SHOP PRODUCTS
Houzz Logo Print
karenmaness_gw

Ipe deck stain job with Restore-a-Deck and TWP116 - 1 year later

karenmaness
16 years ago

Last summer we used the Restore-A-Deck process on our 3 month old ipe deck, then followed this with one well-worked-in coat of TWP 116 rustic. We followed the RAD process carefully and spent hours on the staining process  applying finish, letting it soak in, working it in with a brush, then wiping off excess board by board. I feel like we did as good a job as we possibly could have. Initially the deck looked beautiful, rainwater beaded up nicely, etc. However, after a few months water quit beading up and the rich color faded somewhat, neither of which was terribly surprising or unexpected. We knew that ipe is a dense wood that doesnÂt take up stain readily like other less dense woods, so we knew that the finish wouldnÂt look brand new forever. Now that it has been about 15 months since the finish was applied, the rich reddish color is all but gone and we have some black stuff "growing" on our railing and in some places on the deck floor. The entire deck is in full sun except one part that is covered by a roof. The black stuff is on parts of the deck that are in the sun, none of it is under the roof. What could this black stuff be?

I will say that we had some instances of bad luck during the staining process. There were sections of the deck that did not get much dry time before a light rain would come through, etc. Those "isolated T-storms" in the forecast seemed to be waiting for us to stain a section of deck! Could this be why the finish hasn't lasted and why we have black stuff?

Any guidance on what do we do now? Should we try RAD again (2 steps or just oxalic acid wash) and more TWP? Should we change our technique or the products we are using? What is the best bet for getting a finish to last as long as possible? I've attached some pictures below. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

The newly-stained deck last summer:

The deck as of this morning:

The black stuff on the railing:

Comments (41)

  • john_hyatt
    16 years ago

    For 15 months that finish looks normal, I also see some water/rain stains on the deck also normal. The decking looks like ipe but the cap rail dosent Im pretty sure that is another S American lumber.

    The twp finish has lasted for as long as a person could demand.Never use anything with thompsons on the lable.

    Keep in mind the way I use twp 116 is not remomended by the twp Folks. One of the main twp mang office is 20 miles from my house and we have talked several times.

    With that as a given twp116 is a build coat finish I have found the first coat/or the wet on wet thing will last about the same as you have posted. Its time for another coat on your project I suggest a light oxalic acid wash/good cleaning on the deck,same with the rial system but be very carefull around the alum balusters. The cap rial will have to be sanded. Depending on the weather in a week or so put another coat on,this one will take longer to set up so do a test area to find out how long.

    Your goal will be what I have done on my deck out back of Butler Manor it has around 5 coats,the cap rail has 7 or so and is now up to a simi gloss with no lifting/pealing/cracking I was pushing the stuff just to see what it would do. I did all this 6 years ago,its just now showing signs of needing a touch up on the deck,the rail system including the copper balusters that got 3 coats of twp are just fine.

    Karen,also keep in mind this is what I did,and have done for a lot of years using the twp 116. The weather exchange over here in Cow Town provides a clear positive test in any area short of the polor ice cap or the highway from Phonix to Fresno. Building coats with twp requires time,work,good weather it can be built up to a long lasting outdoor fininsh. I have never had to strip the twp finish off any of my Wallets projects but I do this for a living and I have a lot of years under my tool belt with indoor/outdoor finish projects. But to tell you the facts>> It really is not all that big a thing

  • Related Discussions

    Pics of 4 yr old ipe deck with only one coat of stain - yuk!

