As a professional contractor there are several factors when deciding on a stain and the process used. Before applying a new stain, the existing stain needs to be removed. If its the same type of stain with the same color and its completely run its course, (usually within 2-3 years) then you can just clean and re-apply over that existing stain. If your changing colors or type of stain, it needs to be completely removed. The best method for applying stain is the old fashion way, by brushing. I dont recommend rolling or spraying for three reasons. One, the prep time needed with taping off and covering areas etc. which can take several hours. Two, when rolling or spraying you have to back brush anyway so the labor time spent is just as long and three, it simply looks much better. Always try to stick with oil based semi-transparent stains. They are the easiest to remove and re-apply, they look the best and provide the best type of coverage for both UV and water protection. Finally, the best overall professional grade wood preservative or sealant is TWP. Comes in several colors, provides a lower VOC and applies like warm butter. The cleaning and prep process is more important than applying the stain itself so be sure you properly clean the wood with an oxygenated bleach (DO NOT USE CHLORINATED BLEACH). Its a powder form that can be easily mixed into a 5 gal. bucket of water. Spray on with a garden sprayer, let dwell about 15-20 minutes then rinse off at low pressure with a pressure washer (800-1000psi). Second step is to neutralize the cleaner with a wood brightener. Spray on with a garden spray, wait 5 min. then rinse off. You will be amazed that when you apply the brightener wood will literally lighten in front of your eyes. This brings the wood back to its natural PH and that is a critical step often missed. After you have rinsed (and be sure you rinse thoroughly) let dry for 48-72 hours then apply the stain. ONE COAT ONLY! Today's stains only need one coat applications especially oil based stains. Hope this helps...good luck with your project! Here is a link that might be useful: Professional Power Washing Contractor

HI Mom ! its ok thread hijack is normal over here. TWP 100 series,I use the 116 on ipe, is a build coat finish at that poing the twp Folks and I agree. It's after the second coat they call wet on wet, I love saying that, that we differ. They,twp Folks there is a corp 20 miles from my shop, refuse to acknowledge or even talk about how I build coats with their product. Even after coming over and seeing it with their own eyes. I do it this way>> dont wait for anything but good weather to put the finish on a new outdoor project. Using twp 100 series put the first coat on right away put the second coat on, using the sprit of a sound mind, when you can that is not while its still wet to touch.Then leave it alone. You can put the second coat on in an hour,a day, a week well you get the idea I have found the first go around with outdoor finish will not last all that long no matter what you use. Come the early Spring clean up your deck and put on another coat or two durning good weather. The more coats the longer it takes to set up so be ready for that. Twp 100 series has not changed in 20 + years. I have not changed the way I put it on in 12 years. You can build coats with it to the point of a simi gloss with no pealing,lifting at all and you Never have to strip it off. The ol JonMon is signing off now, here is hoping all your beer never goes flat,your kids are above adverage,the irs sees it your way,your Harley is still runing good and Everyone at least one time in their life gets to taste a green chilli from New Mexico. J.

A lot of deck finish Contractors recomend a two stage prep for a new S American deck,like Ipe or Garapa. I my own self do not see the need to do this using the twp finish after maney years installling the lumber. I dont think anyone recomends a prep on new pt decking including me. Dont wait for anything but good weather to put the finish on pt material. I dont get involved any more on what outdoor finish is better or the best. I got way too much S$i%% doing it in the past. I only know what I am going to use and that it works for me and has for many moons. Its completly possible to putty any fastener hole, a good idea if you do this is put a coat of finish on first, that way the color of the putty wont leach into the untreated lumber.

Jim, I just cant see you diging up really old posts, going on and on about it, with out some type of goal. Exactley what are you trying to prove??? Go to my site, All the ipe projects have 116 on them. As you can see they are not Red or Redwood or anything close to that. Saying it is makes me Mad clear and simple. Now if you put 116 on say preasure treated,garapa or any light color wood then Yes its going to come out a different color than 116 on ipe. This is basic 101 wood finish. Any of the resin base twp products can be mixed together to come up with a different color. I have used combos like that when puting finish on Garapa and other woods. I put cedar tone natural on ipe one time because the Wallet asked for it the result was bad but I did what they wanted however for ipe its most always the 116. Ipe itself is not one color it ranges from almost black to a light tan 116 levals out the differances but the result is not Red. Any color chip you get from Any finish store is going to be different on another kind of wood other than the wood used on the chip you cant expect them to have samples of finish on every kind of product. Just get off it Man. Its up to the Customer to know if one finish is the right one for them. There is no way twp is showing product online / samples / or color chips that dont match up with what they sell. You might not agree with what they call it if so just pick another name for your self and call it that but it Defentley is what they say it is and what they say they sell is what they sell. The JonMon has been a little tense latley after a long term project was real hard on me. This is a mixed site if I could I would edit my last response but O Well. J.