Planted 12 Cuttings-NEED Help + Advice. Plz and Thanks! Images Inside
Heya,
I live in a Zone 6B. So first I should mention - I'm a complete NEWBIE!!!
My only Plumeria experience is pretty much - bought 4
cuttings last year, 2 turned to mush... 2 leaved (no flower duh!)
See images (leaves kinda turning yellow since I had to bring
them in this whole week - it's been a cold week).
Anyway- so now I bought 12 cuttings (well 9, but 3 are duplicates). I used Cactus Mix + Perlite (as close to a 1-1
mix as possible). Used "clear"
1 gallon pots. I dipped the roots in
Cloonex then placed them in the soil. I
watered the pots fully (won't water until roots show up).
Newbie mistake - I should have used more soil (didn't think
the water would push it so much lower). Also need to buy more rocks to apply pressure/stabilize
so the cutting won't move during the rooting process
Now for my questions on this...
1- I noticed some of the cuttings have "white" dots/tiny patches on the tips - I think that is fine for now - cuttings are solid (except for the Rose Red and Kimi Jr - they are a bit soft.. but I do have two of the Kimi).
2-How will I know if roots develop? They may not show up through the dirt and I don't want to dehydrate them. Do leaves show up immediately? I don't want to dehydrate
3- When do I start fertilizing them? I have Nurticote and Osmocote (both long releases).
4- How did I do? Any
advice? See images
Finally, my Rose Red... problems - it is a little soft in
the middle. However, the top/bottom is
solid *fingers crossed*
Another issue is one of the tips has shriveled up. The shriveled tip is HARD (not mush). I think the cutting is still alive. However, what should I do with it? Should I cut that tip of? If so how much/how do I do it. Any advice on this or just let it sit
Any advice/help is appreciated!
Thanks
Comments (10)
Related Discussions
HELP!!! I need advice on pump - fish - plants - winterizing
Comments (6)In response to your first question concerning the pump. What you didn't mention is the performance of the pump at different head, i.e. how much water flow does it deliver at the highest point. You also need to calculate the head loss of the piping/plumbing you use. Most pumps (at least here in the states) include a chart showing the pumps capacity at various head levels. Also keep in mind that head is measured from the water surface and not ground level. Question 2. Koi and goldfish love a strong current in the pond as long as they have some little area they can go to rest. They will often be found playing in the strong currents from a waterfall or under water return. Question 3. Koi and goldfish are "coldwater" fish and will survive winters just fine as long as you keep a small hole in the ice and the water in the pond doesn't freeze solid. They may appears listless or dead in the spring but as the water warms they almost always come. I think your pond is deep enough that you won't have to worry, especially if you keep a tank heater (like the ones farmers use it stock tanks) in the pond in winter. 4: I would use goldfish and not too many. Koi will get big and make a lot more waste than the goldfish. Oh, and don't use the "fancy" goldfish as they are not as hardy as the regular ones. 5: You can go either way on this one. Some people I know turn their pumps off other (like me) keep them running year round. The main issue is to keep enough oxygen in the water for the fish. In any event with your winters I would put in a waterfall bypass and return the water directly to the pond and not use the waterfall during the winter. Running water in the waterfall during the winter is a request for disaster. The water will gradually freeze and often will cause the water to escape the confines of the normal water column resulting in a drained pond and lost fish. 6: Just keep the pump running to keep the water oxygenated. 7: I am not an advocate of putting gravel in the bottom of a pond. It is a recipe for disaster if you have fish. All the fish waste gets in and under the gravel and it is very hard to keep it clean. This results in a layer of nasty bacteria beneath the gravel which will eventually be harmful, even fatal, to your fish. A gravel less bottom makes cleanup easy There are a lot of aquatic plants that will grow in your environment. you can use marginals and set them on the "steps" and maybe one hardy water lily in the deep or next step up. Floating plants do will in a pond as well. Of course this all depends on how much sun the pond will get. DO NOT use any "potting soil" in the pond. You can plant most plants in pea gravel and they will do fine. Some people use regular old clay soil with nothing added but I find that the fish like to dig in it and then it gets all over the place and the plants end up floating out of the pots. I'm sure you will get lots of good advise from the users of this forum. everyone here is very helpful and knowledgeable. Best wishes on your journey into ponding....See MoreSick Plumeria Cutting - advice needed