    Q

    Comments (4)
    Woodrich brightner ,oxalic base with a buffer, with what we call a scrub n rub I use a hand brush like you can buy at the supermarket put on some gloves splash the stuff on and scrub. This would be for the rail system and the skirting. Add the brightner to the water not the water to the brightner. Water wash it all off with a garden sprayer, All of it. Remember your not trying to remove the finish just the crud the wash effect will happen on contact even tho you wont see it. For the deck itself I use a 14'' floor machine with a scrub pad stuck on this goes very quickley. If you cant find one of those use a handled deck brush finish off the corners with the hand brush. Be tidie around the alum balusters thay are power coated but just be carefull. Sand with an orbital sander 60 grit pads where needed if the little sharp whiskers come up. The covered area will always be in different shape then the rest nothing to do about that. Woodrich was crafted from twp nither need stripping just another coat after cleaning I advise two coats using the sprit of a sound mind , that is waiting for the first one to set up, and another come late spring. after trying a test area first. And Dont Wait so long for a recoat!!!!!!!!!!! Ghesssssssss. J.
    ...See More

    what to do with ipe deck??? Stain, treatment?

    Q

    Comments (18)
    Master Deckers (Hyatt & PressurePro) - many moons (May 05)ago I asked about attaching ipe to metal. Your advice was sound and the deck is finally complete and rock solid. I've finished plugging, and plugging, and plugging the plethora of screw holes. I stained the railings and the pergola last year and they seemed to be holding very nice - although I will have to do the railings again. I've sheared the heads of the plugs and am ready to sand the deck (around 700 square feet on two tiers). The local hardware store rents a drum floor sander. Good to use? What grit? I've waited a year so now the wood has gone a little silver in the Texas sun. Should I keep sanding until I get down to natural color, or sand until smooth and use PressurePro's cleaning and brightening solution to bring back the beautiful ipe color? I did the railings and pergola in TWP 100 and plan to use this on the sanded deck. PressurePro - been to your website - looks good. Now that I've waited a year
    ...See More

    Bad deck restain job or old deck?

    Q

    Comments (7)
    That looks pretty bad. What type of wood is that? Looks like it is a hardwood, possibly IPE. Did he do any prep prior to staining? Doesn't look like it. He should have stripped, cleaned, & then brighten prior to staining. The Woodrich stain website has some pretty good instructions & videos on how restoring a deck should be done. http://www.woodrich-brand.com/Woodrich_Brand_Deck_Cleaners_Sealers_and_Stains_s/37.htm Looks like it would need the HD-80 stripper/cleaner instead of the weaker EFC-38 light stripper/cleaner. Then use the Citralic brightener/neutralizer, then stain it. Woodrich makes a good stain for hardwoods, I like the Amaretto color. TWP116 rustic brown is also a very good stain.
    ...See More

    Ipe deck - natural no stain. A viable option?

    Q

    Comments (31)
    Our ipe has never been treated. The part in the sun has great color restore with just scrubbing or power washing. But the portion under our arbor (much less sun) stays gray when we power wash. Go figure. Everything I have read indicates it will not hold a stain more than one season. And the stain “washes off” when wet, and leaves streaks. (What happened when we first installed). I love it anyway and glad we do not have redwood. Has been in for at least 15 years and no problems.
    ...See More
  • deckman22
    16 years ago

    I tell my customers to put a second coat of stain on ipe in about 6 months then once a year. You can not expect stain to last more than that on ipe or any wood for that matter outside.

    I would clean & and apply another coat of twp as John stated above.

    Those black spots do not look like mold or something growing on your rail cap. It looks like rust stains. That happens if someone was cutting some sort of steel & the fragments got on there then it got wet. It can happen overnight with only the morning dew. Are those black spot in one area or on the entire rail? If not rust stains then possibly something coming of the neighboring trees.

    Al

  • karenmaness
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    The black spots are scattered all over the entire rail, and there are a few patches of it on the deck boards, too. We really don't have many trees around this deck. A couple of maples but they are 20 feet away or so.

    Regarding what we do now... this is what I'm hearing, please let me know if I've got it right:

    First, we need to sand the rail cap (to get rid of the black stuff?). Is sanding by hand okay or do we need to find an electric sander to use? What grit do you think? What is our goal in the sanding process - to remove all the black stuff or just sand down to smooth wood?

