dilemma. 5. Leave the tomato plants as they are, but put some 6' t-posts every few feet, buy some twine or wire, and use the Florida Weave techinique to keep your plants growing upwards above their current cages. Google to find some photos/how to's for the Florida Weave, or do a search on the tomato forum. There--I've given you several tomato options and any of them will help you maintain a little control without sacrificing too much of your potential harvest. By the way, winter time is a great time to make your tomato cages, trellises, etc. for spring and it allows you to spend the money then, instead of in the spring when garden costs are high. If you make your cages in several different diameters, you can store smaller ones inside of bigger ones which are stored inside still larger ones, and they won't take up too much storage space in the off-season. Dawn...See MoreCan the awkward layout in my little old house be fixed?
Comments (27)Well there is one thing I think is pretty unanimous - the doorway between the dining and living rooms will get moved over to the west about 20", allowing the space under the stairs to be better utilized either for storage or a little reading nook/desk spot. Got the toughest decision out of the way first :) I really don't want to mess with the plumbing stack that is behind the built-in.....so unless that's really the only way to make things work, there will be no passageway along that north living room wall. I had thought about moving the heat pump away from the laundry room window and over to the west, on the other side of the garage door, and then converting the laundry room window to a door and having that be our main entry on the back side of the house. I'm afraid it may look funny though to have two exterior doors right next to each other, and I don't want to lose the exterior access to the garage, so that door will have to stay put. I think the laundry room window will need to stay as it is and the dining room door should be the main entrance. We can redo the landscaping & put in a sidewalk that will direct traffic to that door from the driveway. One thing I'm not sure of is if I should do sliders or French doors? Is it weird to have a slider as the "front" door? And how do I handle privacy - the door faces the back yard, there is no house or anything back there that could see in, but I still want something to cover the door at night. Maybe built-in blinds would be best? I love the idea of moving the kitchen to the nook....it would be so nice to look out into the yard while working in the kitchen, but that would mean that we have to use the dining room as THE dining room. I don't think that will work if the dining room door is the entry and even if it weren't, that room is not really suited for a dining room table. It's too narrow and too much of a passthrough room. I tried it out briefly a year or so ago and it didn't work very well. bp's suggestion of closing off the current laundry/kitchen connection and moving the washer/dryer there looks good - we could open up a doorway to the right of the sink and shift the sink/stove/kitchen to the south. Opening up a doorway to the living room from the kitchen would let in light from the big picture window in the living room, so the kitchen wouldn't feel as dark. The rest of the laundry room space (north end) could be used as a mudroom and normal household traffic could go from the garage to the "dining" room and then on to the bedrooms or living room. The one thing I'm not sure about with that plan is where does my pantry go? I would like to have a decent pantry as we do a lot of gardening and canning in the summer and I don't have a basement or cellar to use for storage. Maybe it would have to go somewhere in the laundry area. Thanks again for the terrific suggestions and the kind comments about our little house. It's not perfect and definitely has its idiosyncrasies but it's also got a lot of character and charm - thanks for reminding me of that, I tend to take it for granted sometimes!...See More- 8 years ago
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