Trees For Very Poor Soil
viper114
8 years ago
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edlincoln
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoHuggorm
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Plants for poor soil?
Comments (4)Initially I would have said the whole area gets full sun. But after 2 years of having plants there I would have to say that one side gets full sun and the other gets less than full sun. But I wouldn't say the area is shady. The only reason I noticed that it gets less sun is because all the plants on that side are smaller, so I really started watching. As far as the tree trunk goes, I did not have it ground down. However, the tree was taken down 4 or 5 years ago. There is no visable trunk. Just some underground roots. I would think that by now they are totally dead, but who knows....See Moreshade trees for very dry soil
Comments (3)I've got dry, sandy soil and the dominant native deciduous tree is Northern Pin Oak (Quercus ellipsoidalis). Its relatively fast growing (about 2'/year can be expected) and has nice fall color. I'd also be inclinded to try Honeylocust (Skyline would be a good choice). Again, fast growth, nice form, and good fall color. A couple of others to consider are Catalpa and Hackberry (Celtis). If its an extremely difficult site, and you're not concerned with thorns (or neighbors scorn), you might consider Black locust (Robinia). It will love these conditions, and proceed to spread its love all over. If you want this slope covered quickly, this one would do the job for you. It does have lovely fragrant flowers, but should be used as a last resort. Good luck! Bob...See MoreWhat to do with poor quality soil in front yard?
Comments (6)If there is indeed a layer of compacted gravel under where the pavers were, I agree you'd want to remove that. Quickest way would be a dozer to scrape soil off and stockpile, then remove the gravel and dispose, then put the soil back. Once that soil is all broken up, they could use something like a landscape rake to pull out bricks and rocks. Now, if the debris is really bad, you could have topsoil hauled in, but it comes down to the cost of remediating the soil you have vs. paying to haul it off plus paying for new topsoil and the hauling and labor to put it down. Contractors can tell you the best way to go. If you stick with the soil you have and clean it up a bit, then bring in some loads of compost to mix into it as the final step. That would also bring the grade back up and compensate for whatever is removed during the cleanup. Get more than one estimate if you're paying to have it done....See MoreImproving very acidic soil, with fruit trees showing deficiencies
Comments (11)Were I in your shoes I would contact Agriculture-Victoria for more information about your soil, as well as look more closely at what I had. Soil pH is important since it does determine the availability of nutrients, so a good reliable soil test is needed. If the soils in your area are normally alkaline and yours tested acidic there is something wrong with the test. How much organic matter is in the soil? How well does the soil drain? What does the soil smell like? What kind of life is in the soil? In addition to a good reliable soil test for soil pH and nutrient levels perhaps these simple soil tests may be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. kimmq is kimmsr...See Moregardener365
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
8 years agoviper114
8 years agorgreen48
8 years agoedlincoln
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agoedlincoln
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agoedlincoln
8 years agoviper114
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoedlincoln
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agocorkball (z9 FL)
8 years agowisconsitom
8 years agoHuggorm
8 years agocorkball (z9 FL)
8 years ago
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