    Second, we need to clean and wash with oxalic acid. We used the full blown restore-a-deck process the first time. This time, do we just need to squirt of the deck really well (gentle use a pressure washer? aggressive use of a garden hose?) to consider it clean? I have rinsed it off several times in the last year with the hose and don't feel that it is really dirty or anything. Do we need to do something other than water wash to accomplish the cleaning step, though? And then we do the oxalic acid... I do remember doing this last year. Wasn't hard but we had to keep the balusters and plants wetted down. I don't have any of the RAD stuff left - can I just get this at Lowe's?

    Then, wait a week or so for the deck to dry out well.

    Finally, apply another coat of TWP. John, could you describe the wet on wet approach? This is what we did the first time: used a paint brush to brush on a generous layer of stain, waited a few minutes, worked over it with the brush some more, waited a few minutes more, then wiped off any excess with a painter's rag. How would we change this process to use the wet on wet?

    Thanks for all the help and advice!!

  • john_hyatt
    16 years ago

    I am remembering the name of the material I think is on your cap rail>>CumaruI can see no reason to go with the complete rad thing again but its up to you. Its the scrubing that cleans the deck the oxalic is a brightner and it dries things out so the finish takes a little better. I dont use a power washer at all. Clean = no dirt or mildew on your project.

    That cap rail will need a good sanding I recomend a random orbit with 60/80 grit pads. Get it as smooth as the decking is.

    TWP guys call puting the second coat on right away wet on wet. I go for building light coats with twp finish there is never any reason for me to wipe off anything,that equals taking off the finish that just went on.

    I use a paint pad on a pole for the deck,brush the rails. With the pad the finish is rubbed in as you go with any excess pushed along to the next area.Doing the rails first go back when the brush is dry to brush out any runs. John

  • mike13
    16 years ago

    In addition to John's comment of "Keep in mind the way I use twp 116 is not remomended by the twp Folks. " supposedly the TWP people have communicated to some people in this forum that TWP is NOT recommended for IPE at all.

    If you look at their website they say it is for hardwood decking (that should include IPE but supposedly IPE is an exception due to its density), teak, & mahogany. But they never say IPE.

    I used Messemer's the first time on my IPE deck. It looked good, the color held fast for a fair amount of time, but black spots developed & then I found out their product did not include a mildewcide.

    The second time I was choosing between TWP & Woodzotic (same manufacturer as the RAD you used). I ended up going with Woodzotic as I heard the TWP does not recommend their product for IPE. Woodzotic is new but I thought I'd risk it. So far, so good but it's only been about 6 months. I do prefer the darker reddish brown color of TWP rustic & Messmer's to the reddish orange color of Woodzotic but it kind of grows on you. Plus I think Ken of Woodzotic is trying out some new formulas w/ variations of the color.

    The problem you would have is you would need to strip all the TWP off before using a different stain like Woodzotic.

    Your original deck pictures looks great. Too bad there does not appear to be a stain that can keep that look for more than 1 year or so without having to be redone. We'll see if the Woodzotic holds up better. I plan to do as Al suggested above & apply a second coat in the next few weeks then hopefully only once per year thereafter.

  • dooer
    16 years ago

    One other thing. If the spots on your rail cap are indeed mold, you have to do more then sand off. I've been told that the spores will remain even after sanding. You need to use either a bleach solution or a cleaner that has a mold killer in it.

    Mark

  • john_hyatt
    16 years ago

    See how you are, ghessss try to tell a person something and what happens.It could be possible to not have to strip Ken's stuff to put on twp they have a simular base.

    Mark I agree just sanding will not take away those pesky mold spores. But really I still think that top rail is Cumaru I have seen that before the stuff begins to behave after the first weather exchange if a good sanding/cleaning/finish is done.J.

  • mjh5
    16 years ago

    Karen,

    If you are unsure if the black spots are mildew you can do a test: dab a few drops of household bleach on a small area of black spots. If the black spots disappear in a few minutes then you have mildew. This can then be cleaned off using either an oxygen bleach such as RAD part 1 or by using a diluted solution (1:4) of bleach to water with a dash of liquid dishwashing soap added. Oxalic acid does not kill mildew.

