Sounds like you are describing mildew?

Would you happen to be able to get a picture of the offending leaves?

Here's a couple of shots. I kind of suspected mildew, but have never seen this on spiders.

Thank you for your input. Looks like I have my work cut out for me. I have six plants that are affected, so will separate them so they can be treated individually. I must be a lucky guy, as haven't seen this problem, but have heard about it.

note the photo's got 3 likes and no comments, hummmmmm

for lack of anything better to say here are 2 good websites that might help.

http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/foliage/folnotes/spider.htm
http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extnews/hortiscope/houseplnts/spider.htm

Thank you Sans2014, I'll check them out. I did get some advice, so have a few things to think about and work on.

The only information I found at those two sites about this issue is that the person who put the FAQ together didn't know what it was.

however, I did not do a thorough read through, just a lot of ctrl f, and that was only on one of them. The real sciency one: I skimmed over with my human eye and nothing caught my attention lol.

It's not uncommon for cultural stress symptoms to show up in the lighter tissues of variegated plants only. It's not being caused by an insect infestation resulting in sooty mold; actually, you can eliminate insect issues as the cause, but it IS a cultural issue. I suspect it's over-watering or a high level of salts from tap water and/or fertilizer solutions in the soil solution.

Read through the likes/dislikes of the plant's culture and see if anything strikes a chord:

I left the following on this forum recently. You may find
something of value in it:

While necrotic leaf tips or margins can occur in this plant
from over/under-watering, in fact, it's much more common for the actual cause
to be a high level of soluble salts in soils. It's also commonly reported that
this plant is particularly intolerant or fluoride, but it's still more common
for the cause of leaf burn to be a high level of solubles, to which fluoride
can be a contributor, than it is to be fluoride itself. WHEN there is a high
level of salts in the soil, low humidity can be a contributor, but low humidity
alone rarely presents an issue, it must be in combination with a high level of
soluble salts in the soil or either over/under-watering.

Of course, you cannot correct the already burned tips (they
won't 'heal'), but you can take steps to keep it from happening:

A) Most important is to use a soil that drains very freely.
This allows you to water copiously, flushing the accumulating salts from the
soil each time you water.

B) Fertilize frequently when the plant is growing well, but
at low doses - perhaps 1/4 the recommended strength (on the package). This, in combination with
the favorable watering habit described above, will keep soluble salts levels
low, and keep levels from rising due to the accumulative effect we always see
when we are forced to water in sips when plants are in water-retentive soils.

C) When watering, using rainwater, snow melt, water from
your dehumidifiers, or distilled water also eliminates the soluble salts in
your tap water and will go a long way toward eliminating or minimizing leaf
burn.

D) If you make your own soils and use perlite, be sure the
perlite is rinsed thoroughly, which removes most of the fluorides associated
with its use.

E) Allowing water to rest overnight doesn't do
anything in the way of helping reduce the amount of fluoride (the compounds are
not volatile), and it only helps with chlorine in certain cases, depending on
what method of chlorination was used to treat your tap water

Al

Thanks for the information and your time spent on your writing. I'm on the right track with everything said and understand the issues with salt, chlorine, fluoride etc... Our town is on well water and is checked for contaminants, but not treated, including the use of chlorine and fluoride, unless there are problems. Our salt level is very low and, so far, hasn't been a concern, or a problem with the plants so far. Even though I do make my own compost, it is only used for raised beds in the garden. I use a well known purchased soil combination for potted plants, which includes perlite, I monitor moisture in the potted plants with a meter and do hold watering until the soil is dry. I may let the leaves wilt, but don't let them go into stress. Having said all of that, we are in a serious drought in CA and this may be affecting the quality of the water from our wells. And, since the problem with the spider starts is new to me, that may be the area to check first. Interestingly enough though, it's only affecting the spider babies, but not the parents, nor any other of my potted plants. This is a mystery.

Maybe the babies just don't have enough root mass to absorb the amount of water they are getting? The big plants have lots of roots and so lots of water is quickly absorbed.