Comments (5)OK, the pictures are good. I would definitely pull the cutting to look at the stem below soil level. If there is rot, cut back to white wood, let it sit in the dark for a week or so, wet the stem end and add Rootone or other rooting/cloning compound with fungicide, repot and water once. Another test you could also do is to use a pin and puncture the branches to see if latex flows from the hole. If so, the branch is still alive. If not, it may be dead. The white, pithy stuff at the tips is the core of the branch. The presence of bugs in the core is not a good sign. I would recut the tips to white wood, but at a 45* angle. Then apply a layer of latex caulk to seal the cut end. This will keep water and bugs out of the tips. Since you have no growth tips on the plant, it is essentially a "center" cutting, and will take longer to root and produce leaves. Be patient. You won't get claws on this plant since it has no tips. New growth will appear at the sides of the cut tips. Look for small "bumps" anywhere from the tip down about an inch or two at an old leaf scar. This will tell you the plant is recovering and should survive. I would clear the pea gravel away from the stem so it doesn't touch the stem. The gravel can get hot in the sun and burn the stem, killing the plant. If the soil gets very dry, you can dig a moat around the edge of the pot and add a little water around the edge, staying away from the stem itself. What you are trying to do is add moisture without getting the stem wet. Good Luck. Let us know what happens....See Moreall plants dying...help plz
Comments (1)Not dying yet. A bit spindly -- need more light. Yellow lower leaves often indicates low nitrogen. Have you fertilized? If so, with what, at what strength, and when?...See Moretomato plant problems - need help plz
Comments (3)If you use organic fertilizers they are not as likely to burn your plants as chemical fertilizers are Sorry to disagree but it is just as easy to OVER-fertilize with organics as it is with synthetics. tobaira - watering once a day is far too much water and your plants are showing the effects of excessive watering, poor drainage, and being root-bound. The end result is root death. Plus there are some signs of excessive nutrient burn as well. I also hope there are drain holes in those cups? It doesn't ake a special set up to bottom water - just set the cups in a couple of inches of water in the sink for 30 mins. or so. Top soil in a small container compacts and doesn't drain well so retains all that water, manure burns, and top watering creates shallow roots that die off quickly. I would re-pot those plants into larger cups with drain holes and shake off as much of the existing soil as possible when doing it. Put them in potting mix, not homemade soil. Cut back on watering by at least half. You will lose some of those leaves but the new growth should be good. Hope this helps. Dave...See More
mystearica
8 years ago
Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
8 years ago
phalanx_viridis
8 years agomystearica
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoHeya,
So I think I'm obsessed - I check my plumeria on a
daily basis. So far the "Rose
Red" plumeria – no damage has spread – it still feels "soft-ish"
(the main stem) as it did to begin with but otherwise no change. The other soft one (from initial post) Kimi
Jr is still soft and turning brown-ish – assuming that one won't make it but
fingers crossed.On another note… I'm confused – my Charlotte Ebert
has leaves! I think… when I initially
got it, there were remnants of leaves (you know part of the cutting) – so when I
would check daily I figured whatever those will just dry out. But I have been noticing for the past WEEK
the leaves are growing bigger in size.
Now one is starting to open!!!
How is that possible??? That
would mean it rooted a little under two weeks after it was planted? I thought they need 8 weeks… my other
plumeria have nothing yet (obviously)So I am worried - typically if something is too
good to be true – it usually is. Did it
root or not? Is this a good thing? Should I fertilize now lol.Advice please!!!
Sorry photos are awful! Cell doesn't take great photos (also doesn't help I took them before work when it's still dark) - I can take better ones with my camera when I get home - was too anxious to post here first
Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
8 years agomystearica
8 years agoThanks for all your responses
@Dave - problem is - I used 1 gallon clear pots - so I may not see the roots until well after they have developed
@Mike - is that still possible even if I didn't plan the Plumeria until 4 weeks later?
I noticed my Kevin's Red and Kimi Morange Jr have a leaf there that wasn't - it's red and small we'll see
@Charlotte Ebert (see pictures below) from yesterday - after a few days quite a few leaves have showed up and opened up. I'm gonna assume they have rooted right? Should I fertilize now? I have Nutricote and Osmocote (both delayed release) - not sure which to use. Guessing I'll have to play the same water trick of watering infrequently 1-3 times (less frequent in winter)/week based on soil levels
Photos - not the best quality. What do you guys think?mike_in_maryland
8 years ago
Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A