@michelerossi Could I therefore already carry out a repotting with pruning of the roots? The answer isn't an easy yes or no. Obviously, you can do whatever you want when you want, but that isn't always the best approach. If I had to make the decision, I would weigh a number of factors, the plant's current level of vitality, light levels, current temperatures, and whether of not I felt it was an emergency situation (whether the plant is likely or unlikely to survive (w/o repotting) until the most appropriate time to repot. You might also have other factors like your schedule or commitments to consider. If the plant is not in danger of succumbing to root rot or the congestion, I'd definitely wait until the optimum time relative to your geography and weather. Is there no need for me to wait for June as you generally indicated? It's not a matter of hard, fast rules re the timing. Instead of "can I" or "should I" repot earlier than June, the question should be what's best for the plant. In our previous discussions I outlined why repotting close to the summer solstice is best. The plant will respond most enthusiastically and recover faster when days are longest/brightest and when the plant's level of reserve energy is at or near peak. Even if the plant is doing poorly now and you feel its level of vitality won't increase between now and mid-June, I'd still wait. I think the only thing that would make me repot now (here in MI) would be if I determined the plant to have a fungal root infection. Can I proceed now even if the plant has some signs of distress as you can see from the bare lower branches (the fourth photo) or should I wait for it to recover in spring? I think I pretty much answered this question in what I wrote above. *********************************************************************************** @kitasei Should I be root pruning my yuzu trees like this?? They are in large pots. When I suggest what you should or shouldn't do, it's always from the perspective of 'what is best for the plant'. Root congestion is a far more insidious robber of growth, vitality, and the plant's ability to defend itself, than 99% of growers realize. Potting up to a larger pot is not an effective strategy for managing roots because there will always be congestion at the center of the root mass. A full repot which includes bare rooting, root pruning, and a change of grow medium completely relieves root congestion and allows the plant to return to its normal rate of growth, level of vitality, and ability to defend itself (against disease pathogens and insect herbivory). A tree that is regularly repotted will normally grow 5-10x faster and exhibit a higher level of vitality, eye appeal, and it will be more productive. If you're objective is to provide your tree with the best opportunity to maximize its genetic potential, repotting (full repots) are essential to that end. Root congestion is limiting and will always hold a plant back. The best time to repot citrus is in the early spring - just before you notice the plant is getting serious about its spring push brought on by warmer temps and brighter/ longer days. Make sure you understand how to go about the repotting process before you dive in head first. Most loss of viability subsequent to repotting is due to overlooking something that seems minor but is important. One important factor is, the roots need to be continually wet during the process. Al

If you intend to keep the maple in a container, the most important consideration is to protect the roots from severe cold. The small volume of soil in a container will freeze much more deeply than the ground and roots are generally less cold hardy than the wood. If it's possible to store the plant in a cool basement after leaf fall but before severe cold, this would be best. I think survival would be pretty doubtful in an unheated shed. Crimson Queen is quite hardy but Z4/5 doesn't seem realistic for outdoor planting, especially for a young specimen. Leaf filled protective structures can work, but unless the leaves remain dry they will lose their insulation value and invite fungal infection.

Normally, the way I store my containerized trees or shrubs is to allow them to remain outdoors until deciduous leaf loss occurs and we begin to get rather cold weather, though they are grouped on the south side of a garage. Then I move them into an unheated garage that stays closed all winter, and group the pots in plastic baby pools to keep the actual pot off the concrete. Occasionally, I would throw a shovel of snow on the pots as though they were getting the same moisture the trees growing naturally would be getting, more or less. They won't really require light until early spring, when I would begin re-acclimating them by opening the garage doors during the day, then moving them out... it's a process. I always worry about leaving the pot, itself, exposed to the frigid winds we get, without the roots buried or protected, so if I didn't have the option of enclosing them in an unheated building, I would probably opt for burying the pots and mulching them well. I hope your insulation project works well. I think it will be fine as long as it can be protected from the burning cold of winds.

Do not cut the tops if you want the trees to get taller... that would create squat trees with little upper growth but more side branching habits. I would, in your shoes let them grow on, but look at th eventual shape of each one, as an individual, not part of a group.... You may want to think about different clipping techniques, such as Bonsai, Niwaki or plain trimmed canopy.... Look at each specimen, and decide what style you consider appropriate for IT. Then trim shoots or small branches accordingly, but I think you need to be patient, and let them grow on for a couple of years before making THAT decision. Unless you're a speciaist grower, with appropriate conditions, I would not try or attempt different growing conditions to 'accelerate' growth'. Done badly, that just leads to weak plants that in the end, will struggle once they are exposed to normalised conditions. This is why so many people buying plants from standard retailers (as opposed to nursery/garden specialist outlets) complain their plants struggle once exposed to natural conditions; because the plants have been grown, cultivated and prepared for aesthetic looks and desirable instant beauty. Not long-term durability and hardiness....