Here is a single KO tree rose,. Just timmed it, it was looking more scraggly b4

Another Radler rose in tree form, Carefree Sunshine. Yank, yes?

I am not a fan of tree roses, but I would replace them. Put them out of their misery.

The graft does look diseased. May I ask what the material is thats hanging on there. Hope thats not part of the rose. I would send them to rose heaven. Yank Yank Yank

Is that a rose bush up and to the left in your last pic? If yes it almost looks like rrd.

Is that Spanish Moss hanging from the standards? They appear as if they didn't have enough sun and the moss isn't helping.

We dont have RRD in Houston.

yes, Spanish moss, we hv an old oak nearby and SM falls on everything around it.

taking a break and next chore is to yank

Roses get full brutal sun all day, it's just that humidity just kills those grafts. That is why those in the know generally grow own root roses. My shrub roses are fine.

Humidity wouldn't be an issue for a bud union, but sun scald from too long exposure to too intense sun/heat would. And, it will cause the death of the wood above the scald due to the loss of circulatory system in the scald (sun burned) area.

Adios

Adios to you too

Here is the graft on the first one. Pretty bad shape but poor little tree still put on a show.

how deep did you have the root buried? it looks pretty dark fairly high up on the stem. Guessing the moss did not help the plant either. If you get another, maybe try a different location

Thank you all for your input. I won't get any more tree roses but I was intrigued about the moss. I have a climber that also gets moss from the same tree. Can you tell me why it's bad? I didn't know about that

The moss traps moisture, debris, dirt, insects and disease spores. I'm not sure if it can actually feed from a rose, but if sufficiently dense, it can shade out new growth like weedy ground covers can and it can help to trap the moisture around the canes and foliage which can make the conditions more favorable to insects and diseases.

You should probably check whether you have a cane borer in your area. We have the Pacific Flat Headed Apple Borer here in the West. You can see other sites about ithere , here and here. It attacks virtually anything and is attracted to sun burned wood. It lays its eggs around the scalded/burned area. The maggots hatch and burrow themselves under the bark where they eat the cambium layer, the circulatory system of the plant. They work their way downward, toward the bud union or roots. Once they hit that level and work their way around the cane or plant, the only remaining living part is the root system. It's entirely possible your standard damage is due to this type of issue, combined with the sun scald.

If the bark is split and black, try prying into it with a knife. If you find dried powdery tissue resembling cocoa powder, it's the "frash" or excrement of the borer maggots and used to be living circulatory system, cambium layer. Once the cambium is dead, for whatever reason (freezing, burning, physical damage from borers, girdling, bending, breaking, etc.) the tissue above it is doomed to die. Intense, direct sun shining on a point on the cane can cook the cambium layer under the bark, attracting the borers to do their jobs, or simply killing the tissue above it by starving it for sap. Humidity has nothing to do with it. In my old Newhall garden, the humidity was often single digit and the Flat Head borers were legion. The best defense against them is to keep a good foliage cover on the plants to prevent too extreme exposure to the direct sun. For standards, using the trunk protections used by orchardists for the trunks of their trees can help. White wash the trunks or wrap them in protective coverings to shield them from the direct sun. For the heads, just maintain as good a foliage cover as possible.