    Your finish on the deck looks sufficiently worn that you should be able to put any new finish down including Woodzotic. I use Cabot's Australian Timber Oil because I prefer the redder color of their Mahogany Flame on my Ipe deck. Having said that I have to re-stain every year. I found that the second year I stained the finish lasted somewhat longer probably because some of the color from the first application remained in the wood.

    Marty

  • dssxxxx
    16 years ago

    Bump.

  • bfhogan
    15 years ago

    I have a similar problem. I had a professional that stained with Cabots Stain for IPE and Hardwoods. The stain basically sits on top of the wood rather than penetrate. The bigger problem for us is that any dirt in the air, shoes, etc collects on the stain and makes the deck look terrible. Have been searching for a product (like polyurethane) that will make the deck look like it does when it rains! The wood tones are beautiful. I have the deck stained each year, far more expensive than I expected.

  • oklahomagreg
    15 years ago

    Karen,
    Not to get off topic but was the RAD system as easy as it sounds? I'm getting ready to use the same product/different name on my deck and thought I'd see how the RAD process itself went. Thanks, Greg

  • andersog
    15 years ago

    I just redid my mahogany deck with RAD and Messmers. The RAD works as advertised- my suggestion is not to use a pressure washer, but to just use the material at full strength and a stiff brush. You will see the remaining stain come right off. The only challenge is when you have to get under railings and in other tight areas.

    I followed with the brightener, then waited 2 days and stained. It actually took more stain than the first time I stained.

    Note regarding dirt/mold- I've always been told that any dirt that gets on the deck before staining can lead to black spots- hence I roped off the deck after cleaning and took my shoes off when I actually went on it to stain.

  • karenmaness
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    My how time flies... I originally posted this in Oct 07 and here we are in May 09 and we still haven't done anything to our deck!! I think our lifestyle is too busy to have put in an ipe deck, upon reflection. But oh well, we have it and greatly enjoy it but it needs to be restained more than ever. I was getting ready to order the restore-a-deck product again since that is what we used with success in Jul 06 when we stained the deck the first time. However, I saw a thread of posts from a year ago where the RAD system and woodzotic were unavailable for while with no communication from Ken? I wondered how that stood now that we're a year down the road. I did like the RAD system and would like to use it again if he's got his supply issues worked out. Also, what's the latest on Woodzotic? Our old TWP 116 finish is all but gone and I might like to try something else this time around. Does anyone have any updated info on RAD or Woodzotic?

  • bdobs
    14 years ago

    POst some pics of your deck in its current state. I'd be interested to see an Ipe deck after nearly three years w/ no staining.

    Brian

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Me too.

    As it turned out the ol Ken was just relabling the actual Co that made the products was>> www.woodrich-product.com

  • karenmaness
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I'll post a pic or two if this rain ever stops. I honestly don't think it looks a whole lot different from the 1 yr pics.

    So any news on the Woodzotic? Back when I was looking at it before it was brand new and only came in 1 color. Anyone have experience to share on how it holds up over time?

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Karen,,,there is no woodzotic no mo. Reread. Reread again.

    The Man was just relabling, that is he bought the rights to sell Woodrich under a diferent Lable.It was not new at all. Ghesssssssssss thats business thats progress. J.

  • karenmaness
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Ah, I get it now. Hmm. From his website it looks like he is still selling restore-a-deck? But from some other posts I read, this was also a re-label?

    We used TWP 116 the first time and it just didn't last nearly long enough for all the hours we put into it (that's how I felt about it anyway). I'm afraid that it will probably be an every 3 year kind of thing with us, in terms of getting a stain on our deck. So given that, and the fact that we can't start over with timbertech, what would you recommend we do to protect our wood and make it look nice for as long as possible? Or should we just give up and let it gray? Other than the aesthetics, is there a downside to that approach (wood deterioration, etc.)?

  • karenmaness
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    No, I'm not complaining about having to refinish my deck every 3 years. I'm commenting that having to put a finish on every 8 months or so to keep it looking nice is not feasible for us, and I'm wondering what our best course for the future is.

