You can find better pre-emergents at suppliers like John Deere/ Lesco (they've merged) than the home improvement stores. I agree with dchall, in my own findings granular pre-emergents don't perform as well as the liquid. The field testing that that the manufacturers site (so take that with a grain of salt) suggest that they perform about the same. If you're after grassy weeds, such as crabgrass, dimension is a great pre-em. If you're seeing a lot of both grassy and broadleaf, Prodiamine is a good alternative. The advantage with Prodiamine is that it is much cheaper to manufacture and has a number of generic versions. The 2-4D that Dchall mentioned is definitely a safe alternative in cool-season grasses for broadleaf weeds. Another, if you have trouble with crabgrass this season is Quinclorac. Quinclorac has the major advantage of being safe on Fescue even when it has just been seeded. To my knowledge it is the only herbicide that can boast that. If you mix it with a methylated seed oil, you have a good crabgrass control. The only odd exception is crabgrass that is in the intermediate stage, between newly emerged and mature quinclorac won't give any control during this period. As for the bright green grass, it isn't uncommon when you've been seeding so see color differences. Tiemco is correct about KBG being a dark green when it matures. There is a definite possibility that what you've seeded has come up much darker than what was there before. I ran across this today with a Fescue lawn that I seeded last Fall. The cheaper Fescue that was in the lawn looked much brighter than the cultivars that I used which included Speedway, Davinci and Blackwatch. So it's entirely possible, that the brighter colored grass was a lower quality Fescue, such as K31 that was there before. All the same, make sure that you don't over-do the seeding, which can lead to over-crowding and cause die-back or pythium blight in the up-coming months. Also, it's good to use a blend. There are a number of improved varieties of both bluegrass and fescue on the market today, which offer advantages over the older cultivars. For example, you can buy a mix of thermal blue, which is 10% bluegrass and the other 90% is made up of 3 different Fescue cultivars. It's highly drought tolerant and disease resistant. Either way, good luck and thanks for sharpening our skills with your question.

Interesting article thanks for posting. I've been wondering about sugaring my lawn and garden for some time. Tried it in one place and the following year got a rare mushroom called a phallus on the spot - coincidence? I wanted to quickly build my sometimes sandy sometimes calcified clay into a living soil and thought of the dark soil under the wild apple trees. This story reveals what the sugar is actually doing. I thought sugar would increase nitrogen and humus. That it would indirectly feed the worms but I worried about a yeasty over bloom. At one pound per yard without damage I see I can be very generous with the sugar. It strikes me as very useful. The microorganisms that fix nitrogen do so best in a low nitrogen environment. Therefore soil once treated can help nitrogen fixing plants and their fellow bacteria get back to work sequestering carbon. For myself I think I will try sweeting some compost tea + nitrogen because I want to get life deep into my ground. The real down side is sugar is the energy and inputs and subsidies that went into producing and transporting it. As far as weeds go - its the grass that is the weed. I have a grass that grows roots down more than a foot and infiltrates my perennials. With the exception of dandelions I like all the broad leaf plants in my lawn: johny jump ups, lupin, clover and crocus please.

here is my 2 cents worth... first, annual weeds takeover ALL new plantings, thats the way momnature works. but the solution is right in the name, annual. mow so no seedheads form and ull never have a problem with them. infact, a local dnr guy calls annual weeds a nurse crop vs a prairie seeding in the correct soils. prairies are long distance runners vs annual sprinters, they will run outta gas sooner or later... as to Plateau, im not convinced. i have a testplot that i drive by atleast 2-3 times a week. the area definately looks more 'grassy' 3 years into the program. im not convinced that Plateau is an answer and this test plot isnt helping the opinion. imho, if its not a perennial, dont sweat it. froggy

You applied broad leaf "weed" poisons to a grass and those will not kill grasses. What will kill grasses are grass poisons, but they will also harm your Bermuda.