If the doors are to be painted it is not all that hard to plug the existing hole and then move it to the required back set. It just takes time. A hole saw to cut a plug, some Minwax High Performance Filler to attach the plug in the old hole and smooth out the surface on both sides, then bore a new hole. The existing hole is trough internal blocking in the door already. It may well cost as much as a 'commodity quality' hollow core door though. Labor hours are expensive. Buying materials without a complete knowledge of nomenclature and use often results in the wrong item being purchased. You might have been able to swap the doors for true slab doors if they had not been modified in any way not a single screw hole, brand new condition).

HI all and HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!!!! The deck is done!!!! We celebrated Mother's Day and my birthday with Alaska King crab and all the fixins our gorgeous deck today!!!! The sun was shining and it was lovely!! It's been 9 months in the making and worth every month because it is BEAUTIFUL!!! My hubby did a fantastic job.....We will paint (stain) the floor area tomorrow and then just spend the rest of the summer enjoying it. I have to get busy on more pots for flowers... Here is a link that might be useful: Finished brich deck rails

I'm not going to lift any 4x8 sheet of plywood anywhere. I'm going to pay the guy at the desk for my plywood, hand him my cut sheet, and then I'm going to go in the back and stand around while the guys who work the lumberyard's panel saw wrestle it around and cut it into 6.5" and 10" boards. I'm pretty sure I mentioned the lumberyard's panel saw. (I love their panel saw--it's got this huge room all to itself, with big long guides, etc. It does a beautiful job ripping plywood into boards--they've done it for me before, and the edges were beautiful. In my next life I want to live in Alabama and have a separate two-car garage, like my brother, so I can install a humongous panel saw, just because I can.) I personally only have to wrestle the 8'-long boards onto my FIL's table saw, or I will use the Kreg cutting jig w/ my jigsaw. I can lift just fine--I can't necessarily grip something sort of heavy that is biting into wood, and steer it. Maybe I'd be OK w/ a lightweight or small table saw. I like your suggestions about crosscutting, though. The first sheet lends itself to that very easily. I'll have to look at sheet #2 and see if I can minimize the number of cuts. It means paying the lumberyard for more cuts (since I can do the crosscuts on the boards easily enough), especially since by crosscutting the sheet, then I pay for twice as many rips. I also run the risk of them reading the cut sheet wrong and leaving me w/ pieces that don't work--that's been my experience w/ all sorts of things. I feel confident w/ my knowledge of what each board should turn into, so I don't really want to delegate that to someone else. I had planned to cut all the 50.5" pieces at once, so that if the guide is the tiniest bit off, at least they'll all be exactly the same size and so that I don't have to keep resetting the guides. Just because unit is boards doesn't mean I'm going to cut one board into all of its sizes all at once. I can set the excess aside while I continue the 50.5" cuts, and then do all the 18"-ers or 16.5"-ers at once. I figure the only real problem is keeping track of what piece is supposed to come out of what board--and that's what blue painter's tape and a marker (or a carpenter's pencil) is for, right? Isn't there a way to prevent veneer rip-out when crosscutting plywood? Doesn't everybody have to crosscut plywood at some point? For this project, I don't care--it's a closet shelf. But I'm curious. This post was edited by talley_sue_nyc on Mon, Jul 29, 13 at 12:06

Yup, set the jig for 1 1/2" and use 2 1/2" coarse thread screws (coarse threads are for soft woods used in construction lumber). Your owners manual should cover how to set up the jig. If you can't find it, you can always download one from Kreg.