    What I am saying is that realistically it will probably be about every 3 years that we can carve out the time to do deck maintenance. Hindsight is 20/20, but we would have been better off with a composite I do believe. However, that ship has sailed, so the question is - what do we do now.

    With TWP the finish lasted 6 months so we could have done nothing and had about the same deck that we've had for the last 3 years and saved ourselves the trouble. I'm trying to decide if it is worth it to finish it again this year, knowing that in 6 months I'll be back where I started more or less. The holy grail is the ipe-compatible finish that lasts at least 2 years. That may not exist, but that's my question.

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    TWP 100 series is a Build Coat Finish done corectley and your good for 3-5 years.

    Ipe deck with out any finish at all life span>>>> over 50 years.

    Ipe deck with well done twp 100 series finish life span= over 50 years.

    J.

  • rajohnson
    14 years ago

    I have a cedar deck I built 2 years ago. I stained it with Sikkens SRD, but now I see that was a mistake. The spindles and rail posts still look fine, but the decking and handrails look terrible. I bought Sikkens because a friend told me it was the best thing on the market, and I wouldn't have to restain as often as with other products. He's still my friend, but I won't take any more advice from him about deck stain.

    The finish on the deck boards has disappeared in about 10% of the decking. The part that has not disappeared is just a dull brown, as opposed to the rich cedar color it started with. Also, there are some (but not many) spots where the stain is shiny, like it never soaked in completely.

    I would like to stain it with another product, so my two questions are (1) how to prepare the deck, and (2) what stain to use.

    I have read horror stories about removing Sikkens, but since most of my decking has soaked in completely, maybe I won't have as much trouble as some people have had. Restore-A-Deck seems to have a good reputation. Has anyone used it on Sikkens?

    Once the decking is cleaned, does anyone have a suggestion as to which stain to use for cedar? A lot of people like Cabot. I have seen TWP mentioned a lot here, but I know nothing about it.

    Thanks,
    Rich

  • john_hyatt
    14 years ago

    Rich, and all you good folks, there is no more restore a deck,its over,gone, not happing anymore, faded away, lost in the sand, gone the way of the DoDo,same as the ironhead Sportster, completley get it out or your head.......Thing.

    Ken was relabling this product>>>www.woodrich-product.comCan we start another thread for this??? 07 is a little much. J.

  • heyhandymanpete_yahoo_com
    14 years ago

    I have an Ipe deck and have used Penofin, Mesmers and Cabot stains. They all claim to be the best and they all look really good for about 4-5 months no matter how much careful prep you do (I live near Cleveland, OH).The deck is in full sun and fully exposed to the elements. While the Ipe lasts forever, I've found it to be so dense that nothing really penetrates into the wood.

    About 7-8 years ago I found a product called Spa and Deck (it's now owned by the Flood Co). It's a two step acrylic coating that shows the grain of the wood but makes it look like finished furniture. I put on two finish coats.

    There is a learning curve with the application of the product but this stuff has been great. I've retouched it, not redone it, twice since it was originally applied and it still looks great. Apparently Spa and Deck was made to protect docks and wood that was battered by salt water and the elements.

    Maybe next year I'll strip the deck and re-coat it, but maybe not. I've been really satisfied and with and enthusiastic about this product.

  • scotkight
    14 years ago

    Have any pictures of your ipe with spa and deck applied? Can you give any pointers since you say it has a learning curve?

  • ghall2001
    14 years ago

    Pete,

    I assume from your description that Spa and Deck is just a finish coating and not a stain, right? So does your ipe deck look grey, but with a semi-gloss finish?

  • cj_8_jim
    13 years ago

    For future readers...
    Just be forewarned, TWP 116 (low VOC version of TWP 516 -- both named rustic oak) looks like redwood... not oak.

    Unfortunately, I have 2 unused 5 gallon containers of TWP116 (I'm in the Chicago suburbs).

    Let me know if anyone is interested in buying it from me (click on my user name in this post and then click "send me an email").

