i have the same problem with my black beauty mulberry: 2 years of age and about 3 feet tall, and presumably like monsoon's, i got it from burntridgenursery.com mine actually fruits every year, as soon as it buds in spring. But the fruits don't go past the red color, and drops before they turn purple. As everyone had indicated here, quite likely too young to bear fruits to maturity. It only had heart-shaped leaves in 2013, in 2014, it developed the three-lobed leaves typical of figs and jackfruit trees, so i presume this new development indicates it has reached puberty, and hopefully, adulthood. I also have a couple of noir of spain black mulberries, and they too are doing the same exact things as the black beauties, bearing fruits, but subject to fruit-drop before turning purple. however, there are two varieties of mulberries which will produce fruits to maturity on the same year they have been planted, and at really tiny sizes. our pakistani mulberry actually produced mature fruits on its first year of being planted, at nothing more than a couple of feet tall, and just a spindly scrawny little stem, which even endured having its leaves stripped by the neighborhood kids. Since i don't fertilize any of my mulberries, quite likely that yammine's may have been getting extra doses of nitrogen, encouraging growth, but might inhibit fruiting. the dwarf gerardi mulberry is even more precocious, and will bear huge berries at almost every node of its 9" stem, just a couple of month after i unpacked it from the fedex box. dwarf gerardi's have very short internodes. .i am growing them in las vegas, so it could be the relatively high temps we have during spring which influence such 'behaviors'

You did discover the problem. Many reports have been posted on this web site, which list that a tree often times will survive if planted too deeply, but even though it survives, its growth and development will be stunted. It is good to know that the rootflair is not circling and in good form. When you raise the tree, use a heavy tonged short handled garden fork and pack lots of soil beneath the rootball. Try to do this from one or two sides only, so you will not have to raise the root ball completely out of the soil. Your tree should end up being high enough that the soil level covering the rootball is just under the spot on the trunk where the topmost root of the rootfare is growing out of that trunk. Then once the base soil is compacted enough not to settle more and over time not to let the tree sink too low again; simply dig away enough soil from one side of the root ball so you can use a sharp knife to cut about and inch deep from the top of the rootball to the bottom. After doing that, fill the dirt back in on that side of the rootball. Repeat the digging, cutting, and filling back in process for three more times, until you end up having made 4 cuts evenly space all around the rootball. Finally, pound three 6 feet tall "T" stakes evenly space around the tree's trunk and about 10 to 12 inches away from the trunk. Secure the tree to the stakes with non bark-damaging ties, but keep the ties slack enough for the tree to still be able to sway some during prevailing winds and wind gusts. Check and adjust these ties every month, or before if it can be clearly seen that the tree needs to be adjusted to prevent too much trunk lean and/or too much sway that could make the new roots growing out from the root ball become broken out of the new soil. This breakage might occur from too much root stress if the entire length of the trunk is allowed to trunk whips back and forth with the wind. Be patient with your tree, because many reports describe sugar maples trees as being slow to establish. You will know your tree finally is well established once you begin to see it growing at least a foot each year. If you have continued to adjust the ties by tightening or loosening the slack as the tree indicates is needed; by that time when the tree shows it is well adjusted, then the tree should be able to handle the the removal of ties. After you end up doing that watch the tree, and if it does well then you can also remove the stakes. If not, you will need to retie the tree, but maybe by that time only two or one of the stakes will need to be secured to the tree with ties. If that happens then each month try to increase the slack in the ties a little more each time, until you notice the tree probably no longer needs to be staked.

Have just been noting the orange daffodils to get some for next season - Orangery, Kedron, Mordern Art and Professor Einstein are the most striking. Uploaded a bunch of pictures to my blog Posts Daffodil Dilemmas and Differing Daffodils). Haven't posted much here since my move to the mountains (there are so few colder zone CA folks posting) - every time I edit and fix my zone (now 7) it resets, hmnn. New love for orange as well. Coppers and oranges blend more with the summer brown landscape around me - the pink cottage thing looks wrong here. Here is a link that might be useful: mists and enchantments my blog

Yep, they sometimes have seeds. The most common theory is that the flower was pollinated and seeds formed as the fruit developed.