We researched Beverage centers extensively before choosing one. I also was really attracted to the french-door Danby, but I read only lukewarm to negative reviews on them. Also, many of the beverage centers didn't get cold enough to be food safe (below 40) and to keep beer/beverages really cold. We ended up choosing a KitchenAid Architect II model and really couldn't be happier. We've had it a bit over 1.5 yrs now. It has 3 zones so beer, white wine and red wine can all be stored in the unit. Also, the beverage compartment gets down to 37 degrees, so we're comfortable having opened juice in there. Something else I like was that when DH put a stopper in a bottle of red wine that had a screwtop (doh!) and it leaked ALL over the beverage center before we discovered it the next day, it cleaned right up- even the wood parts!

The KitchenAid beverage center is 24" wide. We shopped for months to finally choose this model. We picked it because it has less beverage space and more wine space, which fits our beverage needs better than the two-wine rack configurations. We also like that it has three zones: a cold beverage section, a cool white wine sections and a red section. Currently the temps for those sections are reading 37, 52, 59. The model was brand new when we chose it, and there was one GW memeber that got one right when it came out. He replaced his Vinotemp with it because the Vinotemp was way too loud for him. The KA is extremely quite while running. When it was new, I could hear the relay that controls when the fridge kicks on, but that softened up after a couple months. The appliance guy said that was normal for that type of relay (which is the "better" kind to have anyway). We bought our in spring 2007 and paid ~$900 for the panel ready model. An added bonus is that the beverage section actually goes down to 37; many (if not most) beverage fridges have thier lowest temperature at 40. Anything above 40 is not food safe, so I wouldn't feel comfortable storing opened juice, or cut fruit in there.

Since the Stages sinks have integrated cutting boards and prep accessories, I think it will be functional in the island, especially if you can make the island longer. It occurred to me that if you can move the entry as far to the right as possible, you could have a more direct route from back door to kitchen, and separate the clean-up and prep/cooking zones, while still having a secondary prep zone on the end of the island, convenient to water at the clean-up sink. This plan would also eliminate the blind corner, and leave room for the second oven. If you decide on the smart oven, it and a MW (or is it a combo?) could be located just inside the entry. (See alternate plan.) The drawback would be that the walk to the pantry is a little farther from the primary prep zone. Can you cut back or remove the jog at the end of the hallway wall? That would give you a more space for the range wall. Alternately, you could have a shared trash pull-out on the corner by the range, and have a MW drawer across from the fridge. If you don't opt for the second oven beside the entry, there will be room for an extra prep zone beside the clean-up sink.

Advice if a Perlick is chosen and you have to install it yourself. (a) it is much easier to move it if you first remove the door (very simple) and the shelves and shelf glides (fairly simple) (b) keep in mind that when it slides along the floor into position, changes can occur to the adjustable support pads, and also that the floor may not be the same under the counter. Hence, level outside, move inside, measure level in three axes, pull out and set the pads to the approximate negative of any mis-level at the installed position, try again. Unlike SZ refrigerator/freezers, the back pads can't be adjusted from the front. (c) cabinets can look very square to the line of the wall but not be, and this will affect the Perlick alignment at the front as well as the door opening. Square up all cabinets relative to the line defining the cabinet fronts before bonding the counter to the cabinets. (d) countertop should be deep enough to allow the cabinets to be located a bit away from the wall behind them. Mine is 29.5 inches deep, but I had some stuff to avoid behind the 24-inch cabinets.