    If I could do it over on my Ipe deck, I'd use TWP 120 Pecan.

    Jim

  • deckman22
    13 years ago

    You know Jim if you want to sell your left over stain here fine, but quit misleading folks about the color. TWP rustic does not look like redwood. If you had put on the pecan color it would look just like the rustic after a years time, brown.

  • john_hyatt
    13 years ago

    Actually the 100 series twp is the high voc product with the 500 series being the low voc. J.

  • john_hyatt
    13 years ago

    And really, what does oak look like??

    Red oak is red with some blond highlites, white oak is hmmmmm...white and then theres swamp oak, northen oak, southern oak...and of course my personal....Oak--ies that come in all sorts of colors.

    I dont see your reason to whine all this much Jim, unless you just want to unload some product. J.

  • cj_8_jim
    13 years ago

    Deckman22 and John Hyatt -
    Tut tut. I'm quite surprised at your response -- I was expecting more from you... something more professional.

    You are off base accussing me of misleading folks.

    TWP 100 series seems like a great product and I don't regret using it.

    What I do regret is my assuming TWP 116 rustic oak is brown (like the manufacturer's website indicates) when in reality on ipe, it is red... like redwood.

    Facts:
    1) The manufacturer even admits that on Ipe, 116 is red, not brown like it is on: cedar, PT
    2) Other consumers have also been disappointed with seeing 116 turn out red on Ipe:
    a) http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/porch/msg031855158399.html
    b) Even Mr. Hyatt in this old post states:
    -"Rustic for red/brown, cedartone natural/dark oak three parts ct two parts do for a brown color."
    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/porch/msg0321480224176.html
    -"TWP 116 rustic,or for a brown color 2 parts dark oak 3 parts cedar tone natural." http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/porch/msg08091750956.html

    Here's the manufacturer's color swatch. If others are saying red on ipe, but the color swatch shows brown. Readers of this post need to know this.
    http://www.geminicoatings.com/p/12062/default.aspx

    Jim

    P.S. Perhaps the Gemni Coatings (mfg of TWP) has a quality control issue. Or perhaps, their stain colors vary greatly depending on the species of wood it is applied to.

    a) Here's a thread where two different users (fpmr96a & andyboyd2) ended up with orange decks after applying TWP 101 Cedartone
    http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/porch/msg0923184828415.html
    b) Another thread with multiple users complaining about varying TWP colors from different TWP products (vis-a-vis the manufacturer's website) http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/diyers-ask-pros/7341-twp-color-mistake.html

    P.S.S. John you are correct... I mistype "of" when I meant to type "is". (in other postings that day, I typed "cousin of"... perhaps I accidentally ommitted "cousin".

    Either way, my 116 for someone in a state that doesn't sell it is a good deal.

  • john_hyatt
    13 years ago

    W T F are you doing.

    Total Dumbass. J.

  • cj_8_jim
    13 years ago

    Wow, I didn't expect that response from you John.

    I know that on this board and many other forums outside gardenweb.com you have HEAVILY promoted TWP stain. But I'm confused why you are taking it personally my criticism of the TWP product.

    And even with the product, I'm not taking issue with the penetrating characteristics which are good on a extremely hardwood like ipe.

    However, I do take issue with the color that Gemini Coatings promotes -- the actual color of TWP 116 when applied to ipe is really redwood and not brown as Gemini Coatings promotes on their website.
    http://www.geminicoatings.com/p/12062/default.aspx

    Plus, I've found many other compliants with other TWP stains' colors not matching the Gemini Coatings website (see post above).

    Perhaps you're having a bad day. I have those too.
    Jim

  • john_hyatt
    13 years ago

    Jim, I just cant see you diging up really old posts, going on and on about it, with out some type of goal. Exactley what are you trying to prove???

    Go to my site, All the ipe projects have 116 on them. As you can see they are not Red or Redwood or anything close to that. Saying it is makes me Mad clear and simple.

    Now if you put 116 on say preasure treated,garapa or any light color wood then Yes its going to come out a different color than 116 on ipe. This is basic 101 wood finish.

