Instead of running the narrower subway all the way to the floor, have you considered a wider ("taller") tile for the first course, to simply act as a baseboard or transitional piece from floor-to-field? Doesn't have to be an actual baseboard type of tile, or even a contrasting tile. The tile can be the same color as the subway should you prefer it to blend. It can be a simply 6" or 8" square field tile from the same manufacturer. As you know, blending colors may help with hiding a discrepancy, contrasting colors can accentuate it. On the flip side, you could separate the base from the field with a liner or some other detail that melds with details you have higher on the wall, at the chair rail for instance. Again, if the liner contrasts, it may accentuate. A basic 6" square tile, or to keep the subway shape, a 6" tall rectangle, would absorb the floor slope better than a "shorter" tile like your current subways. A 6" tile going from 5" to 6" would hide the discrepancy better than a small subway field tile going from 2" to 3". An 8" tile from 7" to 8" might be even better. If you were to use a true base cove tile like a sanitary cove base, use a basic sanitary instead of a shouldered sanitary, as the shoulder will be cut off due to the slope and that could create lippage or padding out issues as you go down the wall. Sometimes I've even used a taller painted wood baseboard to transition from a sloped floor to the field tile on the wall. An 8" tall wood baseboard scribed from say, 7" to 8" to hide the floor slope, with cap and base detailing, would pretty much hide any height discrepancy from the slope/scribing. The easiest and least expensive "all tile" solution would probably be a basic 6" square tile, scribed and cut from 6" to 5" as needed.

I would vote for smaller and higher as well. The other thing to think about is not only in the day, but at night, when the window is backlit. Do you really want the image of someone sitting down and then standing back up again, projected outside to guests? We have a window in our bathroom that faces our neighbor's dining room and kitchen about 8' away (city living!) and I made sure it was smaller and located away from the toilet. I did a paper mock-up to determine the size and that helped quite a bit.

Thank you cpartist & suzanne_m I went to my architect and moving the entrance to my MBR is a no go at this point. She was impressed with the MBA design to square off the wall and move my bathroom fixtures around. I totally understand about the towers taking over and I like the look but I'm only going to do a six foot run with two sinks so I think it would be too cramped to have one in the center. I also plan on doing a frosted glass door in WC for some natural light. She suggested I do a a small tray ceiling in bath to match the bedroom since it's easy enough to do since this part is an extension. My Hall bathroom I will have the shower on the back wall with the sink and toilet on one side and some storage on the opposite side. Although she forgot and drew the door too far over. But I can handle that with the contractor. Thanks again I have attached a photo. Kind of hard to see fixtures on it.

Yes, The mirror will be lower. I think we are doing wainscot on the bottom half of wall and there will be a small chair rail but I told the carpenter that the mirror will have to be lower. Funny, the tiffany pendant you sent is one that I actually bookmarked today! I like all of your ideas. I like the glass flush mount a lot too. My husband will not like the two on one idea. - Everything with him has to be symmetrical Ha ha! Thank so much for your advice!!!