    Any of the resin base twp products can be mixed together to come up with a different color. I have used combos like that when puting finish on Garapa and other woods. I put cedar tone natural on ipe one time because the Wallet asked for it the result was bad but I did what they wanted however for ipe its most always the 116.

    Ipe itself is not one color it ranges from almost black to a light tan 116 levals out the differances but the result is not Red. Any color chip you get from Any finish store is going to be different on another kind of wood other than the wood used on the chip you cant expect them to have samples of finish on every kind of product.

    Just get off it Man. Its up to the Customer to know if one finish is the right one for them. There is no way twp is showing product online / samples / or color chips that dont match up with what they sell. You might not agree with what they call it if so just pick another name for your self and call it that but it Defentley is what they say it is and what they say they sell is what they sell.
    The JonMon has been a little tense latley after a long term project was real hard on me. This is a mixed site if I could I would edit my last response but O Well. J.

  • cj_8_jim
    13 years ago

    Mr Hyatt,
    Like I said numerous times... I'm trying to alert future users of 116. That is, so they don't make the same assumption that I did that 116 on ipe will look brown like Gemini Coating states. http://www.geminicoatings.com/p/12062/Default.aspx

    Even your deck photos of TWP 116 on Ipe do not look like the Gemni Coatings 116 color swatch at: http://www.geminicoatings.com/p/12062/Default.aspx

    Your ipe deck photos of 116 show a color more like TWP 102 Redwood than TWP 116 on the Gemini Coatings website.

    That's the point sir.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Gemini Coatings TWP 100 series color samples

  • tdaver
    13 years ago

    my opinion -

    Get a sample of the 2 or 3 stains you like and try it out on a few scrap boards. This is the only way that you are really going to know if it looks the way you want. That's how I ended up using 103 instead of 116. If you don't like how it looks and you didn't test it first, it's on you.

  • spidey8
    12 years ago

    I just had my 6 mos old ipe deck stained and instead of it looking beautiful, the semi-transparant stain not only covered up the beautiful grain, but turned most of the boards black. The deck was stained a very reputable company, I did not do it myself. There are no variances in the boards as they were when I used penofin after the deck was installed. As much as i loved the look of the penofin it lasted only 2 mos. My deck gets full sun 80% of the day. In addition to the unsightly black boards, my furniture has scratched horrible lines in the boards. Its only been 2 days! what will it look like in a month?! My question is how do I fix this problem. Would a wood stripper with sodium hydroxide work? If so, is it best to do as soon as possible? Will it weather completely away as the penofin did, and if so, how long will it take? or should I get right on it and strip it? Thanks for any inpu.

  • cas5969
    8 years ago

    i have an Ipe deck that has been sanded once a year for the last 3 years. the last oil job (california paint natural IPE oil) has turned the deck orange. I'm wondering if the oil has done it or the sanding, and how can i get the redish color back?

  • paintitall
    7 years ago

    The first step is cleaning it right. Try lime. Forget oxcalic acid on ipe. I could never get anything to work on my ipe for very long. It gets a lot of sun. Cheap stains were gone in 3 months. This deck above doesn't look bad for 15 months but it's covered so almost all the protection is the roof. To get mine glowing I had to drop the regular cleaners. Oxalic acid is great for brightening but on ipe it's acidic. The extractives in ipe are acidic. I was told this is the reason my stain kept failing in 6 months. The wood fiber was never ready to accept stain. Someone told me to try a lime cleaner so I treid the lime clean on my deck and it made a big difference. I ordered some good deck stain and it clearly soaked in more. Beautiful. It's like a wood floor now. I just roll out a clear coat on once in a while and it's deep rich and glowing,.

  • samgarthherrington
    6 years ago

    what kind of clear coat to you use and how often is "once and a while"? Thanks it sounds like you've found the right approach for Ipe.

    Routine yet simple maintenance

  • Adele Magnolia
    5 years ago

    Paintitall, what kind of lime product was used?